Update on 72 Bronco

[Senior one]

New owner update on how my 72 really is!

Got the Bronco delivered the other day. Engine is shot and burning oil big time - 111,000 miles. Transfer case is not working properly either.
New suspension is nice but swear it rides like the old 2 ton stake trucks I use to drive in the Navy.
Wiper switch is frozen (ordered another along with new rearview mirror),
Seats are brand new and still the lowback with no headrests, no seatbelts,
Rust appears to be mostly surface except at one corner of the windshield,
Might need new tailgate mechanism.
Found out that there was Rhino Lining applied to the rear of the Bronco but new metal in front that was primed. Some of that is shot IMO but will wait for appraisal.
Needs new weatherstripping throughout.
No top.
No inner glovebox (order another) and no radio. Will wait for that as one of my last steps.
Rear, tubular bumper is shot but have a lead on another.
Needs new interior door panels - easy fix IMO, the side windows mechanicals have all been replace with new along with new door mechanisms and door handles.
So it's not as bad as I had imagined but still needs a lot of money spent on engine and drivetrain. Of course, won't really know about the full extent of the rust for sometime yet but will be receiving an vehicle appraisal later this month. At least it's in my garage.
Thanks for listening. Appreciate any and all advice.
Senior One.

 

[dmoses42]

No top could have an effect on ride quality. All of the newer suspension kits I've heard of are not terrible for ride quality, so maybe an "older" new kit? Or it could be as simple as having ordered the wrong shocks for the kit. Hard to say.

Side note... With all you have listed, you should probably go ahead and spend the $12 to get contributor status so you can post pictures, those pic requests to help you will likely be coming shortly. $12 a year is cheap for all the help you can get here. And if I didn't say it before, welcome to the best Early Bronco forum on Planet Earth!

 

[73azbronco]

check tire pressure

welcome to the addiction, it has been 16 years since I bought my last EB.

 

[Senior one]

No top could have an effect on ride quality. All of the newer suspension kits I've heard of are not terrible for ride quality, so maybe an "older" new kit? Or it could be as simple as having ordered the wrong shocks for the kit. Hard to say.

Side note... With all you have listed, you should probably go ahead and spend the $12 to get contributor status so you can post pictures, those pic requests to help you will likely be coming shortly. $12 a year is cheap for all the help you can get here. And if I didn't say it before, welcome to the best Early Bronco forum on Planet Earth!

Thank you. Have a Flikr account and was going to post pictures but didn't do it this time. Maybe this weekend. Thank you.

 

[Senior one]

check tire pressure

welcome to the addiction, it has been 16 years since I bought my last EB.

Good point; will do. Thank you, glad to be here.

 

[Senior one]

No top could have an effect on ride quality. All of the newer suspension kits I've heard of are not terrible for ride quality, so maybe an "older" new kit? Or it could be as simple as having ordered the wrong shocks for the kit. Hard to say.

Side note... With all you have listed, you should probably go ahead and spend the $12 to get contributor status so you can post pictures, those pic requests to help you will likely be coming shortly. $12 a year is cheap for all the help you can get here. And if I didn't say it before, welcome to the best Early Bronco forum on Planet Earth!

Additionally, it could be I'm just not use to driving a vehicle like that after driving Lexus' over the years so it could just be "me" that feels something differently.

 

[DirtDonk]

That experience level always has to be taken into account. Even a fantastic riding Early Bronco doesn’t ride like a modern vehicle.
Period…

One of the best riding/street mannered vehicles I’ve ever driven, is a three year old Lexus RX450H.
It has to have the sweetest balance between vehicle weight, spring rate, and strut damping that I’ve ever experienced.
Soaks up bumps, big and small, like nobody’s business. You might spend years fine tuning a bronco to get half as good.

 

[Speedrdr]

That experience level always has to be taken into account. Even a fantastic riding Early Bronco doesn’t ride like a modern vehicle.
Period…

The phrase “rides like a steel-wheeled log wagon” comes to my mind.

Randy

 

[joeray]

I read your comments here and on your previous thread, and here's my take on it...

If you're not planning on keeping it I probably wouldn't go the full restoration route. It's unlikely you'll ever get the money out of it that you put into it. Most of the restorations you see here are done for the owner's personal enjoyment, so it's easier to swallow the cost. I'd also be skeptical of anyone offering to do a frame off restoration for 30k. I noticed that one person who replied to your post had a 35k estimate that was already at 50k. A well-known shop here in Oregon advertises a frame off restoration starting at 75k.

I completely agree with the suggestion to get contributor status here so you can post photos directly, among other benefits. I followed a link to your flicker photos you posted earlier, and that's not going to cut it. The other benefit of contributor status is that your photos stay on the site in perpetuity. This forum has a wealth of information going back many years, and there's nothing more frustrating than reading a post when someone's external photo account is no longer active, and the images you need for reference have disappeared. Running a forum like this is an expensive process, and I doubt that even all the contributions allow the owner to break even.

Getting the obvious deficiencies corrected will always be worthwhile, whether you keep it or not. Like things that are broken and don't work. And if you can keep it garaged, that will go a long way in preserving it. As you get more familiar with the early broncos, you may find yourself with a growing addiction to them. One things for certain, you won't find a classic car with better support for availability of parts, both original and updated.

Welcome to the forum, and owning a classic Bronco! I'm 73 now and I wouldn't even consider selling mine! It's also got a pretty good ride, better than both of my 4Runners. I attribute that to keeping it mostly stock and at a stock ride height.

 

[Senior one]

I read your comments here and on your previous thread, and here's my take on it...

If you're not planning on keeping it I probably wouldn't go the full restoration route. It's unlikely you'll ever get the money out of it that you put into it. Most of the restorations you see here are done for the owner's personal enjoyment, so it's easier to swallow the cost. I'd also be skeptical of anyone offering to do a frame off restoration for 30k. I noticed that one person who replied to your post had a 35k estimate that was already at 50k. A well-known shop here in Oregon advertises a frame off restoration starting at 75k.

I completely agree with the suggestion to get contributor status here so you can post photos directly, among other benefits. I followed a link to your flicker photos you posted earlier, and that's not going to cut it. The other benefit of contributor status is that your photos stay on the site in perpetuity. This forum has a wealth of information going back many years, and there's nothing more frustrating than reading a post when someone's external photo account is no longer active, and the images you need for reference have disappeared. Running a forum like this is an expensive process, and I doubt that even all the contributions allow the owner to break even.

Getting the obvious deficiencies corrected will always be worthwhile, whether you keep it or not. Like things that are broken and don't work. And if you can keep it garaged, that will go a long way in preserving it. As you get more familiar with the early broncos, you may find yourself with a growing addiction to them. One things for certain, you won't find a classic car with better support for availability of parts, both original and updated.

Welcome to the forum, and owning a classic Bronco! I'm 73 now and I wouldn't even consider selling mine! It's also got a pretty good ride, better than both of my 4Runners. I attribute that to keeping it mostly stock and at a stock ride height.

A thousand thank yous for your advice. I probably will not keep the Bronco but am just prepping it for sale; namely, new drivetrain. I could get it in the primer stage and let it go and let the next owner do what they want with it. Suspension and tires/wheels already done so getting that drivetrain right is my most impactful job. Seats are good and just bought a bikini top for it so I don't get caught in a shower. Got a brand new on for half the price from another Bronco owner. Will carefully consider the contributor status. It will stay garaged for the most part and my personal vehicle can handle the outside weather. I live in Virginia and winters, for the most part, are brutal IMO. Thanks again; I do appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts.

 

[Senior one]

The phrase “rides like a steel-wheeled log wagon” comes to my mind.

Randy

Thank you. The guy I met today who owns a 68 echoed my comments about ride. It's what it is. Getting mine out and about more regularly might help as the tires may have had a flat spot from sitting over the last year.

 

[joeray]

A couple other things I thought I'd mention...

"The transfer case is not working properly"
Depending on your point of view this may be completely normal. None of them work properly, at least if you're accustomed to a synchronized transmission. The Dana 20 is not synchronized, so it can be impossible to shift until you unload the gear train. This entails rocking the truck back and forth between 1st and reverse while pushing or pulling on the t-case lever. And make sure you have the button on the handle fully depressed to disengage the interlock. Having the front hubs locked only makes the process more difficult. The D20 is extremely robust and durable, so It may not need rebuilding unless it's leaking oil. Ford specified a common 50w oil for it. Nothing special.

"swear it rides like the old 2 ton stake truck"
These trucks are so lightweight (especially in the rear) that you'll probably be startled at how little air pressure you need in the tires to get an even wear pattern and a relatively smooth ride. Not having a hardtop on it will only exaggerate it. If it's a 10 ply truck tire like a BFG all-terrain TA then it needs even less pressure then a passenger car tire because they're so stiff. I run BFG's, usually about 22 in the rear and 28 in the front. If it's loaded for camping I bring them both up to the low '30s. And that's with a hardtop and heavier bumpers (and my 110 lb lab). Their rated max pressure is 50 psi, and at that pressure you're going to need a kidney transplant soon.

 

[Speedrdr]

And with bias ply tires, you get a beating first thing in the morning until they warm up and are round again. Lol

Randy

 

[Senior one]

A couple other things I thought I'd mention...

"The transfer case is not working properly"
Depending on your point of view this may be completely normal. None of them work properly, at least if you're accustomed to a synchronized transmission. The Dana 20 is not synchronized, so it can be impossible to shift until you unload the gear train. This entails rocking the truck back and forth between 1st and reverse while pushing or pulling on the t-case lever. And make sure you have the button on the handle fully depressed to disengage the interlock. Having the front hubs locked only makes the process more difficult. The D20 is extremely robust and durable, so It may not need rebuilding unless it's leaking oil. Ford specified a common 50w oil for it. Nothing special.

"swear it rides like the old 2 ton stake truck"
These trucks are so lightweight (especially in the rear) that you'll probably be startled at how little air pressure you need in the tires to get an even wear pattern and a relatively smooth ride. Not having a hardtop on it will only exaggerate it. If it's a 10 ply truck tire like a BFG all-terrain TA then it needs even less pressure then a passenger car tire because they're so stiff. I run BFG's, usually about 22 in the rear and 28 in the front. If it's loaded for camping I bring them both up to the low '30s. And that's with a hardtop and heavier bumpers (and my 110 lb lab). Their rated max pressure is 50 psi, and at that pressure you're going to need a kidney transplant soon.

Thank you again. Appreciate your comments