Tons of questions.....I'm looking for opinions

[kealonnix]

Hey Guys, First post here.

I bought a 77 last year and am getting ready to begin restoring (the question is how far do I want to go) There is very little rust, only on the lower door panels. I'm wanting something that I'm not afraid to drive and play with. Thats why I'm leaning towards NOT doing a frame off. My dad has done 3 frame offs on classic trucks, so we can do it if we decide to.

Now for the questions:

1) My gas gauge (put in new sending units), temperature gauge, alternator gauge does not work. I'm probably going to get the Centech wiring harness. That should take care of the problems right?

2) I have what looks to be the Vintage Air kit. How will that work with the Centech wiring harness?

3) I think I'm going to go with bed liner instead of the carpet, but I currently have tons of heat (cooks my feet down here in South Georgia). I know that I have a bunch of drilled holes in firewall and trans hump. Once I repair the holes, do you think the heat will be manageable?

4) What is the cheapest route to make those pesky vent windows back to snuff? It looks like I will need most of the parts. Didn't know if somebody sold a complete kit.

5) With the rust on the lower door panels, would you get a complete door skin, or just the lower panels?

6) Now for the important question: What color? I was thinking of painting it a charcoal gray, but I want to keep the white top (the white is the epitome of a classic Bronco in my opinion). First of all, do you think that will look ok? And if so, what color to do the fender flares?
**I haven't seen a pic of an EB with this color combo. If you guys have seen one, please send me the link.


Thats all I can think of for now, but I'm sure there will be more. Thank you guys in advance for the help.

 

[sprdv1]

Hey Guys, First post here.

I bought a 77 last year and am getting ready to begin restoring (the question is how far do I want to go) There is very little rust, only on the lower door panels. I'm wanting something that I'm not afraid to drive and play with. Thats why I'm leaning towards NOT doing a frame off. My dad has done 3 frame offs on classic trucks, so we can do it if we decide to.

6) Now for the important question: What color? I was thinking of painting it a charcoal gray, but I want to keep the white top (the white is the epitome of a classic Bronco in my opinion). First of all, do you think that will look ok? And if so, what color to do the fender flares?
**I haven't seen a pic of an EB with this color combo. If you guys have seen one, please send me the link.

WELCOME to the site, That color combo would look good..! You are referring to Wimbledon White

 

[73AnneBoleyn]

I can only help answer #6. I haven't seen a charcoal gray, but mine is a black (well, actually it's more of a gray, since I have to put another couple of coats on it) with the white hardtop. I painted the fender flares black and she's got the black wheels to boot. I did some very sloppy photoshopping to look at her with white flares, and I liked it. HTH

 

[tk1218]

On question 1, I would see if a voltage regulator fixes your problem before you go to the expense of a harness.

 

[broncodriver99]

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Instrument_Cluster_Voltage_Regulator/Dash_Parts

This is mounted to the back of the instrument cluster. Check and make sure it is hooked up and working.

The heat should dissipate a little once you get the firewall and trans tunnel sealed up. Is your firewall insulation still in tact? Broncos are know for being a little warm on the feet anyway.

 

[70_Steve]

1) My gas gauge (put in new sending units), temperature gauge, alternator gauge does not work. I'm probably going to get the Centech wiring harness. That should take care of the problems right?

The fuel level, engine temp and oil pressure gauges are all powered by an Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR). If one of those gauges is working, then the IVR is not at fault. The stock IVR produces a pulsed voltage. If you measure with an analog meter, you should see the needle bouncing from 3 to about 7-8 volts, about twice a second. With a digital meter, the numbers will be all over the place, from between 0.5 and 10.5 volts.

Since you said "new sending units" I will assume you have dual tanks, with a dash switch. The switches are a likely problem source. Look for the voltage I described as the output of the IVR, at the sending units. That also goes for the Temp sending unit. If you see that pulsing voltage at the sending unit, there's a good chance the sending unit is bad.

The Ammeter is independent of the other gauges. It works by induction, on a loop from the alternator to the battery. If the alternator has been upgraded to a higher output one, then it would make sense that this loop has been eliminated, since the stock wiring would barely carry the stock 55 amps.

 

[kealonnix]

Thanks for replies

Guys, thanks so much for the replies. I haven't had a chance yet to put a voltmeter on the gauges yet. I did look a little closer today though. The oil pressure gauge seems to be working, the temp gauge just hangs out around 120 degrees (i know it's hotter than this), gas gauge is dead, and voltage gauge is dead.

After I replaced the sending units, the gas gauge worked for approximately one day.

Taking all of this into account, do you think it is some faulty wiring somewhere along the line?

 

[Green76]

My guages are reading the exact same, temp right at 120 degrees, oil pressure anywhere from 40 to 90 pounds, gas gauge dead! I'm going to run a ground strap from my firewall to frame (or firewall to engine?)and see if this helps. I'm thinking about anchoring it on the drivers side firewall to the head. I already have a ground strap from the battery to head, head to frame.