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Turn Signal Canceller for Ididit Column?

fordguy

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Jan 23, 2005
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I have the bronco specific column. I missed the cam in my install. See pic attached? Do I use roll pins or is there a specific cam? No clue in MS lol.
 

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904Bronco

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San Martin, CA
You need to install the two roller pins... sometimes I have had to buy longer ones from the hardware store and then shorten them once installed.
Depends on the adapter for the steering wheel purchased...

I also place "a little" die-electric grease on the pins and plastic arms of the switch for lubrication. A little on the horn contact pin doesn't hurt either...
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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You need to install the two roller pins... sometimes I have had to buy longer ones from the hardware store and then shorten them once installed.
Depends on the adapter for the steering wheel purchased...

I also place "a little" die-electric grease on the pins and plastic arms of the switch for lubrication. A little on the horn contact pin doesn't hurt either...
Doug, so the roller pins are the cancel?
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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The ones local are either to big or small.
 

904Bronco

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Hillman (Ace hardware) are the long ones I cut down, loose one on the package is what has come with the wheel adapter...
 

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fordguy

fordguy

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Thinking of tapping it and put a stud in it. Do you remember approximate length?
 

Shimmy

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Maple Valley
Ididit scared me away from installing my pins. They said it’s the #1 part that’s replaced since the pins tend to snap off the plastic guides. I manually engage/disengage my blinkers
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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Ididit scared me away from installing my pins. They said it’s the #1 part that’s replaced since the pins tend to snap off the plastic guides. I manually engage/disengage my blinkers
That is a crying shame for the money they get. You are referring to the turn signal switch or the pins.
 

904Bronco

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Thinking of tapping it and put a stud in it. Do you remember approximate length?
Honestly no.

I pounded them in farther, to seat them better. Then it was a test fit, cutting things down as I go.

Regrettably, I am very familiar with the white plastic arms being snapped off by the roll pins...

I have, pounded the pins toward the center, bending them inward towards the steering shaft for better clearnces.
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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I have this combo.
 

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gnsteam

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Lincoln NE
Not trying to hijack the thread but I am having the same issue with the Forever Steering brand wheel sold through Tom’s Offroad.
a358d226-8482-4389-be4f-a067ab33113d-1_all_6336.jpg

After the install and test driving the Bronco for few miles. The wheel suddenly had a catch in it and broke loose. Today I pulled it apart and found one of the pins pulled out of the steering wheel hub mount. I was surprised to see the pin pulled with how tight they press in. And my pins where fully pressed into the holes. In this picture of the hub, you can see that the hole is elongated a little as well.
a358d226-8482-4389-be4f-a067ab33113d-1_all_6345.jpg

Obviously the pin is able to get behind the plastic cancel lever as you turn the wheel. It is a little hard to see in the picture of the cancel lever. The lever is gouged where the pin cam in contact on the back side of the lever.
a358d226-8482-4389-be4f-a067ab33113d-1_all_6344.jpg

I'm surprised that the lever didn't break. Until I can come up with a better solution than using the pins or as Fordguy suggested. A threaded in stud. I'm leaving them out and following Shimmy's practice.
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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I consider auto cancel a safety feature/convenience. I guess for now I will use the “shimmy” cancel method. Can I go to a different wheel/adapter that uses a stock cam?
 
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SLOWnEASY

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San Diego, Ca.
Am I'm seeing this correctly? If the area in red is where the cancel pin is contacting then something is seriously out of whack. I'm sure you are already aware, but the yellow circle I added is where the pin should contact. Can the switch be adjusted outward at all to get the contact where it belongs? Another thought, can you drill and relocate the roll pin holes?
 

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gnsteam

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Lincoln NE
Am I'm seeing this correctly? If the area in red is where the cancel pin is contacting then something is seriously out of whack. I'm sure you are already aware, but the yellow circle I added is where the pin should contact. Can the switch be adjusted outward at all to get the contact where it belongs? Another thought, can you drill and relocate the roll pin holes?
Hi SLOWnEASY, I want to reply to your question? But I'm going to need some more time to look at my situation again. Do to a family health situation, I haven't had any time to work on my Bronco. I will post a response to this thread as time permits. Thanks all.
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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I talked to Tom’s. They hav an option that uses stock cam and fits the ididit column. You have to modify (cut the ears) but I am willing to do that. I think they stopped using the pins. I want my self canceling signals. Didn’t pay attention first few times I drove it but people kept pulling out in front of me, figured out my turn signal was on.
 

gnsteam

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Lincoln NE
Hi SLOWnEASY, I want to reply to your question? But I'm going to need some more time to look at my situation again. Do to a family health situation, I haven't had any time to work on my Bronco. I will post a response to this thread as time permits. Thanks all.
I had some time to analyze the cancel feature on my stock column. As shown in your picture of the cancelation lever with the yellow circle. Yes this is the general area where the cancel pin should contact the lever, upon the return rotation of the steering wheel. And force the lever out away from the steering shaft. In my case the cancelation lever is closer to the steering shaft, in the left turn actuation than in the right turn actuation. So instead of pushing the lever outward on the left turn cancelation. The pin slipped behind the lever and forces the lever inward. This caused the steering wheel to lock up and consequently pulled the cancel pin out of the steering hub. Looking at the cancelation lever mechanism. I can see no way to adjust the levers mounting position on my column and I have tried. I got luck this time, that the lever didn't break when the wheel locked up. I'm still surprised that the cancelation pin was forced out of the hub. Tom's Offroad offers a cancelation cam for there aftermarket columns. So I reached out to them to see if it works with my steering wheel brand. If not, I have a solution that I will try.
 
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fordguy

fordguy

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I had some time to analyze the cancel feature on my stock column. As shown in your picture of the cancelation lever with the yellow circle. Yes this is the general area where the cancel pin should contact the lever, upon the return rotation of the steering wheel. And force the lever out away from the steering shaft. In my case the cancelation lever is closer to the steering shaft, in the left turn actuation than in the right turn actuation. So instead of pushing the lever outward on the left turn cancelation. The pin slipped behind the lever and forces the lever inward. This caused the steering wheel to lock up and consequently pulled the cancel pin out of the steering hub. Looking at the cancelation lever mechanism. I can see no way to adjust the levers mounting position on my column and I have tried. I got luck this time, that the lever didn't break when the wheel locked up. I'm still surprised that the cancelation pin was forced out of the hub. Tom's Offroad offers a cancelation cam for there aftermarket columns. So I reached out to them to see if it works with my steering wheel brand. If not, I have a solution that I will try.
I ordered a stock cam to try on my column but you have to remove part of the lever. Would like to see a pic of the cam you ordered.
 
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