U-Joints Grades

[Loggerhead]

Doing some research on axles for my build and I'm on a budget. Based on price alone I can see the Spicer 760 u-joints aren't the best option out there. My question is, how much better are the "gold" and "CTM" options? I won't be doing a lot of pedal mashing and shouldn't be too terribly rough on equipment. The plan is for a 351 with 4r70w and 35" tires.

 

[bronconut73]

I did the WH Gold Joint which is a Yukon Super Joint.
Actually I did their chromoly axle and Gold joint combo for $519 total.

In terms of strength.......I guess CMT's are the strongest, then Yukons, then Ox, then the old reliable Spicer. The parts store joints don't hold a candle to the Spicers much less the better ones on the list.

 

[bmc69]

The CTM/Yukon joints are so much stronger for one main reason..the diameter of the cross-shafts is much larger than a conventional u-joint because the needle bearings have been eliminated. The rest is in the high-strength alloy use to make them.

In all the years my 408 has been abusing the Yukons in my rig, have never been able to hurt one. Can't say the same thing for the axle shafts they were in though....

 

[SteveL]

If you're not going hardcore the spicers are better than the other off the shelf u-joints. If you're running a full locker up front and gonna rock crawl you might want to go high dollar and molly shafts.

 

[Loggerhead]

I think I'm leaning toward the same set up that bnut has. The WH with 4340 axles and gold joints.

 

[bronconut73]

I think I'm leaning toward the same set up that bnut has. The WH with 4340 axles and gold joints.

It may be overkill but I believe it's a good place for a little overkill.....I'll cut corners sonewhere else. It also hits a good price point if you do the math. Keep us posted on your install.

 

[Loggerhead]

It may be overkill but I believe it's a good place for a little overkill.....I'll cut corners sonewhere else.

This was my philosophy too. Would hate for one to break on the trail.

 

[Jdgephar]

I broke two on the sand last weekend. They were the little joints though. For a road queen/once a year at the dunes, I went the WH chromoly and the 760 spicer joints. Couldn't beat that for $300. If you're gonna wheel harder, better u-joints are recommended.

 

[DirtDonk]

One other thing to remember with all the high-zoot "roller-less" joints is that they're not meant for standard 4-wheel duties like might be encountered in snow, ice or other on-road conditions.

In other words, they're not meant for high speed continuous use without maintenance.
That's fine for racing, where you might not mind pulling and re-packing them after each event, but not at all acceptable if you live in a climate where you lock your hubs at Thanksgiving and don't unlock them until Easter!

Or if you drive on the highway to get back to your trailer and don't have lockouts you can unlock for the 75 mile journey.
Or if you expect to do some casual snow-country wheeling where you might lock them in to go to the ski resort and not unlock them for a week.
If you are just going slow in the parking lot or a trail, or fast for short periods of time, you're fine. But if you plan to get out on the open road at all for any distance at speed, you should pick a different joint.

Paul

 

[Loggerhead]

Ok Paul, what do you recommend bud? Down here we do get an ice storm once in a while that could require 4hi for a few days. The rig will have lock outs and most likely won't be trailered any place unless it's broke.

 

[bronconut73]

Ok Paul, what do you recommend bud? Down here we do get an ice storm once in a while that could requir4hi for a few days. The rig will have lock outs and most likely won't be trailered any place unless it's broke.

Paul is correct. Regular use in 4 wheel high at high speeds for extended periods of time is not good for any of the needleless joints but this can be overcome with proper maintenance. If you get the Gold/Yukon Super Joints they will have a zerk fitting in the end of each cap making them easier to lube than any standard joint. So if your going to do some high speed 4 wheeling just give each cap a few squirts of that copper based grease and you will be fine. There will be no need to disassemble them for maintenance.

Cool thing about the Super joints is each chamber (beneath the cap) has a spring in it that when compressed from pushing in the grease will get stiff and let you know you have filled the reservoir properly.

 

[Loggerhead]

Thanks guys!

 

[Broncitis]

IMO, with 35's and a sensible right foot, alloy shafts and 760's will be plenty strong. I ran them for a long time with 38's and never broke one. If you hit the skinny pedal at full steering lock or when bouncing, that could be another story.

 

[MarkH@Wildhorse]

I will always be a CTM fan.
I grease them before each trip.
They last a long time, think of all the cars in King of the Hammers who wheel HARD on them for 150 miles.
The CTM's in my KOH car were close to 10 years old, the car is now sold and still running those same joints in Sweden.