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Well damn...

broncobuddha

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
233
Pulling out of a parking lot and stock 28 spline small bearing axle gave it up.

Mini spool, 35s and a hard life finally proved too much. Sigh ...

Broke outside of the bearing. The caliper bracket is the only thing that held the wheel on.

Now I have to replace them. Do we still not really have any options beyond a big bearing housing swap or having the BB ends welded on?

JBG seems to have a hard bed 28 spline kit with small bearings. Possible option?

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SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,771
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Probably the 35s and spool. I had a stock axle take a dump on the 66 pulling out of the liquor store. 351w, 35s with open diff. I just ordered a replacement from wh.. I have a 77 housing with 31spline moly axles on the bench to eventually go in.
 

Johnnyb

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2001
Messages
986
Loc.
Flagstaff
You are lucky, mine broke doing 70 outside Ely NV (drum brakes), so the wheel left the EB. The WH Big Bearing housing is not too expensive but I noticed that the tapered bearings seem to have disappeared from the site?? Anyone know why?

-JB
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
The WH Big Bearing housing is not too expensive but I noticed that the tapered bearings seem to have disappeared from the site?? Anyone know why?
The only one that looks to be missing, is the small bearing tapered roller replacement.
Is that the one you’re talking about?

I’ll check into it, but it’s probably an availability issue. I noticed that we still have the 31-spline small bearing tapered axle assemblies, so we at least have a certain supply of the bearing or we wouldn’t be able to deliver the assembled axles.

Could also be a lack of demand issue. It’s kind of a specialty bearing, and not much call for it except for replacements for our 31 spline axles.
And I think, instead of replacing those bearings with same, more and more people are simply upgrading the housing, and going with the larger (and much less expensive), stronger axles with large tapered set-20.
But that’s just a SWAG at this point.

Let you know what I find out. If anything…
 

DirtDonk

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Now I have to replace them. Do we still not really have any options beyond a big bearing housing swap or having the BB ends welded on?

JBG seems to have a hard bed 28 spline kit with small bearings. Possible option?
Certainly an option.
How long did the this set up last under these conditions? Have you been running them for a long time and they just now broke?
There’s always the option of just putting someone’s old throwaway stock 28 axles in.
Also aftermarket like you noted. We have them as well.

But, I would certainly give a hard look to spend the money now, and just going for it and putting the bigger axles in now.
It does require a new housing or welding new ends on your old one. The new housing sounds like a better option to me, though, given the costs relative to each.
Unless you do all your own work, a brand new big end housing probably is cheaper than finding someone to weld on the ends.
And with the new housing, you have your old stock housing to sell. So there’s that.
But I would definitely consider upgrading at this point. It’s your big chance.
To apend money!

Of course, you could get a new housing, keep the 28 spline differential, and simply go with Big bearing 28 spline axles.
Since your splines aren’t what broke, and only the end snapped off, maybe the big bearing setup, would cure that, with its larger diameter shaft.
Then again, if these were original, it was probably your bearings getting old that put the final nail in the coffin. Maybe you can get another hundred thousand miles and 45 years out of a set of stock axles.
Want to take that chance?
 
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broncobuddha

broncobuddha

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
233
Thanks, Paul.

These were the factory 50 year old axles but they've had the bearings replaced within the last few years.

Mini spool has been in for the better part of 15 years or longer. 35"s have been on for at least 2 years.

I've got a local buddy with a set of stock axles with bearings already on them. I may swap one out just to be able to limp it around for now.

Something in the brake line broke as it peed out the fluid. Not sure if a hardline got kinked or it's the flex hose.

I've been looking at the options. Finding a junkyard big bearing housing is probably impossible. I know the new housings you all sell aren't terribly expensive (except maybe for shipping).

I'm trying to weigh the cost differences between welding on the BB ends vs doing a whole swap. Though I assume the assembly we need to come out from under the truck regardless.
 

DirtDonk

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Have to check the axle housing. It’s on sale right now. (no it's not. Just a mistake in the numbering system)
Not sure if that means a discounted price, free shipping, or something else. Usually if it’s free shipping, there is a big “free shipping!“ emblazoned across the page. I don’t see that right now on my phone.
If it’s free shipping, though, that might be just enough to put your decision over the precipice! :)
 
Last edited:

69_Sport

Full Member
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Nov 5, 2014
Messages
266
I'd say, despite the breakage, that you are very lucky.
Running a spool on the street for 15 years? Yep, lucky.
 
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broncobuddha

broncobuddha

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Messages
233
I mean I was told by the shop that installed it years ago that they weren't strong. However, I've beat the hell out of it.

Well, I'm zeroing in on the option I'm going to go with.

Same buddy responsible for the amazing welds on my caliper brackets has a big bearing, early bronco rear end with 28 spline BB axles. He's gonna let me have it all for $300. Hard to beat I'd say.

I can drop my chunk in, get new caliper brackets welded on and pretty much be back on the road.

I can upgrade to 31 splines later on. I'm going to eventually ditch the mini spool for a lock rite as that's what I'm running in the front diff.
 

DirtDonk

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Sounds like the mini spool put less stress on the axles than an actual locker. Probably the sudden inputs of the locker are detrimental to the health of a 28-spline axle. Whereas the smoother application of stress, albeit probably just as much overall, might help 28-spline axles to live longer.
Apparently so in your case at least!
I know several people with Detroit lockers who have broken 28 axles on the street.
And the manufacturer hasn’t made 28-spline versions of their lockers in 25 years, simply because of the high instance of axle breakage being so common.
Or whatever…😉😁
 

DirtDonk

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Then again, I could be wrong. They may have been asking about the Set-20 after all.

In the meantime, the small tapered bearing is still available. Just not shown on the site as a separate item. Just as part of the HD axle assemblies.
Probably to keep someone from buying them, thinking they can be installed on their stock axles. Not sure they can't be, but the Set-20 cannot be installed on a stock big bearing Bronco axle. Only on a stock axle designed for that particular bearing.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Turns out the housing is not currently on special. That's why there was no mention of special pricing, or shipping or anything like that on the site. Just a little mislabeled number caught my eye and made me think something was going on this month.
Sorry about the confusion.

Paul
 
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broncobuddha

broncobuddha

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
233
Turns out the housing is not currently on special. That's why there was no mention of special pricing, or shipping or anything like that on the site. Just a little mislabeled number caught my eye and made me think something was going on this month.
Sorry about the confusion.

Paul
No worries.

I'm going with my buddy's big bearing rear with the 28 spline axles and an open diff for now. I'm ditching the spool. When I get to upgrading to 31 splines I'll put a Lock Rite in it.

Paul, I have a question.....since I'm going the inexpensive route here, there is something that would make sense to address while the rear housing is out..... my rear leaf springs. They are 50 year old stockers that I've been running on blocks. Yeah, I know.

Way back when, when I first got my bronco almost 30 years ago, it was stock height. I ended getting a used 2.5" Duff's lift from a friend. It was just the front coils, so I threw what I believe are 2" blocks under my stock leafs and it's been that way since. Sat level etc....

Would the 2.5" leaf packs on your site make the rear sit higher than the front do you think? 30 years of my teeth rattling is long enough.
 

DirtDonk

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No flaming about blocks from this quarter. I use them on both of my Broncos right now!

Yes, to both of your questions. The asked one about the height, and the unasked one about the ride.
The ride will still be firm, but less harsh than the old springs. And most likely the rear will sit high.

The ride harshness also comes from tires and shocks. So don’t forget that.
If you’re still running old harsh and possibly worn out shocks, and old, stiff and aged out tires, you won’t see the full benefit of the more compliant springs.

It might sit high for two reasons. Well, three reasons maybe.
One is that, at 2 1/2 inches, it probably would’ve sat a little high in the rear anyway, because that’s how many Broncos came from the factory. Especially those with half cabs or higher GVWR rated springs.
And two, like you said, 30 years is a long time and the coil springs may have sagged a bit. But you can take some measurements to verify that.
Measure between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rails on both sides. Report what your measurements are. Anything over 7 inches is your approximate lift.

The other thing is that the modern rear leaves do tend to sit a little high at least in the beginning. Sometimes a lot!
It’s somewhat to do with them being new, but that’s not really a thing because they should be made at the correct height with the vehicle weight on it. Which assumes that all Broncos weigh the same, all are built the same, and all were outfitted the same from the factory.
Which they were not originally, and almost never are now!
And if they were made to sit perfectly level then there is no room for loading, or sagging/settling over time at all.

There can be a huge difference in our vehicle’s weight over the rear these days.
Yours gonna be heavy or light?
Do you want level when empty, or when loaded with people and “stuff” instead?
Which then begs the question, what do you plan to use the bronco for? Ever going to carry camping gear? Ever going to tow a trailer? Ever going to haul adults in the back?
Enquiring minds want to know. 😁
 
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broncobuddha

broncobuddha

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Apr 9, 2007
Messages
233
Thanks, Paul. I run a full top in the winter. I do keep the rear seat in and haul my teens around.

No tire carrier etc.

Shocks are newer all around.

I'll try to get that measurement tomorrow.

I asked because something in head was telling me that most lift kits had the leafs about half an inch lower than the front for leveling purposes.

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broncobuddha

broncobuddha

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Apr 9, 2007
Messages
233
Got some measurements for you, Paul.

If it matters, the rear of the bronco is currently supported by extra tall jackstands under the rear bumper so it's sitting higher than the front.

The front, still on the tires and loaded measured:

Passenger top of axle tube to bottom of frame: 8 1/4"
Driver top of axle tube to bottom of frame: 8 1/2"

So, front is roughly 1.5". I double checked the blocks I was using and they are 2".

Guessing if I was going to go through the trouble of changing out the rears, I might as well spend the extra $200 to get matching front springs.
 
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