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Valve covers purchased from TBP

Calibronc66

Full Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
253
So I had a rattle noise coming from motor decided to look down oil fill cap and found the problem. I just installed these valve covers about three months ago called TBP they said contact Scott Drake thanks.... Hope the two screws are sitting right in the open when I pull this apart. I'd recommend pulling the baffle loose and adding some lock tight if you have these.

https://youtu.be/FayRrOBcODA
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Rogue Valley, OR
FYI. There is a known issue on those baffles that they actually just break off at the bends due to the pot metal Drake uses. I've personally seen 3 of them. If you don't need the baffle you may just want to remove it all together and or make your own.
 
OP
OP
Calibronc66

Calibronc66

Full Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
253
FYI. There is a known issue on those baffles that they actually just break off at the bends due to the pot metal Drake uses. I've personally seen 3 of them. If you don't need the baffle you may just want to remove it all together and or make your own.



Guess I missed that post cause you called it make it four you have now seen broke off.

12b0e38ee7ccba6c8b84149307367710.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

KeithKinPhx

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
444
Guess i need to pull those covers off and check. May need to fab something up out of a thicker stainless steel.

Not the biggest engine guy, why or why not would I need the baffles?
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Most aftermarket aluminum valve covers come with cheesy baffles. They're ineffective at best. I figure it's because many with aftermarket covers will also be using taller roller rockers.
I've made my own baffles from bent pieces of sheet aluminum. They've held up well, but they certainly aren't as effective as the baffles that come in factory valve covers.
It's the price of vanity.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,961
FYI. There is a known issue on those baffles that they actually just break off at the bends due to the pot metal Drake uses. I've personally seen 3 of them. If you don't need the baffle you may just want to remove it all together and or make your own.

Well that kinda blows.. :(
 

nkhd1

Full Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2011
Messages
198
good to know now i just took mine back off cause oil came out the bolt holes --and i was just filling the engine for the first time. the holes had divots around them on the inside and leaked even with the good fel pro reusable gasket .
its a shame to spend good money on low quality "new" parts.

filed down the raised areas around the seal surface and JB welded the low spots around the holes and sanded flat again.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,489
Guess I missed that post cause you called it make it four you have now seen broke off.

Yikes. Nasty.
Wondering too what rockers all the guys are using that have had the issue. Is that a rub/wear mark on the left flange? Or just the light?

Not the biggest engine guy, why or why not would I need the baffles?

A few reasons. But all have to do with making a mess.
If it's just the oil fill side, with no baffle oil will leak out of the filler in pretty quick order. If it's a filter type cap, it's a real mess!
If there is no baffle on the PCV valve side, the engine vacuum just sucks the daylights out of the oil mist and two things happen. You have a real mess inside the intake manifold (and everywhere it leaks out of the vacuum hose fittings), and you need to add oil every 1000 miles or so.
Neither of which is much fun.

There's a ton of oil (both liquid and mist) whipping around under the valve cover when the engine is running and hot.

How does that even break off? Vibration?

Was wondering the same thing. But yeah, those mounting tabs are not very substantial. And the vibrations inside an engine are substantial. Not to mention the heating and cooling cycles that cheap metals can't handle as much of.
But rocker interference could definitely be a cause as well. Changes the whole dynamic.

Paul
 

Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
When i put my drake valve covers on the baffel wouldnt even go between the stock rocker arms. Had to smash it down to get them to fit
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Rogue Valley, OR
2 of the 3 I saw were stock stamped rockers, one was a roller rocker setup. The wear is probably after it broke off and rattled around.

This is DEFINITELY a Drake issue. You may want to change the title from TBP valve covers to Drake valve covers or Bronco Script Valve covers.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
I'm going to hijack this thread a bit...
The factory stamped steel valve covers come with really effective oil baffles.
But most prefer cast valve covers because they seal better and just look cool.
Are there any cast covers available with an effective baffle?
 

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SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
I bought these valve covers for a ' 83 or so 351W non roller and the baffles wouldn't clear the rockers . They are awesome looking though .
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
The factory stamped steel valve covers come with really effective oil baffles.
But most prefer cast valve covers because they seal better and just look cool.

Can't do anything about the look of stamped steel vs cast, but if more people would use the spreaders that are made to spread the bolt pressure the stamped steel would seal better.
 
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