Upgrading fuel lines for future EFI

[ObscureMachine]

I want to make a safer fuel line system than what I've currently got (hose and some aluminum tube). But, I also want to set it up now for my future fuel injection upgrade. And I want to use braided fuel lines and -AN fittings.

Can you check my work?

I need
For Edelbrock Carb: 5/8" to -6AN fitting

Then -6AN fittings to -6AN Steel Braided Hose? Or 3/8" ID steel braided hose, which I believe is the same?

-6AN filters

Banjo fittings? Where? At the carb?

What have you done? What do you suggest?

Thanks - Jim

 

[AZ73]

I don't know what the love affair is with braided steel. The ethanol in the fuel will eat the rubber inside. I ran Nicopp. 3/8 to and 5/16 return.

https://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Coppe...D=51nRJ8xfrBL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

https://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Coppe...D=516J2cTVuOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

I know other guys who have used earl's hose and push on fittings.
https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/super_stock/

 

[BroncoChicken]

The key with the braided lines is to get the ones that are PTFE (Teflon) instead of rubber. If you buy the cheap rubber lines, the fuel will ruin them. anfittingsdirect.com has everything you need for a reasonable price.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The number of different fuel lines is staggering. EFI rating is needed for the higher pressure, but will work with a low pressure carb. But don't use low pressure carb hose for EFI. Then there is the barrier hose which has a liner in it. Resistant to different fuel blends and doesn't weep gas vapors. When I redid the boat I got barrier fuel hose (coast guard approved which is another thing) and now the hull doesn't have that faint fuel small that it always had before. Oh and in tank applications such as hooking up an in-tank fuel pump have a different rated hose for submersible applications. And none of those are any good as a power steering or automatic transmission cooler hose. That is just the rubber hose stuff.

Braided hose you need to check the specs and application info very carefully to make sure it meets your needs. I don't think most of that hose has as good of durability as the rubber stuff. For racing applications it is ran for a season or two, taken off and the vehicle reconfigured.

Another thing about AN fittings is they are not interchangeable. Yes, an AN -6 fitting will mate with any other AN -6 fitting. But the fittings attaching to the hose are manufacturer specific. Even more then just manufacturer, often even hose lines. A 1000 series fitting may work perfect with a 1000 series hose, but not work right with the 2000 series stuff. I run a little bit of AN fittings, but try to avoid it. They are one of those things that look great, but when trying to service something years later, on the side of the road, in front of a parts store, you struggle to make it simple again.

 

[ntsqd]

I use push-lock/Barb-tite AN hose ends, and even those are supposedly for a specific hose. However, I have been running the EFI barrier hose on these fittings for a couple of years without any problems. These are the barbed fittings the DO NOT need nor want a clamp on them. With the correct hose they are rated to the bursting strength of the hose WITHOUT a clamp. Usually that is 250 psi.

It is an expensive way to have a system without any hose clamps, but I detest hose clamps on fuel hose as they always chew up the end of the hose.

 

[AZ73]

I detest hose clamps on fuel hose as they always chew up the end of the hose.

You're using the wrong hose clamps.

https://www.holley.com/products/plu...r_guard/vapor_guard_hose_ends/parts/750006ERL

While I like the looks of braided steel (with teflon hose) AND I do like the vapor guard press-on fittings, I wanted my system to be serviceable anywhere. With braided steel you need tools for the AN fitings and the ability to find replacement hose. With press-in you must cut the hose to get it off, then you have to replace the expensive hose. I used Nicopp with vapor guard hose at each connection point (tank, pumps, switches, filters, carb) and the clamps noted in the link. The Nicopp looks fantastic, but the 3 inch hose ends at each connection point doesn't look that great, but they are easily serviceable anywhere. How often are you actually looking at your fuel system? Replacing a spare 3 inch piece is a lot cheaper than replacing a 3-6 foot piece. But everyone has a different need. My second choice would be the press on like ntsqd. My last choice would be braided steel. Don't need that over-engineering unless you're doing it for looks.

 

[ntsqd]

Those chew up the hose too, they just take longer to do it. BT, DT, No thanks.

I LIKE being able to disconnect a fuel connection using two end wrenches. Two NORMAL end wrenches, I do not use any special wrenches. Not scratching the anodize isn't a concern of mine.

I did not use the barrier hose for the whole length of the supply and return, I used wash-down push-to-connect fittings and nylon tubing for the length of the frame and only used the barrier hose to make the connections and to jump across from the frame to the engine or frame to fuel tank.

Rear bulkhead connections, supply is Blue, Return is Black (something else not easily done with hose clamps):

Front bulkhead connectors, yet to get hose & hose ends:

 

[ObscureMachine]

I did not use the barrier hose for the whole length of the supply and return, I used wash-down push-to-connect fittings and nylon tubing for the length of the frame and only used the barrier hose to make the connections and to jump across from the frame to the engine or frame to fuel tank.

ntsqd - what are "barrier hoses?" What type of "rubber" hose are you using?" Which connection parts did you use?

I actually have some of the nickel / copper line. But holy crap, I can't get it to straighten the way I would want it to look and I'm not buying one of those $90 roller tools.

 

[ntsqd]

Gates EFI pressure rated emissions barrier hose is what I'm using for the rubber hose sections.

I lifted the picture of a home-brew tubing straightener from a fellow member's post, but it is on my home machine's HD. Basically a plate with 5 or 6 steel roller type sliding glass door rollers alternatingly bolted to it. Run the tube thru it, rotate the plate around the tubing 45°-90° and roll it thru again. Keep rolling and rotating until straight. Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-1-5mm-Groove-Pulley-Bearings/dp/B012KKTBRU

 

[ObscureMachine]

Gates EFI pressure rated emissions barrier hose is what I'm using for the rubber hose sections.

I lifted the picture of a home-brew tubing straightener from a fellow member's post, but it is on my home machine's HD. Basically a plate with 5 or 6 steel roller type sliding glass door rollers alternatingly bolted to it. Run the tube thru it, rotate the plate around the tubing 45°-90° and roll it thru again. Keep rolling and rotating until straight. Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-1-5mm-Groove-Pulley-Bearings/dp/B012KKTBRU

I think I've seen that video. I'll look it up. I also saw a guy use a piece of straight pipe that was just a little bigger than the tube itself. Wondering if that really works.

 

[yakelys69]

What’s the stock stuff ford uses on efi, is that available aftermarket?

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

I just bought the fuel line kit from BC Broncos, with the fancy clips. Eliminated all the plastic fuel line and was bent perfectly for both the fuel line and return line.

 

[ObscureMachine]

I just bought the fuel line kit from BC Broncos, with the fancy clips. Eliminated all the plastic fuel line and was bent perfectly for both the fuel line and return line.

I thought about this, but I also want to do some special routing to clean up the engine bay, that's why I scratched it off my list. But maybe I can make it work. - Jim

 

[mudstud]

I just bought the steel tubing from the parts house and built my own.