Valve cover opinion needed. Maybe dangerous?

[joshua]

I have some scamozon cast valve covers. I bought them cuz the stamped chrome ones the engine came with were (massaged) to clear up swept boat manifolds.

Well that tweaked the one enough to leak something fierce. Since this engine is a stop gap to my 351 roller in the corner, I just bought a set of cheap cast ones hoping they will seal better. 2 issues I have. I have to screw in the baffles and I’m worried about a screw backing out. And there is no recessed lip, is that just going to cause a leak? I have the metal insert Felpro gaskets. I’m wondering if anyone has worked with anything like this, and how it turned out. See pics for a better idea.

 

[jamesroney]

I have some scamozon cast valve covers. I bought them cuz the stamped chrome ones the engine came with were (massaged) to clear up swept boat manifolds.

Well that tweaked the one enough to leak something fierce. Since this engine is a stop gap to my 351 roller in the corner, I just bought a set of cheap cast ones hoping they will seal better. 2 issues I have. I have to screw in the baffles and I’m worried about a screw backing out. And there is no recessed lip, is that just going to cause a leak? I have the metal insert Felpro gaskets. I’m wondering if anyone has worked with anything like this, and how it turned out. See pics for a better idea.

People that make aftermarket parts drive me bananas.

Yes to everything that you are worried about. And do NOT use loctite, epoxy, goop, cement, or snot to enable the use of the wrong hardware. Just don't.

The factory used a drive rivet into the cast aluminum to hold the baffle. I have seen valve covers removed and the drive rivet missing. The rivets are too big to get past the oil pump screen...so as long as they make it to the pan, it's fine???

Yeah, no. Do yourself a favor. drill the valve cover boss,, thread the boss, and install a socket head screw. Drill the top of the screw and safety wire it. Aircraft have been doing it forever. Then you are Done.

Cast aluminum covers with the Fel-Pro blue metal insert re-usable gaskets for the win!

And yeah, I've done it.

 

[joshua]

That’s a pretty good plan. Pretty small. I wonder if someone makes little bolts with them drilled

 

[joshua]

People that make aftermarket parts drive me bananas.

Yes to everything that you are worried about. And do NOT use loctite, epoxy, goop, cement, or snot to enable the use of the wrong hardware. Just don't.

The factory used a drive rivet into the cast aluminum to hold the baffle. I have seen valve covers removed and the drive rivet missing.

This would work I’m assuming

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/90152A218

 

[jamesroney]

This would work I’m assuming

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/90152A218

I am 99% certain that nothing anyone can say now could prevent you from doing it right...

I don't know the diameter of the existing hole in the chinese boss, but if it will thread 8-32...then it will work.

 

[joshua]

I am 99% certain that nothing anyone can say now could prevent you from doing it right...

I don't know the diameter of the existing hole in the chinese boss, but if it will thread 8-32...then it will work.

I’ll ef it up. I’ve never used safety wire. I don’t have the tool. I’m not sure I could get the tool in there. I’m thinking just run the wire in through them like a square and twisting it. I’ll see if I can locate a tool from a friend first.

 

[jamesroney]

I’ll ef it up. I’ve never used safety wire. I don’t have the tool. I’m not sure I could get the tool in there. I’m thinking just run the wire in through them like a square and twisting it. I’ll see if I can locate a tool from a friend first.

Tool is super cool and awesome, but unnecessary. You can just hand tie them together in pairs, and they will never fall out. I’m reluctant to use one wire for all 4 (6?) locations, because I don’t know where your rockers might touch.

 

[joshua]

Tool is super cool and awesome, but unnecessary. You can just hand tie them together in pairs, and they will never fall out. I’m reluctant to use one wire for all 4 (6?) locations, because I don’t know where your rockers might touch.

I have the same concern

 

[jamesroney]

I have the same concern

I'd just wire each bolt to each arm of the baffle. You could even drill a 1/16 hole in the baffle for the wire if you want to be fancy.

 

[joshua]

Dang that’s smart and simple. That’s the plan. Thank you sir.

 

[Bajabrewer]

Is the baffle steel? if so screw them in & tack weld the screw to the baffle - not going anywhere.

 

[joshua]

I thought of that as well. But making aluminum plate and welding to the boss. What u said makes more sense

 

[ba123]

People that make aftermarket parts drive me bananas.

Yes to everything that you are worried about. And do NOT use loctite, epoxy, goop, cement, or snot to enable the use of the wrong hardware. Just don't.

The factory used a drive rivet into the cast aluminum to hold the baffle. I have seen valve covers removed and the drive rivet missing. The rivets are too big to get past the oil pump screen...so as long as they make it to the pan, it's fine???

Yeah, no. Do yourself a favor. drill the valve cover boss,, thread the boss, and install a socket head screw. Drill the top of the screw and safety wire it. Aircraft have been doing it forever. Then you are Done.

Cast aluminum covers with the Fel-Pro blue metal insert re-usable gaskets for the win!

And yeah, I've done it.

Damnit, James....leave it to you to add one more thing on my long list...

I put loctite PERMANENT red on those Ford Motorsport baffle screws. I guess I'll see how tight they really are and if I can turn them, I'll do this as well.

Is the baffle steel? if so screw them in & tack weld the screw to the baffle - not going anywhere.

That's a great idea as well.