tranny questions

[hewie73]

I just picked up this tranny/adpt/t-case combo. The bellhousing looks different than the one on my 302/c-4 combo. What do i have?

 

[Broncobowsher]

That looks like a C4 for a small block to me. Someone put WAY too much time into making that pretty. I can't imagine spending the time to polish the bellhousing like that. The paint is pretty trick as well.

As for the bellhousing, I remember 2 styles. Broncohowie will probably correct me but I will try anyway. The step and the flare (or is it bell?). It shouldn't matter. Just need to find out if the bellhousing is for the big or small flexplate and get the correct flexplate for the starter to engage.

 

[Mherriford]

It is definatly pretty, musta taken somebody a long time!

 

[hewie73]

The Bellhousing is ceramic coated. The c-4 housing/adapt/d20 is powder coated. I just want to make sure this thing is going to work with a 99 exploder motor

 

[hewie73]

Broncobowsher, did i read in the archives that u have done the explorer motor conversion. If this tranny is a step in the right direction i will procede with the 46,000 mile exploder motor i picked up last week. $700.00 for the motor isnt bad is it.

 

[howiebilt]

I don't think that tranny and t-case will fit your application ...I will get rid of it for you and you can delete this post before anyone else reads it and gives you a hard time about it ;D ;D ;D ;D










Howiebilt/Kamikaze4X4/SuperFlyMonkey

 

[Broncobowsher]

Broncobowsher, did i read in the archives that u have done the explorer motor conversion. If this tranny is a step in the right direction i will procede with the 46,000 mile exploder motor i picked up last week. $700.00 for the motor isnt bad is it.

I don't have an Explorer motor. I have the Explorer transmission. I also have the front dress of an Explorer sitting in a box for later instalation.

I do have an Explorer transmission, another one, and engine (sort of) installed in a Ranger. Actually it was a Mustang engine but nothing of the engine is stock except the block. But it does run an Explorer intake and front dress. And a third vehicle donated the fuel injection for the mix.

Now that we have my Explorer parts house straightened up...
That transmission should bolt right to the Explorer motor. There should be a block plate (piece of sheetmetal the pattern of the bellhousing) that goes between the two. The Explorer flexplate should work, if the bellhousing is the large version. I believe the ribs were only used on the big one so you should be good. The last thing was some of the Broncos used the odd torque convertor with the small bolt circle. If you have that (10.xx" vs. 11.xx") then ditch the odd convertor and put a normal big pattern convertor in there.

 

[hewie73]

details of my score

I probably should have started with this post/pic to see if you gurus approve.
coan torque conv setup specifically for bronco application
coil spring buckets
rebuilt trans (kevlar bands,redline clutches, mild shift kit, work done by reputable shop, never run)
wild horses d-20 extreme duty output shaft kit (never used)
Wild horses twin stick kit (in box)
used Tshift case
rebuilt t-case
intermediate housing
dropped pitman arm
plus coating everything
spare c-4 housing

 

[Broncobowsher]

Did the transfer case have the internal modifications to allow the twin stick to work to it's full potential? That is extras clearances put in the shift rails or pill removal?

Looks like you will have everything set up before you install it. I think you will e fine. Put it all together, make sure the starter engages correctly and you will be ready to drop the package in.

 

[hewie73]

havent checked t-case yet, just got it yesterday. I did have my finger on the panick button. You know how it goes when you buy something used. I will have everything checked out before install.


by the way i've yet to make a formal introduction to the masses here. I feel i should since im basing my entire build on this site.

here is a hint: explorer motor w/aluminum heads(so i can reuse the L&L headers), tranny i just bought, sand blast frame, coat frame, the tub was just rebuilt(all but about 6 factory panels were replaced), tub is @ body shop now, picked up all required mustang stuff to wire, i think i have a good start.
thanks guys

 

[Dirtyboy]

Take the extra time to check and make sure they installed a deep sump tranny filter. I made the mistake and seized my new rebuilt tranny taking someones word for it...otherwise looks great and like the size of your wallet! lol

 

[garberz]

Did the transfer case have the internal modifications to allow the twin stick to work to it's full potential? That is extras clearances put in the shift rails or pill removal?

Looks like you will have everything set up before you install it. I think you will e fine. Put it all together, make sure the starter engages correctly and you will be ready to drop the package in.

I'm doing a twin stick right now, I have the tranny and T-case out. What are the internal mods? What do you mean by full potential?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I'm doing a twin stick right now, I have the tranny and T-case out. What are the internal mods? What do you mean by full potential?

With the T-shift transfer case the front axle cann't be engaged unless the rear axle is already in that range. So you can't put the transfer case in front only and leave the rear in neutral.

By going inside the transfer case and doctoring the shift rails or pills, you can disrupt the interlock and allow the front axle to shift indipendently of the rear. Without doing such modifications the twin stick (functionally at least) will behave no differently and give no other powerflow options then a single sticked T-shift transfer case.

Never delt with J-shift but apparently they do benifit more from twin sticking without going inside.

 

[garberz]

With the T-shift transfer case the front axle cann't be engaged unless the rear axle is already in that range. So you can't put the transfer case in front only and leave the rear in neutral.

By going inside the transfer case and doctoring the shift rails or pills, you can disrupt the interlock and allow the front axle to shift indipendently of the rear. Without doing such modifications the twin stick (functionally at least) will behave no differently and give no other powerflow options then a single sticked T-shift transfer case.

Never delt with J-shift but apparently they do benifit more from twin sticking without going inside.

Thanks Broncobowsher,
I have the J-shift, with slight modifications to the shift rails(externally),the front and rear axles engage independently from each other,as well as hi and lo range.
I haven't done a T-shift before, So it sounds a little more involved to get the same result.