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Voltage issue after installing EFI

scolainsola

New Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
14
Loc.
Baton Rouge
When the engine is off, voltage is normal (running straight from the battery). When the engine is on, the car audio volume fluctuates wildly and the lights dim and brighten nonstop.

Before the EFI conversion, everything seemed to work normally. Is it the voltage regulator, and if so, where would I find it? What should I replace it with?

My engine is a 302. Under the hood I have a "Select" Short Circuit protection box leading to my battery (surge protection?). Other than that, I don't see anything else.
 

1sicbronconut

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
2,433
Are you still running the stock alternator? If so you need to upgrade the stock alternator won't work that great with EFI most folks go with a Ford 3G look here lots of info on the swap.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
Hey scolainsola, welcome to classicbroncos!
Any more information you can give us about the alternator? Where did you get it? I searched but don't see it listed anywhere under that name or part number. Lots of things close, but not exact.

Do you remember any of the statistics on it? Power output? Style? Internally or externally regulated? Did you install it, or was it that way when you got the Bronco?

If there is no longer a voltage regulator on the fender or firewall, then we can "assume" that it's internally regulated. But even then it's not guaranteed.

What type of gauge do you have in the instrument cluster for electrical checking? An original ammeter, or a replacement volt-meter? What is the gauge doing while you're seeing the fluctuations in everything else?

The fluctuations could come down to something you did with the wiring during the install of the EFI, such as not making for sufficient grounding. That, or more likely as not it's just another one of those "coincidental failures" that happen so often on our old vehicles. You do one thing, and another previously perfectly good thing starts acting up.

Maybe post up a pic of your engine compartment too, and we might be able to see something that can help.
To do that directly from your computer or phone, you have to be a contributor for 12 bucks a year. Otherwise you can use other image hosting sites like SuperMotors and such (but generally speaking, not PhotoBucket) and link the images here. Or you can upload them to your "garage" or "gallery" in your user CP.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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OP
scolainsola

scolainsola

New Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
14
Loc.
Baton Rouge
Any more information you can give us about the alternator? Where did you get it? I searched but don't see it listed anywhere under that name or part number. Lots of things close, but not exact.

Do you remember any of the statistics on it? Power output? Style? Internally or externally regulated? Did you install it, or was it that way when you got the Bronco?

It was there when I bought the Bronco. I think it may be externally regulated (see pics), but I can't be certain. Some of these parts are very old. I have attached pics.

What type of gauge do you have in the instrument cluster for electrical checking? An original ammeter, or a replacement volt-meter? What is the gauge doing while you're seeing the fluctuations in everything else?
I did not notice anything out of the ordinary on my ammeter. It is original.

See link

My Bronco Pics
 
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scolainsola

scolainsola

New Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
14
Loc.
Baton Rouge
It may be stock, but I don't think it is original. It has the words "remanufactured" listed on the label. If it is indeed stock, then it should be externally regulated, right? Would the "Select" white box (first pic) be the regulator?

If so, should I go ahead and replace both the alternator and the external regulator? Or does the Ford 3G have an internal regulator?
 

1sicbronconut

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
2,433
3G has a internal regulator what you have looks to be a stock set up with not enough clean out put to support a modern EFI set up. Do a search here for 3G and you get all the info you need.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
Having pics is a great help! thanks.
Agree with the others that you have a stock "style" of alternator, even though the original has obviously been replaced. As has the regulator, at least once.
And yes, that is your voltage regulator there on the firewall.

This type of alternator is capable of putting out more amperage if customized, but the typical range is 45 to 65 amps. Most modern ones are wired to put out about 65a though.
Agree with the others also, that the more modern, and higher output capable 3G is a nice upgrade for any Bronco. More so if you're running EFI of any kind.
Also the internal regulator does simplify wiring and clean up the engine compartment because you can get rid of your old one.

But there are other things at work here too possibly. Even with EFI your charging system should not be pulsing like that. You should check your wiring condition and grounds.
With all setups, but especially with EFI, you should make sure you have good grounds everywhere. Battery to body, battery to engine block, engine block to body, etc...

The one downside to the more powerful alternators is belt squeal. A couple of simple cures are available, depending on how your rig is set up and what you like to do.
A larger diameter pulley on the alternator will help by giving your belt more grip.
A dual-sheave pulley will help by the same fashion, but a little more effectively perhaps. But you have to have matching dual-sheave (groove) pulleys on the crank and water pump as well.
Or you can convert the front accessory drive from the standard V-belt to a more modern serpentine belt system.
All three are effective, but some more so than others depending on where you want to end up.

We don't need much alternator power in our Broncos usually, but adding computers for controlling EFI and all that stuff really changes things. That's where a modern internally regulated and more powerful alternator comes in very handy. Gives forth with good clean and steady power even at idle. Which is where your stock style alternator starts to suffer a bit.

However, no matter what you do, you should be checking your wiring condition for any broken, stiff, burned or corroded wires and connections. Everywhere of course, but especially with regard to the regulator and the alternator.
Easy to pull it out and check things for tightness and cleanliness, and even take the alternator down to the local parts store to have them test it for you. Not all shops can, but these days most of them have that capability.

I suppose you could measure the voltage output on the Orange "F" (for "field") wire on the regulator to see if it's got a pulsing voltage. If all the wires check out, replacing the regulator might just do the trick.
About half the time this happens it's the alternator, and the other half of the time it's the regulator. Not sure exactly how to test a regulator though. Probably a way...

Good luck. Bottom line is you will probably not regret paying the extra money up front for a 3G alternator.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
Great! Thanks.
Now hopefully you don't melt your Bronco putting one in!%);D

Remember that the alternator is directly connected to the positive side of the battery. So whenever working on one, disconnect the battery!
Don't ask me how I learned this lesson!

Paul
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Clean under the voltage regulator mounting bolts to the body. There must be clean steel between the voltage regulator and the body. Same thing goes for the starter solenoid mounted on the fender. There must be a clean ground wire from the negative battery post to bare steel on the body. Ford uses the steel body instead of wire to make the negative connections.

Then if that doesn't work for you then consider the 3G alternator swap.

https://bcbroncos.com/wp-content/uploads/3g_a17a8148-07ef-4fdd-b4e4-2b60394389cd-1.pdf
 
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