Tom's Offroad Trail Terminator linkage

[steelworker77]

Anyone running this setup have any opinions on it. I am installing now as TRO and just wandering about the extra added stress on the passenger side from the drag link.

Not sure if I will need them or not but the knuckles were slightly wallowed out and the 3/4" bit did completely clean it up. I want to get it all bolted together and tightened up and see if causes any play at all.

Is there a source for sleeves/inserts for a straight through 3/4" hole with no taper? If not thinking I could have some made at the local machine shop but wasnt sure how thick they would need to be as well as best material to make them out of.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77...aEfbysnm8MbzJ3vc1Iu0ko-G-5PnFOPBoCv58QAvD_BwE

 

[1969miller]

The knuckle will be fine with the drag link mounted there, the tapered holes on a Dana 44 are a hair larger than 3/4 at the largest point, so probably not wallowed out just normal. Sleeving it can be done by drilling a 1" hole and inserting a piece of 1"x.120 wall DOM tube, which will have a 3/4" ID. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2165.html

Switching to a crossover style steering may result in some bump steer since the drag link and track bar are now different lengths.

Good luck with your install!

 

[Apogee]

I'm currently installing a GM TRE setup from Ruff Stuff, and they have a bushing for the pitman arm that is flanged that would be simple to modify for a Ø.75" through hole, given that it's at about Ø.77" on the large end already. A lathe and either a drill bit or a boring bar and you could be done in minutes. The flange gives you the ability to easily TIG or MIG weld it into place once the pitman arm or knuckle has been oversized to match the Ø1" OD.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1589.html

FWIW, I used their split sleeves at the knuckles on mine since I have the TRE's, and those required machining as well, otherwise I couldn't get the cotter pins through the castle nuts. It was either counterbore the knuckles so that the sleeves dropped through further, or cut down the castle nuts, and while the latter would have been easier/quicker, I was concerned about the strength of the nut once done and chose to modify the knuckle instead. Since you'll have through bolts with nuts, you shouldn't have that issue.

Tobin

 

[steelworker77]

I actually just talked to the machine shop and I am going to drop them the bolt off tomorrow so they can just make me a sleeve that is tight enough to have to tap the bolt through. I know when I mic'd them they were slightly under.

For the people that went with the 3/4" bolt route over the tapered stud what is everyone doing about the slight oversize at the knuckle from the original taper?
Is everyone just sleeving them or installing and calling good?

 

[Yeller]

Most are drilling them out and calling it good. I weld a Safety Washer to the knuckle, they are cast steel and weld fine. It resolves the potential weak spot, adds bearing surface for the bolt and tightens up the clearances nicely. Also provides for enough misalignment of the hiem joint to not bind against the knuckle as the steering cycles. I’m assuming they are shipping something similar with the steering kit, I did not look.

 

[steelworker77]

Most are drilling them out and calling it good. I weld a Safety Washer to the knuckle, they are cast steel and weld fine. It resolves the potential weak spot, adds bearing surface for the bolt and tightens up the clearances nicely. Also provides for enough misalignment of the hiem joint to not bind against the knuckle as the steering cycles. I’m assuming they are shipping something similar with the steering kit, I did not look.

Here are there instructions which I was able to find on there site.

https://tomsoffroad.com/resources/heim-joint-steering-linkage-hd-knuckle-over-conversion/

They do have a bushing against the bottom of the pitman arm but as far the knuckles go they are bolting the heims directly on the knuckle. I did order some delrin heim joint spacers from Duffs hoping that may help that issue after I looked at the diagram.

https://dufftuff.com/product/heim-joint-delrin-spacers/

I may try the safety washer idea rather than redrilling and sleeving it. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Shimmy]

those delrin spacers may be key. I ran a similar setup to this (BulletProof Steering) on my Jeep with no issues. I did have to use some small spacers on the knuckle heims to allow articulation

see the clearance shims here

http://bulletproofsteering.com/components.html

 

[Yeller]

Your welcome. I have a bunch of them out there that way. I’m surprised to see the lack of any kind of spacer between the knuckle and joint, doesn’t take much, but I’ve always needed something to keep it from making a bind. Doesn’t take much but I’ve always needed at least 1/16 - 3/32” for everything to clear through the steering cycle.