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Vintage Air Gen V Install
- Thread starter ba123
- Start date
Regular size
wanted to keep it low and outta sight. Only other way I could go is straight back and on this side of the steering shaft but not sure I'd like that any more.
Thanks, my friend went through the fender, will get pics today. He recommended using reduced size because it bends much easier. Thanks for your documentation, it will def. help.
I thought about the fender, but it's more visible going across the engine compartment to the fender.
Hopefully my way still works well...we will see and if I have to change something, it's not that hard since I'm making my own hoses.
I might try and see if it can fit and not rub on the other side of the steering shaft later today, but every time I look into this, I find it will not affect my cooling with that hose right next to the header and especially that low side hose since the goal of the compressor is to increase the temp of the gas going in and that is the #10 line in..
I could not find as definite of an answer on the line that goes from the receiver Drier to the Evap, so that line is both wrapped and has a metal heat shield on the pass side.
I have a friends 74 bronco here, the heater hoses are routed over the firewall into the fender then down into the kick panel. Has vintage air( doesn't work), no flow to the heater core. The valve opens & closes and the core is clear. Just can't get flow into the heater core. Mind you whoever built this for him didn't even put the ductwork in, or let alone the under dash vents for the AC. Compressor doesn't kick on at all. Has a FITech injection system, temp runs at 297 to 299°.
I can't run heater hoses through firewall the heater box is right there.
Is there supposed to be a bypass hose from tstat housing to water pump? I've been doing this stuff for a long time, never saw a bypass with that amount of flow before.
Has a service spout in the heater hose open that while it's running. You can see coolant but no flow.
I'm beginning to wonder if this guy screwed it all up. The more I fix the more I find wrong with it. Not just the cooling or heating but in general.
I can't run heater hoses through firewall the heater box is right there.
Is there supposed to be a bypass hose from tstat housing to water pump? I've been doing this stuff for a long time, never saw a bypass with that amount of flow before.
Has a service spout in the heater hose open that while it's running. You can see coolant but no flow.
I'm beginning to wonder if this guy screwed it all up. The more I fix the more I find wrong with it. Not just the cooling or heating but in general.
Your post is kinda hard to follow to me. So let me try and answer how I understand what you're asking.
Heat hose runs OUT from the intake manifold somewhere and that can vary by year or by intake, but yes, in the general area of the thermostat housing. Then, it circulated through the heater core OR Vintage Air system with integrated heater core (you can't have both separate).
First off, if the water pump is not working and not flowing coolant, then nothing else matters. Your valve open or closed, won't change a thing. It's the water pump that pushes the water through and circulates it through, not the VA system.
I HOPE you mean the temp runs around 197°-199°, not another 100° too hot?
Bypass hose allows coolant to circulate through the engine when the thermostat is closed. So, if thermostat is closed, yes you will see a whole lot of flow if the water pump is working. If the tstat is open, then not so much.
A guy can't really screw this stuff up without cutting the engine block and intake and rewelding stuff.
Maybe post some pics so we can see what you're seeing as again, it's hard to understand what you mean.
There is no coolant flow to the heater core. I changed the water pump, new tstat. The vintage air hose routing goes over the firewall, no heater core openings in the firewall. Then into the fender and down into the lower a pillar into the cabin.
I will include pics, couldn't figure out how to post them.
Still not much for flow into those hoses. The rad is lower than the hoses.
Ok how do I add pics?
And yes it's running at 284° with the new tstat. I'm starting to think the sensor is fuggered.
I don't know if that's really possible. Overheating for that engine is like over 220°. And if your coolng system isn't working then you don't really know what temp you're running cause it needs water temp circulating to be accurate.
If you're not circulating water, either the water pump isn't working, the belt is turning the wrong way (could be reverse drive pump or not and belt wrong way) or tstat isn't working. DOES NOT MATTER IF IT'S NEW. Always test a thermostat in a pan before you install it. I just had a brand new one not work.
For posting pics, you have to become a contributing member, it's a tiny bit of money and totally worth it and then your pics are there forever for others who have the same problem. Nothing more annoying than wanting to see a picture from 10 years ago that someone posted to photo bucket and is no longer there and you can't see it.
Last edited:
Here you go.........This post is a great example of the value of being able to post pics.
https://www.classicbroncos.com/photoupload.shtml
Wow. There's some issues there. Can't imagine much surviving that. I've had my older 302 up to 245 but it was for a very short time. Still had a head gasket let go though.
It's flowing. Can see coolant flowing through the rad. Tstat is good, tested it. Always done that.
I'm a mechanic by trade, but this this has me baffled. It's not pushing the coolant into the heater. It has vintage air, but the inlets come in the side from passenger kick panel. Same as AC lines to the back of the vintage air box. I'm going to throw a new temp semsor in tomorrow. I switched the sensors around from the intake coolant passage to the tstat housing and it showed me 147° so I'm going to say the sensor is done!
The vent that is on top of the cowl/firewall , the hoses go through that, then down into the fender & in through the a pillar to the vintage air box.
Heater hoses as well as the upper rad hose is higher than the radiator. Great spots for air pockets to sit.
This whole truck is brand new. Only thing from a 74 is the vent window frames, & the frame. Has 19 miles on it.
The upper rad hose is chaffing the hood and both ac lines are too. Looks like someone took a hammer to the ac lines to bend them down.
The more I fix, the more I find.
I'm going to fill the heatercore with coolant at the service spout they out inline and see if I can get the air out of it that way.
I'm a mechanic by trade, but this this has me baffled. It's not pushing the coolant into the heater. It has vintage air, but the inlets come in the side from passenger kick panel. Same as AC lines to the back of the vintage air box. I'm going to throw a new temp semsor in tomorrow. I switched the sensors around from the intake coolant passage to the tstat housing and it showed me 147° so I'm going to say the sensor is done!
The vent that is on top of the cowl/firewall , the hoses go through that, then down into the fender & in through the a pillar to the vintage air box.
Heater hoses as well as the upper rad hose is higher than the radiator. Great spots for air pockets to sit.
This whole truck is brand new. Only thing from a 74 is the vent window frames, & the frame. Has 19 miles on it.
The upper rad hose is chaffing the hood and both ac lines are too. Looks like someone took a hammer to the ac lines to bend them down.
The more I fix, the more I find.
I'm going to fill the heatercore with coolant at the service spout they out inline and see if I can get the air out of it that way.
So the lines are set to run that way so that you don't have to cut any holes if you don't want to. It's ugly, but made for an easy DIY. If you saw what was there before, you'd understand.
I really don't think air pockets will sit in a heater hose no matter what you do with it, but I've never tested that theory and air will certainly not stop the flow of coolant through the heater core. You have something else going on...if coolant is flowing through the heater lines but not through the core, then something is stopping it, obviously...and you're sure the heater control valve is open? How do you know? It's an electronic valve from VA...I know you already said this stuff is clear, but this isn't making sense still.
I really don't think air pockets will sit in a heater hose no matter what you do with it, but I've never tested that theory and air will certainly not stop the flow of coolant through the heater core. You have something else going on...if coolant is flowing through the heater lines but not through the core, then something is stopping it, obviously...and you're sure the heater control valve is open? How do you know? It's an electronic valve from VA...I know you already said this stuff is clear, but this isn't making sense still.
Eliminate water pump from diagnosis.
Disconnect both heater hoses at the engine, one from intake manifold, other from water pump. Connect one of them to garden hose and see if water will pass thru heater core and coolant valve.
Disconnect both heater hoses at the engine, one from intake manifold, other from water pump. Connect one of them to garden hose and see if water will pass thru heater core and coolant valve.
And at 284° you will NOT see coolant flowing through the rad. You won't see anything...you'll be blind cause it just exploded in your face. You are way beyond boiling point of most mixes.
147° makes more sense.
I just cut it shorter and it should be fine.
Two times I've planned to fill this system up. I keep doing the prep and not being able to finish. I got a pump and gauge kit from Amazon and I like it, but the bottle adapter does not like the r134a bottles I picked up at Harbor Freight. So I went back and got the adapter from HF. Then go figure the thread for the hose is different and that won't work!!!
Anyway, gonna go try to return the bottles and adapter and get bottles elsewhere. Problem is the needle from my bottle adapter seems to seal the hole in the HF bottle and gas hardly comes out.
Two times I've planned to fill this system up. I keep doing the prep and not being able to finish. I got a pump and gauge kit from Amazon and I like it, but the bottle adapter does not like the r134a bottles I picked up at Harbor Freight. So I went back and got the adapter from HF. Then go figure the thread for the hose is different and that won't work!!!
Anyway, gonna go try to return the bottles and adapter and get bottles elsewhere. Problem is the needle from my bottle adapter seems to seal the hole in the HF bottle and gas hardly comes out.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
- Messages
- 9,358
Gotta love how all the AC "stuff" interchanges and makes it so easy to work on/install.
My neighbors had to listen to my engine run for a long time while filling the system.
Despite leak testing soooo many times and even left it overnight, one of my hose crimps is leaking. Not sure why but whatcha gonna do. Was nice to feel it blowing cold for a bit though.
Compressor oil went everywhere.
It was a hose inhd to change the end on after install and I prob didn't push it in all the way. At least my hose is long enough to just be able to redo the end, but gotta get another one.
Damn.
Despite leak testing soooo many times and even left it overnight, one of my hose crimps is leaking. Not sure why but whatcha gonna do. Was nice to feel it blowing cold for a bit though.
Compressor oil went everywhere.
It was a hose inhd to change the end on after install and I prob didn't push it in all the way. At least my hose is long enough to just be able to redo the end, but gotta get another one.
Damn.
