Towing a Bronco?

[Blue71]

Need to get tow my Bronco to a destination about 100 miles away by towing it on a dolly behind my other vehicle. You know, one of those 2 wheel dolly's that you pull the front up on and strap the tires down good. The Bronco is an automatic. Do I need to pull it in "N"? Undo the rear drive shaft? What is the best way to keep it rollin' without wear and tear on drivetrain?<br><br>Thanks much,<br><br>Blue71

 

[ford67bronco]

It's best to pull the driveshaft off.

 

[broncobsession]

I've towed 4 times now with an EB on a tow dolly, once all the way from Mississippi to Texas and once from North Oklahoma to Texas. Each time all I did was to pull the rear driveshaft and lube up the 9". I also put vise grips on the steering column right by the box to keep it from steering itself to much. All the ones I've towed were manual, but I'm sure you'd be fine by just throwing it in Neutral.<br><br>Check all your bolts on the vital suspension stuff and make sure the tailgate and hood are closed very well.

 

[huged29]

Couldn't you just put the rear wheels up on the dolly and unlock the front hubs, or does it not fit on the dolly like that?

 

[rednck21]

neutral would probably be ok but if it were me id take the driveshaft out at least take it loose from the 9in yoke and bungee or zip tie it to the frame.

 

[Rustytruck]

I tow mine on a dolly backwards and cross strap the Knuckles to the frame leave the hubs unlocked and go. No wear and tear.

 

[BwoncoHowie]

Trust me, I know the answer to this... First of all I have been a Transmission Rebuilder since 1978 just to give you an idea of my background, I have logged over 400 C-4 rebuilds.<br><br>If you need to tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground, please please remove the rear driveshaft.<br><br>If you put your rear wheels up on the dolly and choose to tow it with your front tires rolling then driveshaft removal won't be necessary, but make certain that your hubs are UNLOCKED.<br><br>You will be just fine either way.<br><br>BH

 

[rednck21]

should the driveshaft be removed when towing a manual also ??

 

[Explore74]

Howie is ABSOLUTELY correct. The auto depends on the engine to turn it's pump and without the pump turning, you would burn that bad boy down.

 

[71pony]

Put it on backwards Lock the knuckles and free the hubs. You are ready to roll.

 

[chuck]

Auto or manual, howie is right. Even if you put the T-case in N and the trans in gear/park the output <br>shaft bearings will not got lubed.

 

[BwoncoHowie]

Another $0.02 worth<br>In a pinch,<br>Let's say you are broke down and need a tow back to camp, lets say 5 mi. You have no tools to remove your driveshaft. The following is the only circumstance I would tow my own rig with the driveshafts still in it.<br><br>Auto trans in (P) or manual trans in (gear).<br>Transfer case in (neutral).<br>Hubs (locked)<br><br>What this will do is spin your front and rear drive flanges enough to splash lube the dana 20, since your transmission is inactive there will be no wear and tear on it. This method is not recommended at speeds faster than 25 mph or distances greater than 10 miles.<br><br>BH

 

[Jeepster]

[quote author=huged29 link=board=5;threadid=12432;start=0#92494 date=1040190785]<br>Couldn't you just put the rear wheels up on the dolly and unlock the front hubs, or does it not fit on the dolly like that?<br>[/quote]<br><br>Thats how I towed my home when I bought it. On the hook backward with the hubs unlocked. Worked well.

 

[Blue71]

Thanks for all of the helpful replies. You guys more than answered my question. Now its just a matter of getting it there.<br><br>Thanks much,<br><br>Blue71

 

[Jeepster]

[quote author=jeepster link=board=5;threadid=12432;start=0#93035 date=1040341128]<br>[quote author=huged29 link=board=5;threadid=12432;start=0#92494 date=1040190785]<br>Couldn't you just put the rear wheels up on the dolly and unlock the front hubs, or does it not fit on the dolly like that?<br>[/quote]<br><br>Thats how I towed my home when I bought it. On the hook backward with the hubs unlocked. Worked well.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Did I mention to tie the wheel down?

 

[dhfastback]

If Im flat towing my automatic with the driveshaft out, do I put T-case in neutral and tranny in what gear? Do I need to lock the hubs and why?

 

[72Sport]

I have been doing bad things. Now you have me worried. I bought my 72 in 95. I have always flat towed it with the driveshafts connected. Transmission and transfer case in neutral hubs unlocked. My guess is about 10k miles total (almost as much as I have on my creeper). One trip was up I-5 from So Cal to Lake Tahoe and down 395. Another trip was out I-40 to Flagstaff down to Phoenix and back to Los Angeles area.<br>Except for the hills it was always 60mph or more.<br><br>I was trained by two other Bronco owners who bought their 72 and 73 new. They have flat towed theirs also since the mid 70's same as above and never worked on their transfer cases. I have ridden in both of them from time to time and they are quiet as new.<br><br>I had my transfer case apart a year or two ago. It was like new. I wasted my money by putting new bearings in it.<br><br>The 1972 Ford Truck Manual Part 5 says don't do what the three of us have been doing. I would not advise any one else to do what I have been doing. Maybe mister Valvoline has been looking out for me and couple friends. <br><br>Maybe I will have to go to full floating rear axles and sleep nights.

 

[67ster]

We've been doing it all wrong for close to 30 years , trans and t-case are still OK . though . As far as an automatic , when it's in park , nothing turns on the output shaft , the parking gear is holding it . I can say the idea of locking in the hubs does sound like a good idea to make sure everything is staying lubed , I'll try that the next time . SOME tow dollies won't work correctly if you tow backwards because they don't swivel .