using efi coil on carbed engine

[Crush]

for those that have done it, did u just hook up the old coil wires or was there something more complex involved?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I have ran an E-core coil on carbed setups before. But it was fired by an aftermarket ignition box.

There are instructions on running a TFI module triggered off a set of points (condenser deleted?). I have considered this for the boat. I need to find these again.

I have not tried an E-core coil on points or Duraspark.

What are you planning on using to trigger the coil?

 

[Crush]

idk. I have duraspark on a 77 and was under the impression it was basically aplug n play scenario. hook up the efi coil like the duraspark one and it works? Im really kind of lost at this and might just use the old coil if it becomes an issue. first I have to get my non crank issue resolved. I AM NO ElECTICAL EXPERT!!!!lol

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you still running a points distributor, or has it been converted to electronic of some type?

Paul

 

[Crush]

77 with duraspark

 

[Crush]

Dont know how this got posted twice but admin can combine you like there jon.

 

[ntsqd]

I ran a TFI coil from an early EFI Lincoln of some sort with a D-S II ignition for several years. No issues, ran fine. Even worked with an MSD 6A.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry, when I answered there were no responses showing, so asked the question. Maybe that was just from the duplicate being combined? Probably.

Anyway, an E-core coil is usually run from a full 12v, as are most Duraspark ignitions. Your original coil wiring would have a resistor to lower it more to the 6-9 volt range to keep old coils and points systems happy.
Seems to me then, from what the others posted, that you could do it either way. If you use the old wire however, you're likely not getting the new coil's full potential output.
If it was me, I'd chance running a new wire to the positive side of the coil and running the full system voltage, rather than the old resistor wire. If it turns out to shorten the life of the coil due to some fiddledeestickness of the old Duraspark system, then it's a lesson learned. I don't think it will though, which is why I'd run a new wire with 12v to the coil and leave the stock distributor and it's wiring in place.

The wires should then be:

1. Leave the Green w/yellow on the negative terminal of the coil
2. Replace the Red w/green wire at the positive, with a non-resistor wire spliced to an "on in RUN only" circuit (easiest might be just do it at the back of the key)
3. Leave the distributor and harness alone.

You're obviously going to have to cut out the old horseshoe connector and use whatever terminal is appropriate for the e-coil. You can probably get a stock connector either at the junkyard or at your local auto parts store.
Whatever circuit you choose to use, make sure it's one of the RUN-only circuits. If you use one that's hot in ACC too, then you could overheat your coil when just listening to the radio. It's not as big a problem with an e-core coil as it is with the old oil-filled types, but why chance it?

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

fwiw I've run the blue strain D-S II's on both 12 VDC (rewired '67 Ranchero) and thru the points resistor wire (300ci '66 Econoline). Never had an issue either way.

 

[Broncobowsher]

For the 12V crowd, also remember that the dwell on the coil is also controlled. Sometimes by the computer, if not it is controlled in the TFI. At idle the dwell is so short that many meters won't even read it. That is one of the reasons they can get away without a ballast resistor.

 

[Crush]

thanks guys much appreciated. now if I can the damn thing to crank. lol(see my other thread)