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Top rebuild; new ribs, insulation & headliner

OP
OP
Whoaa

Whoaa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
1,059
And this reminds me that we forgot to give you a couple of hips and a hooray for your 1-year anniversary!
Carry on!

Paul

Thank you Mr. Donk!

You are a great ambassador for this website and the entire Bronco community! For a long time I have noticed that you're always friendly to new comers (usually first w/ a welcome greeting) and very generous with your time. (you also happen to be a talented writer) Your commitment and depth of detailed technical information is of great value to all of us, thank you.

It is amazing to me what a wealth of information this website is. And not only does it provide an opportunity for all Bronco folks to share information, but also an opportunity to build relationships and a level of fun/enjoyment.
Not to get too long winded or philosophical, but I do believe that for most of us old Bronco's represent something "fun". A fun hobby, a fun passion, fun to talk about, fun to work on, good times in the outdoors w/ a capable off road rig, ct, ect, ect...
 

jhughes4

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Las Vegas, NV
Pictures of headliner

Here is the final picture of mine, all the previous pictures looks like yours with the insulation, etc.
thanks again!
 

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OP
OP
Whoaa

Whoaa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
1,059
^...that looks great!

The insulation works both ways, it insulates from heat or cold. Based on the location in your avatar it looks like you're in the desert. I live in the arctic...but we just sold our winter house in Henderson NV.

Anyway, this is the first winter I've had the insulated top in use. It sure is nice to turn the heater & blower down and still not having any window fogging.

Now I've got a rattle from the top hatch door, striker plate. I have never liked this metal-on-metal striker plate and latch plunger. Currently I'm working on a new striker plate made from UHMW (UHMW is used for cutting boards, and commonly used where I live for airplane door latches, the bottom of airplane ski's, and the bottom of air boats -which allows use over dry land) that will never rattle. Plus in the design feature it'll have some adjustment.
 

kip60

Full Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2015
Messages
238
Whoaa,
You do fine work. Thank you for posting such an informational sequence. My brother in law owns a body shop. He says there is a metal panel glue that is actually made to bond auto body parts together and would probably hold up better than the liquid nails. (But probably not as easy to get as Liquid Nails in Alaska!) I agree this site is a very good depository of information and full of people like yourself that have experience with different tools, metals and thought processes, but seem to get similar end results. Keep up the good work. Must have a good shop up north to work in the cold months.
 

jhughes4

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Las Vegas, NV
Thanks, I'll put the top on this weekend for the first time in awhile! Keep posting your new fabrications, you do great work.
 
OP
OP
Whoaa

Whoaa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
1,059
Whoaa,
My brother in law owns a body shop. He says there is a metal panel glue that is actually made to bond auto body parts together and would probably hold up better than the liquid nails.

^...I agree, and thank you.

If I would have known then, what I know I now, I would have used the body panel adhesive for the ribs to the top sheet metal skin. That said, I did fill the channel around the top with some body panel adhesive ...of course this was after I "learned" of this product, which was after I turned the top back over and was prepping it for paint.

Almost all of the body panels today proffesionally installed by trained technicians are "glued" in place w/ a special pookey specifically made for that job.
 

surfer-b

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
2,974
(UHMW is used for cutting boards,

That is what I did on my 76. I did it bout 5~6 yrs ago, it stops all that rattle the liftgate makes when driving over rough ground and closes/latches much more solid, also when making the pieces you can cut to the thickness that is needed so the gate has no side to side movement. Here are a few pics.
I also used heat shrink tubing on the latch rods which stopped all the rattles they were making. All these little things add up to make a much more quieter and more enjoyable ride.
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,105
Thank you Mr. Donk!...

Thanks Whoaa. Kind words indeed.
And remember too, that all my words are written through a cloud of jealousy every time you posted more pics of your beautiful truck!;);D

Glad this thread about the headliner was brought back up. Made me remember I've been wanting to add bracing for years. At least since I heard the first tin-canning of a buddy's '72, and I realized I'd never be able to hang out up on the roof at the beach or watch races from on-high with camera, or sleep up there to get off the ground.
Rats....

Hence my desire for an exo-cage now!

Keep enjoying that ride of yours.

Paul
 

MikeCon

Full Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
276
Know this is old thread but let's give it a try.
Can I brace roof with 3/4 aluminum instead of steel? Would it be rigid enough?
Also,why not use metal binder instead of welding?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,105
I think you can use just about anything you can work with. What you suggest should be more than strong enough, but the issue with unusual materials is whether or not you want all the other stuff to fit. Such as a headliner might not attach to the top bows properly at that thickness in the middle.
Or maybe the factory bows do stick down 3/4" anyway? I haven't looked at one in a long time so maybe it's just the right thing.

Basically though, I don't see why you could not just use whatever you're comfortable with and can be attached.
As far as gluing vs welding, I think that's what most do anyway at least at different points. Gluing and screwing down at the ends seems reasonable. And panel adhesives are how entire bodies are held together sometimes.
If you have a welder there's nothing that says you can't add a couple of tack welds in place of where the factory would have spot welded it, but if metal binder (not a term I'm familiar with) is the same thing as an adhesive, should work fine.

And frankly, with 3/4" tubing you could add as many as you want too, I would think.
This gives you the opportunity to really beef it up.
Just don't overlook the fitment of other things like the headliner and chrome trim.

Paul
 
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