(UPDATE!)Sat for 14 years. Muck under the valve covers with pics.

[Blue71]

Trying to get the '68 w/ 289 fired up. The previous owner drove it inside a barn 14 years ago and it has sat ever since. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug holes before getting new plugs in. Checked for fire and it seems good. New points are in and gapped .017. It will turn over and I have spark. I pulled the valve covers and there is a lot of muck laying around. Can I clean this muck up, or is it a really bad sign. I know it shoudn't be there, but do you think I there is any chance on getting this thing running if the oil is dried up under the valve cover. When I crank it..the rocker arms seem like they are moving fine and oil is coming out of the top of them still like it is luricating. I have a new battery, but it still sound like the motor is week after a few revolutions and finally stops turning. I can let off of the key for a few and try it again and it cranks again, but winds down slowly and gets week again. Any tips are welcome.

Thanks Much,

Blue71

 

[JWMcCrary]

I would disconnect the line going back to the fuel tank and try and run some fresh gas from a small gas container there at the fuel pump to try and get it started. (This can be dangerous, naturally, but I have done this several times in the past) Another thing I had trouble with on an old Mustang with a 289 is coil and points. I was getting fire and it still wouldn't crank. A friend of my fathers looked at it and at once said I needed to change the coil and points because the fire I was getting was red instead of a blue color. I changed the coil and points and it fired right up.

 

[70TEXEB]

This here is only an opinion from past experience. It is probably gonna have to be rebuilt some time, if you use that motor. If you put some additives in there to clean it, chances are it will fail sooner. If you want to hold off on making engine decisions on it, and drive it, you would be better off not to clean the gunk. I have also seen this on some motor head shows, and they say not to also. You can get some others opinions. But mine went down hill quick when added some Lucas valve cleaner.

 

[mark74ranger]

Oil detergents have come a long way since the Bronco was built. I don't think that kind of gunk is too uncommon for that vintage. I would start it up and let it run with new oil/filter for a hundred miles or so and then change. What do you have to loose.

 

[Mr Joe]

The hazzard with trying to clean that with additives is when that junk breaks loose, it will clog oil passages and cause damage. You'd be better off tearing it down and cleaning everything out of the truck.

 

[airman]

Diester. Kill or cure. This for the sludge issue.

I think the reason its not starting is fuel. Will it fire with 1/2 mouthfull of gas in the carb? Starting fluid?

You need to buy a 6 pack of oil filters if you get it started. Change the first one after 1st week. Change the 2nd after 2 more weeks. Cut them open to see what you are picking up. keep it up untill the chucks are gone.

Jeff in AZ

 

[IowaMike]

I'm gonna bet that even if there is fuel in the tank and/or lines that the diaphragm on the fuel pump is dry rotted, thus no pumping of fuel. Had it happen on my '76 Torino after sitting for 5 years. New fuel pump and it fired right up.

 

[Blue71]

Thanks guys...keep'em comming. O.K. I finally got it to almost fire after putting a little gas in the carb. Wasn't firing before when I did the same, but oh well at least it seems to wanna start now. I will try a new coil too. Couldn't hurt. The motor still runs down very quickly after 30 seconds of trying to start. I still have a new battery and am charging it all the time when I am trying to start the Bronco. Sounds like it is pulling a lot of AMPS or something until it drains the battery down enought to where it won't crank. I wait a minute or so and it goes another 30 seconds before running back down. Any ideas?

Thanks Much,

Blue71

 

[mtkawboy]

If you try to clean it out you will need to remove the pan or you will pump all the crap thru the motor and the lifters will be clattering. Id leave it alone and just chnage the oil or rebuild it. Its probably sat that long for a reason anyway and will be shot inside. After sitting that long all the seals will be dried out and the rings stuck anyway. I think youre wasting your time unless you just want to hear it run

 

[mark74ranger]

The battery power drain issue sounds like the starter getting hot and loosing power, not the battery. It has to cool the windings off to get going again.

 

[TonyPDX]

I suspect your starter issues are due to a bad connection in the wires to the starter. Crank it over untill it slows down, then feel all the connections with your hand. (Carefully some may be really hot!) Don't forget to check both terminals on the battery, and the grounds. Any warm connections need help.

If runs ok once you get it started I would pull the oil pan right away and clean it out. Then I would change the oil rather frequently for the first few thousand miles.

Tony

 

[IowaMike]

Carb could be gummed up or the float shot as well. Try spraying some carb cleaner into it.

 

[cbfomoco]

lets see some pics of the rest of the bronco ;D

 

[musetech]

muck

Vehicles that haven't been maintained and are suddenly thrust into the hands of a right minded owner can be honery. Sounds dumb and makes less sense that long overdue maintenance could cause problems but just try and help out an auto trans with high mileage on it with a flush.

A compression gauge and a vacuum gauge are a must buy for you in order to see what you have got yourself into. Tons of info on the net on how to use both if you are not familiar.

If you just want to get her running to fart around in then the advice from previous posts should get you on the right track.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Air, fuel, spark, and timing....is all you need.

Good luck.

 

[Leo73EB]

Why not just use some Kerosene and a stiff brush to gently clean all that "crud" out of there? I've done it in the past, and recently... no issues to report.

 

[broncnaz]

I would plug the oil drain back holes and get as much of that out of there as possible (wire brush + compressed air, no solvents) or just leave it until you find out how it runs. I've seen engines just as bad and they ran very strong. but it points to poor maintenance. Your cranking problem may be your starter or just plain friction in the engine remember no oil circulation for 14 years + all that crud the cylinder walls are probably pretty dry

 

[Jeepster]

I would plug the oil drain back holes and get as much of that out of there as possible (wire brush + compressed air, no solvents) or just leave it until you find out how it runs. I've seen engines just as bad and they ran very strong. but it points to poor maintenance. Your cranking problem may be your starter or just plain friction in the engine remember no oil circulation for 14 years + all that crud the cylinder walls are probably pretty dry

The oil wasn't changed very often by the PO.
Clean the muck off the top of the heads by scraping with a small puddy knife or something while you suck the sludge out of there with a shop vac. Carb is prob gunked up a little but you might be able to get through that with fresh gas. If the mill fires and runs its time for a oil changing marathon. Drain 1 qt.add a qt of risone/kersoene and run for 10 min/drain,change filter. inspect dirty oil for clumps. repete or pull oil pan if really bad to speed up the process. New filter/oil run for a couple of days and do it again. If the engine dosent like it now is the time to find out.

 

[texaswildcat98]

This Will Make You Cringe!

Way back in high school I was given by my step-grandfather a 74 AMC AMX Javelin, 401 cid, 4sp... sweet car, wish I still had it. %) (collector has it now)

Anyway this car set for 7 years before I got it... The first thing that was done was he dumped about a gallon of diesel into the crank case... ran it. Dumped it and did it again. The second time ran the car for an hour... I drove that car for a year after that before I had a friend who was at a tech school take it to rebuild the engine...

I wouldn't suggest it, but if your going to rebuild it... Of course I'm the guy who use to try to blow things up... "huh cheby 250, 6 cyl, 3 quarts oil how long will it last!!!" ;D

 

[Blue71]

O.K. Need a little more help. I got the starter checked at 2 different places and they say it is good (8-10 Amps). I put it back on, but the motor still sounds really weak when you crank it. Battery is still fully charged. Still putting gas into the carb, I finally get it to run for about 5 seconds then it dies. (I did get it to un for about 10 seconds while keeoing the gas pouring into the carb.) When I try and recrank...it is very weak trying to turn over until I put more fuel in the carb and then it runs again for a few seconds and dies. With no fuel in the carb...it will turn over about 5 times very slowly and then kinda lock up and do nothing like the battery is dead. I checked the compression on the cylinders and this is what I got....

#5-95 psi ---- #1-125 psi
#6-105 psi ---- #2-125 psi
#7-60 psi ---- #3-130 psi
#8-100 psi ---- #4-135 psi

When I added oil to the cylinder through the plug hole and checked the compression again...#5 #6 & #8 came up to 150 psi and then after a few checks they came back down to close to the same. #7 which was 60 psi went up to about 90 psi and came back to 60 after a few tests. Shouldn't it still run with those numbers even though they are somewhat weak on the drivers side of the motor. Could this be caused buy a lifter or valve being stuck from setting all those year? Can the lower psi cylinders get psi back, once the motor fires and runs for a while and heats up? Sorry for the long post.

Thanks MUch,

Blue71

 

[Mr Joe]

With it sitting that long, the rings are most likely stuck and a compression reading that low wouldn't surprise me. When you're cranking are you getting oil pressure? I had a motor with 0 oil pressure act like a dead battery. Friction killed it.