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Warn Premium Hubs, Front Disc Conversion

ryan97

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
195
Loc.
Richmond
My front hub (drivers side in particular) on my 73 just started making a clicking noise. Very obvious with truck off and rolling fwd or rev in neutral. Sound actually starts to go away at 5-10 mph. I just rebuilt the truck and installed Warn Premium Hubs 1 yr ago. I have been thinking my next project would be the Horsepowersales front disc conversion and now that I need to open the Hubs, seems like a good time.
However, in reading this post(http://classicbroncos.com/tech/chevy-disc-brake-conversion) it shows the spring is to be left out with Warn Premium Hub install, not required.
Is that so for all cases?
That may be my issue, I re-installed the spring last year when I put the Premium Hubs in. No where in the instructions does it say to leave it out...
Any advise on the Hubs/spring appreciated and also on horsepowersales front disc install.
 
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ryan97

ryan97

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
195
Loc.
Richmond
Thanks - sure would be nice if they put that in the instructions!
I started looking at it today and 4 of the 6 long set screws that hold the hub in are sheared...
Guess I will go ahead and order the front disc conversion since I need to tear the Hubs down. Hopefully I don't find other damage to the Warn Hubs and can just replace the screws...
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
16,008
Loc.
Stockton, CA
When you bought a set of brand new Warns, why would you expect that all the parts to install them wouldn't come in the box? I would not expect a brand new assembly of something to require me to use used parts off of what I was replacing...
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,455
...sure would be nice if they put that in the instructions!

They did, and do. It's almost the first thing on their sheet.
But I will admit that it's somehow hard to discern, just like the Red wire thing on the Pertronix instructions. They're both right there, and both hard to understand with the way they're drawn. But the writing is clear enough.

Guess I will go ahead and order the front disc conversion since I need to tear the Hubs down.

Well, I'm all for disc brakes on these things, but really a five minute job on removing the locking mechanism is hardly justification for replacing the whole front outer end. After all, to remove the lockouts you don't even need to jack the truck up. Just a few screws (not in your case though!) and two clips and you're done.
You can even drive the truck as long as you cover the opening to keep road debris out of the bearings.

But like I said, I'm a big fan of disc brake swaps. I just think that it's almost the other way around. Do the swap and while you're in there work on the hubs.

Hopefully I don't find other damage to the Warn Hubs and can just replace the screws...

Probably not going to happen. Crossing fingers anyway, but if you sheared the screws, something locked up inside. And you were hearing that clicking as well.
But the fact that the spring was left inside is what you will be looking for. The usual carnage is the spring acting like a milling machine and gouging a nice big cavity into the back of your aluminum Warn inner section.
If you're lucky this did not happen, but in most cases it does eventually.
Just wondering what ultimately made the screws shear though.

Paul
 
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ryan97

ryan97

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
195
Loc.
Richmond
Thanks for the help guys. I just assumed the the spring was required for the Hubs and it was not clear to me in the instructions. I have only ever had and removed/reinstalled favorite hubs on my Broncos. First experience with aftermarket.
I still don't see in these instructions where it says remove/ discard/ don't use the spring https://www.gowarn.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=WAR_20990_INS_1.pdf&line=WAR which is identical to the sheet in my box.
I will take the passenger side off, remove spring and if no damage reinstall. On the Drivers side I will have to get all the screws out first. But will probably tear it down further in case any metal/shavings are in the grease, clean, inspect regrease and reinstall.
 
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thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
16,008
Loc.
Stockton, CA
I still don't see in these instructions where it says remove/ discard/ don't use the spring https://www.gowarn.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=WAR_20990_INS_1.pdf&line=WAR which is identical to the sheet in my box.

1. Remove existing hublocks

6. Install body assembly and large lock ring into wheel hub housing

It shows all of the parts to remove in the first step. The first installation step says to install the body assembly. Nowhere does it say to reinstall the spring you removed in step 1.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,455
Well crap Ryan. They went and updated the instructions finally. And actually managed to make them worse if that was possible!:eek:
Which I didn't think it was...

Not sure when these were redone, and it has been about two years since I even looked at a copy. Since they'd been virtually the same for the prior 20 years or so, I only check now and then. Hoping to see an update clarifying the spring thing.
And those I saw could have been an older copy for all I know, but I think I pulled them out of a box at work.
So come on Warn! Get it together after almost 50 years will ya!

Sorry Ryan. Good products generally and I like the people. And some of them have been friends for many years. But I've literally been complaining about the instructions since the late 80's any time I thought I had their ear. Which apparently I didn't...

In the drawings in your link, they act like the only factory lockouts were from Warn! Pretty arrogant I would say, considering that just as many trucks being changed over were using Spicer hubs as were using Warn, if not more.
They show a diagram that makes it look like Warn has been the supplier to the OE's since the beginning. Which they were not. And that the only time you need to worry about the spring is if you have drive flanges. Which certainly was not!
They do hint to remove it of course, but not in so many words and the diagrams don't indicate that very well either. It's there, but you practically have to divine it with intuition.
I can see where they might think that, since you remove the spring with a drive slug, anyone should figure it should be removed with a lockout too. But what if the lockout in question doesn't look like the one in their diagram?

They did become the OE supplier of course, but it was not until the very late seventies or early eighties that they replaced the Spicer hubs as the factory lockout.
Apparently anything before that no longer exists in their minds. Especially if it can net them a few extra sales because they were not clear in their instructions.
And on top of all the other crap, they still refuse to even mention a spring in words in the text. Even though, from the very beginning of people swapping in Warn lockouts (late sixties maybe?), the spring thing has been THE issue causing trouble. I think I saw my first spring-caused failure in the late seventies.
For all those years, it's been one of the single most common product installation mistakes around.

If you were the cynical type then, it would almost make you think they want you to destroy your new hubs so you can buy another one. Must be the sales department managers way of doing business. Same reasoning I suppose, where they justify charging for a single hub about 80% of a pair.%) I'm sure it does cost them more to sell just one, and yes business is business, but it's still cheeseball business in my book. Not everyone needs to replace two of them at a time. But for only 20% more, they know you'll take the bait.

So yes, as Justin said, it does "say" to remove the old stuff. But they make you interpret what they mean when you're not really familiar with the product to begin with. Not everyone is going to realize that the spring is part of the old assembly ONLY, and has nothing to do with the new stuff. After all, it's not a gear, right?
Factory locking hubs are like a Chinese puzzle the first time you open them up. But once you know them, everything seems obvious. Before that, not so much.

Apparently it seems too obvious to Warn to even bother detailing it in their (otherwise very nicely laid out) instruction sheet.
But you would hope that after hearing complaints for so many years someone would have actually thought it was important to us out here.
While they never actually say to put the spring back in ("remove the old hublock") and they did say to take all the old stuff out, they don't make it clear that a hublock might have the spring. And the spring was only in the old stuff, but not in their pic.

Sorry you had to run afoul of it. Maybe there needs to be a permanent article here on the forums, listing all the easy little product pitfalls that we should not run into, but still do. Not everyone will read it before doing lockouts of course, but if we can save a few the grief, that would be great.
Maybe I can get us to mention it on our website instead. Not the same, but worth a shot anyway.

Good luck. Hopefully it's all in one piece and not too much in the way of aluminum debris is inside yours.
By the way, have you taken yours off yet? Curious what you end up finding.
At least it doesn't take much time to find out. Lots of hand-cleaner afterwards sometimes(!), but not much time.
Hopefully it's ok. And like mentioned, you can drive the truck even with them removed. Takes a few extra minutes to cover the open hub with some duct tape or (as I once did) a baggie with rubber bands.
Works great until you need four wheel drive.;)

Paul
 
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ryan97

ryan97

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
195
Loc.
Richmond
Paul thanks for the response and you must be able to type way faster than me!! Yes I did take both hubs off last night and both sides had 3-4 of the cap screws sheared off which I was able to back out with small needle nose pliers. I did remove the spring. No sign of any gouging on the hub assembly (backsides or outer teeth). All looked OK and no signs of metal in the grease. I have only put 300 miles on the truck since my rebuild last year so the grease was still clear, red bearing grease. The springs did show some mild rubbing on both end (flat sides). I haven't had enough time to think about why those screws sheared and where they did and why there was no other damage - but not going to look a gift horse in the mouth either. Passenger side when lifted off the ground (for curiosity) still free spun with no noise...
I am *mildly mechanically inclined* and willing to tackle any job other than bodywork. However through all my years of broncos and tear downs of hubs and bearings etc my trucks have only had OEM hubs (manual and automatics) so for a first time aftermarket install I still do not think their instructions are clear. If you have done it before it seems logical. I had my father-in-law (garage mechanic) and my wife (smarter than me?!?) read them and neither one of them interpreted the pictures correctly or that the spring is removed and not used. I also had my Mopar buddy who helped me on some of the truck rebuild read them (and he has done hubs on his trucks many times as well) and it was not clear to him either.... the best description was in the link I referenced in above on the front disc conversion where it says "do not re-install this spring". I guess it is too hard for Warn to say...
I will send an email to Warn suggesting an update - but sounds like your advice has already fallen on deaf ears!
I have already ordered new cap screws today and will be ordering the front disc conversion for the 72 & 73 with best intentions to get them on soon, but suspect the boxes will sit in my garage for weeks given kids sports and hunting season until I get tired of walking around the boxes and possibly get them installed over the winter...
As always Paul thanks for your sagest advice.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,455
Paul thanks for the response and you must be able to type way faster than me!!

Usually faster than I think!

both sides had 3-4 of the cap screws sheared off which I was able to back out with small needle nose pliers.

I have no idea what causes this. I've seen it before plenty of times, but frankly haven't heard of it happening in quite awhile. Something was catching though, and just perhaps the springs had something to do with it. Seems farfetched a bit, but maybe not impossible.

No sign of any gouging on the hub assembly (backsides or outer teeth). All looked OK and no signs of metal in the grease.

Fantastic news that!

The springs did show some mild rubbing on both end (flat sides).

Probably normal wear from the stock application.
Hmm, I wonder if gouging the aluminum or not has anything to do with the condition of the spring ends? Seems plausible. A smoother flat end with a little grease (and yours was still a relatively new install) can glide over things much longer before any damage starts.

I am *mildly mechanically inclined* and willing to tackle any job other than bodywork. However through all my years of broncos and tear downs of hubs and bearings etc my trucks have only had OEM hubs (manual and automatics) so for a first time aftermarket install I still do not think their instructions are clear. If you have done it before it seems logical. I had my father-in-law (garage mechanic) and my wife (smarter than me?!?) read them and neither one of them interpreted the pictures correctly or that the spring is removed and not used. I also had my Mopar buddy who helped me on some of the truck rebuild read them (and he has done hubs on his trucks many times as well) and it was not clear to him either.... the best description was in the link I referenced in above on the front disc conversion where it says "do not re-install this spring". I guess it is too hard for Warn to say...

Yeah, something needs to be done about this finally. I'm not sure who writes their instructions, but they probably have not installed many (or any) locking hubs on older trucks.
A write-in campaign from all members here, and all those that have run afoul of this over the last, say, 30 years or so (to keep them from getting overwhelmed after all) should do it.;)

I will send an email to Warn suggesting an update - but sounds like your advice has already fallen on deaf ears!

But maybe it takes more of the consumers complaining than just their customers? I've seen that attitude with warranty complaints and such with other companies. They don't want to hear it at first when we talk, but as soon as an end user calls in they're all over the problem.
Most companies don't act that way luckily, but it happens often enough to know it's not just one or two isolated cases.

And no matter what, let's hope for no more sheared screws!

Good luck.

Paul
 
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