Type F transmission fluid

[September 1972]

If a computer controlled tranny takes more than .4 second for the clutch pack to engage excessive clearance is usually the cause and the pressure will double to the actuator from 75 to 150 and shift hard. Changing fluid is a no no because a war tranny may shift great because it right on the edge of slipping but the old fluid aged gradually along with the transmission. In 110 degree weather driving in stop and go traffic the fluid can and does hit upwards to 300F and you may notice it shifts differently, baby it under these conditions. A cooler won't help much unless it's a condenser sized unit with a large fan with anti drain back valves, even then it might be 250F.

A black art to quiet and preserve hydraulic units is a shot of gear lube, just a couple of ounces and never change the fluid. Adding powered graphite is good if the clutches chatter but knowing how much is the black art that a good tranny guy knows.

Good tranny guys never change fluid but charge you for it because their knucklehead customers want it done and the factory recommends it. They cut the inline filters apart and add friction modifiers if the metal it produces is excessive, that's what they are in business for which is to keep the thing on the road. It takes longer than a fluid change but they know what will happen if they did change it, your tranny won't last and you won't go back or recommend them.

The warranty runs out at 36K and that's when the tranny is supposed to be serviced. The factory uses fluids that we can't get, it has heavy metals and all the good stuff to make the trans last 36K in case a lead foot customer is driving it.

Take it or leave it but it's the truth.

 

[bronconut73]

If a computer controlled tranny takes more than .4 second for the clutch pack to engage excessive clearance is usually the cause and the pressure will double to the actuator from 75 to 150 and shift hard. Changing fluid is a no no because a war tranny may shift great because it right on the edge of slipping but the old fluid aged gradually along with the transmission. In 110 degree weather driving in stop and go traffic the fluid can and does hit upwards to 300F and you may notice it shifts differently, baby it under these conditions. A cooler won't help much unless it's a condenser sized unit with a large fan with anti drain back valves, even then it might be 250F.

A black art to quiet and preserve hydraulic units is a shot of gear lube, just a couple of ounces and never change the fluid. Adding powered graphite is good if the clutches chatter but knowing how much is the black art that a good tranny guy knows.

Good tranny guys never change fluid but charge you for it because their knucklehead customers want it done and the factory recommends it. They cut the inline filters apart and add friction modifiers if the metal it produces is excessive, that's what they are in business for which is to keep the thing on the road. It takes longer than a fluid change but they know what will happen if they did change it, your tranny won't last and you won't go back or recommend them.

The warranty runs out at 36K and that's when the tranny is supposed to be serviced. The factory uses fluids that we can't get, it has heavy metals and all the good stuff to make the trans last 36K in case a lead foot customer is driving it.

Take it or leave it but it's the truth.

Gonna have to leave it Sir.

 

[September 1972]

Fair enough Sir.Bronconut73, I respect your position in the matter.

Just for yucks, find a transmission shop or otherwise find a tranny that has never been cracked open. The grime patina will be even across the pan and the body of the unit.

Ask the transmission guy to see one that is virgin and I'll bet he won't have one, the junkyards are full of them when the car is wrecked or head gasket blows or major electrical problems put them there.

If tranny guys said that tranny fluid should not be changed they would be out of business, advertising is more powerful than the truth sometimes.

 

[KyleQ]

MotorCraft, of course. Read this page:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrica...er+Steering+Fluid&category=Transmission FluidThat's like saying, "a truck is a truck." Bronco, Jeep, Suzuki - all the same, right? The Lincoln LS was built on the same platform as the Jaguar S-Type, so they're the same car. %)

Just because something "meets a specification" doesn't mean it's the same as the original. Even if it comes from the same factory - a factory can make one production run for this brand, and a very-different production run for that brand.It's probably good enough, but it's certainly not "the best" (as you originally asked). Most systems that use Type F are not so delicate that they'd perform noticeably worse with typical Type F, rather than MC.

I knew you would come in and cock this thread up with your over information %) Way to compare apples to oranges - then try and prove a point with an advertisement? Please....

Seriously - fluid is fluid, we are not chasing time slips or sending a rocket to Mars, we are looking at fluid to run in a transmission that is 40+ years old. When it comes down to brass tacks it really matters to get the correct API rated fluid for the job, spending 2-3x more on your favorite brand of fluid is your prerogative, but for 95% of people out there it doesn't matter.

 

[Steve83]

If you like being under-informed, then you don't have to read my posts. If you like putting brake fluid or kerosene into your transmission, I won't stop you. Fluid is fluid, right?

 

[bbow]

I run Mercon 5 in my fresh re-built C4. It was Recommended to me by Ken Collins (Bad Shoe Productions). It hold up to the heat better.