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Warn 20990 Locking hub. HELP!!

Lon L

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Jul 19, 2015
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254
I installed a new spindle from Wild Horses , along with new disc brake rotor, bearings and seals.It seems to fit as expected , the rotor assembly rotates freely and it appears the placement is correct. The problem appears when installing the locking hub. It will not go in more than a 1/2 ". It sounds if it is making metal to metal contact and will not go in the rotor any deeper. When I measure from the end of the outer axle to the leading edge of the spindle it measures almost 1 1/2". The measurement of the depth of the locking hub is around 1 1/4". So my problem is the math does not add up. Why will the Warn 20990 premium locking hub not install ?

I have removed everything 3 times to check, spindle bearings seated and seal flush and not protruding.
 

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1sicbronconut

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What's the spec's on your disc brakes? can't see for sure but it almost looks like your hub body is hitting the spindle?
 
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Lon L

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So after taking a break I I removed the Rotor Hub to verify that the Warn hub would drop in and sit flush. It did, so I then took the Warn Hub, and with the Brake rotor still removed I slid the Warn hub over the axle splines and it slid all the way to the to the end. So now I remove the Warn and slide the Brake rotor back on and I am right back to the same problem, it only goes in maybe 5/8" .
 

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Lon L

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lube it up and a gentle tap with a hammer?

I have not brought the hammer out yet, but I did try to tap it with the heel of my hand.

I have my son coming over tomorrow to try his fresh and young eyes. I am getting old and things once easy are not so easy these days :)
 

Broncobowsher

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Looking at the stub axle going through the spindle. It doesn't looks centered.

Do you have the spindle bearings installed?
 
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Lon L

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Looking at the stub axle going through the spindle. It doesn't looks centered.

Do you have the spindle bearings installed?

yes, the spindle bearing and seal were installed already. there is no play in the spindle, and the axle shaft spins freely when twisting the drive shaft yoke.
 

Kalex

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Mar 29, 2007
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Did you try turning the hub while pushing in the locking hub assembly?
 

Kalex

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I just did mine Lon and that what was worked for me. With one hand I slowly turned it clockwise while lightly pushing the assembly in with the other hand. Both went in the exact same way using that method.

Also, once you install that outer ring in the groove. Take two of the hub screws and screw them in a little in a couple of the holes 180 degrees apart. Side to side or top and bottom. Then push and pull on the whole assembly to make sure it moves just a little. Not much; but a little. If it doesn’t budge then you have to check some things out.

Also, I turned it very little before they went in. Not even remotely close to a quarter turn or anything.
 
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Yeller

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Tap it with a mallet while slowly turning the hub. It’s not engaging the outer spline in the hub. With everything in place the tolerances are all very close sometimes it takes some persuasion to get it all to fit together.
 
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Lon L

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Thanks for the input guys I will hit it today and update later
 
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Lon L

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Just an update to say there is no update. Got Rona, no energy to work. Stay safe, I hope to get back in the garage soon.
 

DirtDonk

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Good luck! Hope it's a mild case, nobody else gets it, and you get over it soon. Just be sure you do!

On the parts problem (the Bronco's, not yours!) in that pic #1 of Post #5, the locking assembly is most definitely NOT installed all the way. The silver machined ring around it must sit below the surface of the bearing hub far enough that the large locking ring can fit into the slot in the hub. Yours is still half an inch at least shy of that depth.

So this could be that you have two issues. The initial one is that you have to make sure that your bearing hub has splines that are cut deep enough for the lockout mechanism to fit.
This issue with the hub splines not being machined deep enough is a known problem for a couple of years now. Is that hub from us? Or just the spindle? We were supposed to be checking the fit of every hub with a depth checker (a Warn lockout most likely) to be sure we don't fall into that pit again.
Apparently stock factory Dana/Spicer lockouts fit still, but the manufacturers of hubs are getting cheap and saving a few pennies by casting in less material and machining shorter splines. Good for them, over millions of units, but bad for us end-users.

The second issue should not be too bad. That's the slight misalignment of the two spline shafts trying to coordinate during the install. As the others have said, a little spinning, a little lifting and a little tapping should do the trick. But you still have to get that metal ring with the six threaded holes down beyond the big ring groove in the hub.

While you have it apart however, another common issue is sloppy machining and handling of the hubs, where there might be a tiny burr or deformity on the splines, or even shipping damage where the hub is no longer perfectly round.
These are easy enough to check, but you have to do your diligent inspection of the splined area to make sure it's free of any of those defects.

Good luck.

Paul
 

gr8scott

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So this could be that you have two issues. The initial one is that you have to make sure that your bearing hub has splines that are cut deep enough for the lockout mechanism to fit.
This issue with the hub splines not being machined deep enough is a known problem for a couple of years now.

Dang Paul, I'm glad I got your kit some 20 years ago!

in that pic #1 of Post #5, the locking assembly is most definitely NOT installed all the way. The silver machined ring around it must sit below the surface of the bearing hub far enough that the large locking ring can fit into the slot in the hub. Yours is still half an inch at least shy of that depth.

You're right. Here's what mine looks like installed. Dang spiders...
 

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gr8scott

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Hey Lon, in pic #1 of post #5 that Paul referenced, the locking hub is not aligned with the hub at all. There's a gap that starts at
6 o'clock to 9 o'clock (and probably beyond that). As was mentioned previously, the tolerances are very tight. You might want
to try that test again and get them aligned better, just to make sure it will go in far enough and you don't have that spline issue
Paul mentioned. Good Luck!
 

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Lon L

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Thanks for the hints, once I get back some strength and feel like being in the garage I will try the things you suggest. I do appreciate you guys taking the time to help :)
 
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Lon L

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You guys were right (never had a doubt ). Leave off the small C clip for the Warn hubs and tap the locking hubs in. It was a really tight fit, but a couple of firm hits with the heel of my hand and it goes in nice and flush.
 

73azbronco

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I have always had to use some fine, say 1000 sandpaper and clean up the inside of every old axle with regards to getting a new hub in.

If you tap it in, how hard will it be to get it out at a later time?
 
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