Water pump replacement - tips not to break bolts

[JohnJohn]

I am dealing with an over heating issue on the trail. I am running a Derale 2 speed 17" electric fan. I confirmed my fan is triggering high speed at around 180 and I replaced the thermostat just in case but the old one tested out on the stove.
I am down to converting it to a manual fan or replacing the water pump.
My fear is breaking bolts trying to put a new plump on. Any tips before I dig in?
The last engine I worked on required me to chisel the timming cover off.
Or if the pump is not weaping then is it safe to assume it's ok?

 

[langester]

I have had good and bad luck in the past. I had good luck the last time with an air ratchet or a small impact gun. When the bolt acted like it might break I rattled it a little bit both directions (gently of course) until it finally came loose, that seemed to work out fairly well. In my experience sometimes it is just going to happen, then the work starts. I look forward to hearing other responses, these bolts have always been a problem child.
Good luck with it!

 

[SteveL]

How bad is it overheating? Temp running higher than u want or pegging the needle. If it's just a little higher than you want you could try water wetter. Another option is an air dam above the grill(wh sells em). Theres vented fender wells. Also what radiator?

 

[JohnJohn]

I have a new original style radiator thanks to the PO. The electric fan is mounted directly against the radiator with no shroud but I have not had issues in the past. The high speed pulls 2100 CFM.
I can wheel for a bit but when we go on long hill climbs in low it will start to climb in temp. I have a full sweep temp gauge with a sensor in the rear driver water port on a Mustang EFI engine.
When it hits 220 I pull over and sit for 20 min. I hate being "That Guy".

If the pump is not weaping then how could it be a problem?

My coolant is good and new also.

 

[JohnJohn]

I went for a 30 min ride and it was from 190 to 200 in 76 degree weather. I would prefer 190 all day in a 1992 EFI 302 with a 180 thermostat.

 

[SteveL]

You could also try one of those reverse flush kits. When we swapped a new 351 in my 6y it would randomly heat up in traffic but not always. That's in la heat. I started replacing parts and nothing helped. I did that cheap flush kit and the problem went away. Must've had some crap in the cooling system from the rebuild that would randomly plug it up. Just sucks I spent so much time and money chasing it.

 

[blubuckaroo]

If you don’t know the car’s maintenance history, replace the water pump. I’ve found it much easier with the grill off. You’re less apt to break stuff when access is better.

 

[sanndmann3]

Those 2 waterpump bolts are the biggest pain for me. Watching this thread for suggestions. only one I can offer is heat from a torch to help break thing loose... Too bad junk yards don't allow torches.

 

[TheLimeRanger]

that was my biggest fear when i did mine also. i hit it with the impact gun and they came right out. i did however replace all of the bolts with the kit from Toms, and before i buttoned it all back together i chased the threads.

 

[nvrstuk]

Smoke?
How long has the overheating been happening...?

Torch isn't very effective when you are heating the end of the of a 4" long bolt...

A Derale 17" 2 spd is not as efficient as OE.

Also, a Derale fan isn't covering the entire radiator like a shroud does so you are losing efficiency there also. It all adds up... causing heating issues like you're having.

Go with a FlowKooler wtrpump if you're replacing it. Careful when you bolt it in as they are having clearance issues btw the impellor and the timing cover. Do your research on it. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/early_bronco_water_pumps

 

[jckkys]

The repeated problem of stuck water pump bolts lead me to ask engine builders who do several a day. They all said to use RTV Blue on the threads of the long bolts that pass into the water jacked. My problem with these bolts seemed to be a result of coolant reacting with the aluminum timing cover. White aluminum oxide packed the bolt hole freezing the bolt so completely the bolt breaks instead of turning. I had to drill out the bolt. There's RTV in the threads now.

 

[clinem03]

I had 3 that were broken off. We used a torch to heat the bolts after sacrificing the timing chain cover to get it off, and expose more of the bolts. It was a real pain, but after some work they came out.

 

[blubuckaroo]

The repeated problem of stuck water pump bolts lead me to ask engine builders who do several a day. They all said to use RTV Blue on the threads of the long bolts that pass into the water jacked. My problem with these bolts seemed to be a result of coolant reacting with the aluminum timing cover. White aluminum oxide packed the bolt hole freezing the bolt so completely the bolt breaks instead of turning. I had to drill out the bolt. There's RTV in the threads now.

This is a great recommendation.
I've been putting water pumps on small block Ford motors since the '60s in high school auto shop. We were told to use Permatex 2 on threads that are drilled through or will see coolant. The tar-like sealant doesn't harden, and will work much like an anti-seize.
In this case, these long bolts will usually corrode mid-shaft, and not in the threads. I goop the sealant on the entire length of the bolt.

 

[nvrstuk]

We still need background on your cooling issues, when they started occuring, how old is the waterpump and if you've changed anything before or after the issue (other than the t-stat)

 

[Rustytruck]

I am guessing its because of the auto tranny and 4.11 gearing with oversize tires. borrow a set of 33" tires and see if the over heating stops.

 

[JohnJohn]

I am running 38"s with 4.56 gears and lockers front and rear. This is my 90% trail only Bronco. It ran fine around 190 all the time but I started having relay problems for the fan. It's a 17" Derale two speed fan mounted to the radiator with no shroud. The problem is after 30 min of slow hill climbing the heat starts to creep up until I shut it down at 220 to 230 to cool off. Letting it sit and idle does not cool it fast enough if it even could cool itself down at idle.
The coolant tested good and is new, the 180 Mr Gasket thermostat is now new. My plan is to get a 2" body lift fan shroud form Toms and an 18" 6 blade reverse rotation fan with a small spacer. I have just under 3" of room and this should all fit.
If this does not work I will go for the dreaded waterpump and be ready to chisel off the timing cover if needed.

I never see any smoke or steam at all but I could hear pinging when it got up to 230.

 

[73azbronco]

PB blaster and heat. Every impact wrench use has resulted in sheered off bolts for me. And thats the little hand held battery hex bit dewalt, not the 3/4 inch monster truck one. Try tightening just a little, then back and forth, then off.