Use of Gasket to Block EGR

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I've read quite a bit about the process to block the EGR valve on my stock 302 intake, but I am still uncertain about whether or not a gasket, similar to the gaskets used on exhaust manifold, are used in conjunction with a blocking plate. It seems obvious that without a gasket of some kind there would be a leak. If this is accurate, what gasket material is used, which will stand up to the heat?

Thanks for any help.

 

[broncnaz]

if your using a metal plate to block of the port then just get a regular EGR gasket and use it. But basically yes I would use exhuast gasket material. you could probably get by with just about any gasket over time the port should soot up so its doubtful it will ever leak.

 

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Thank you!

 

[Brewbro21]

If you don't have a gasket get some high temp sealent or gasket maker. "The Right Stuff" works really well in mnost applications.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Gasket material for the block will just burn and blow through.
I just used the normal EGR valve gasket on the intake side and a piece of .005" stainless steel shim stock to block it. You don't need a gasket on the valve side of the shim stock.

You can also defeat the EGR valve by blocking the exhaust ports at the intake manifold. There are gaskets made to do this, or you can use the same .005" stainless shim stock to block those ports. This is my preferred method. It eliminates the carb heat and some fuel percolation issues of modern fuel.

 

[xcntrk]

It's really not that hard to do it the right way and not have to worry about unnecessary heat in the upper intake...

 

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Thanks for all your help!

 

[jckkys]

Have you looked at the the hole in the intake carb mounting surface? To the best of my knowledge the '74s have a round hole that can except a NPT plug that will certainly hold up to exhaust impulses. I thought we covered all this in your earlier thread posted on 2/29.

 

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Not yet jckkys. I've been out of town and have been unable to check, but I will. Thanks to all your help, I now know my options going forward. Looking forward to digging into this when I return.

I also picked up a spare 2150 for a great price that I plan on rebuilding to replace my worn out remanufactured carb.

Thanks again!

 

[jckkys]

You got a "spare" 2150? Even tho you have been describing your 2100 as a 2150, it's still a 2100. A logical choice for a spare would also be a 2100. These two carburetors are not the same. Complete 2100s and 2150s are not interchangeable. Neither are the major component parts. Your 2100 has a PCV port. 2150s in the late '70s have no PCV port. So with a 2150 you'll have to find a spacer that has the PCV port, at least that is if the spare is actually a 2150.

 

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The carb I picked up is identical to my current carb, which has the pcv built into the base of the carburetor. Is it a 2100 or a 2150...I don't know, but it will work for my application. Thanks

 

[jckkys]

When you buy a rebuilding kit or replacement parts it's it's good to know what model you have.

 

[broncnaz]

Most carb kits cover both models of carbs but like said its better to know what you have to ensure you dont end up with the wrong kit.

 

[EBGeek]

X2 on xcntrk's suggestion above. I bought a 1/4NPT tap and plug on Amazon and was out about $10. Process took about 15 mins.

 

[brianstrange]

Harbor Freight has a 1/8", 1/4' and 1/2" NPT tap & Die set for $15. I use the 1/2" NPT Tap (measures about 3/4") and a 3/4 NPT plug from a hardware store for my 5.0 and Cobra lower intakes.