What's going to break when you add HP & Torque?

[Yeller]

They both work. I personally like the Duff set up because I've built a bunch of them and they do a good job of controlling wheel hop if things get smoky LOL. but in theory the WH works and does the most important thing, keeps you from spitting the driveshaft out.

 

[nvrstuk]

... and since there's always a different way....

Are you street only with limited axle travel or going to go off road with full suspension travel movement? I'm opening up a debate we had just last month on whether the design/installation of both allows full movement of the suspension AND whether the Duff system actually works (it definitely does) and is worth the extra money (it is). You are getting driveshafts made so tell Tom Wood's shop how much spline extension your shaft needs and you'll be good.

Picture your anti-wrap being built at ride height with bushings at each end and it isn't in the exact same plane (parallel) and same length and the attachment points aren't exactly the same as your DS. Now allow your rear end to droop like when you catch a big whooop in the trail or on sand and your rear end drops down the full 8" or more till your suspension quits travelling. How is that bind of the bushings and the "not equal arcs" of the driveshaft and the anti-wrap bar going to allow your suspension to travel down 8" w/o bind?

 

[1969]

My personal preference..

WFO Torque Arm Kits

Stop axle wrap! We offer a variety of different size axle tube brackets and DOM lengths depending on where you are going to mount on the axle/housing. The shackle end can be flipped either direction

www.wfoconcepts.com

 

[Broncobowsher]

I am a fan of the torque arm (Duff or WFO). I made one before either were around out of a front radius arm. welded some wedges on the 9", fitted the arm. Used a leaf spring shackle frame bracket on the frame to take out the for/aft binding. For the shackle I used a tractor 3-point heim and a universal poly leaf spring/motor mount/cage mount bushing. Didn't impact ride quality at all and never had any axle wrap/hop issues.

 

[nvrstuk]

I've installed many aftermarket antiwrap setups. RuffStuff, WFO, etc. I made a 3 pt mount setup on top of the 9" housing to keep the thin stock housing material from just peeling off- distributed the load by 1/3. Lasted for at least 15 (edit: years) till I bent the 3/8" (edit: wall) DOM. Had a shackle directly over the dbl carden attached to 1 3/4" DOM bolted to the frame rails and it got bent also. Torque baby!

Near bolt on super easy is the Duff's. Since the work for installing a 14 bolt was nixed, KISS and still done right.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Change again!

I originally ordered the 35 spline to go with a new larger housing. Total cost was about $3800. Then we realized that my brakes won’t fit onto the new housing, so I need to buy new brakes (disc or drum). Add this with the axle wrap and I’m now at $4500.

I said no way am I spending that much on the rear end. So we went back to the 35 spline solution that will fit in my small bearing housing. Added the axle wrap and checked out at $2700.

We also went with 410 gears in the 3rd member. Their builder suggested that it was a better match with the 6L80 gear ratios.

 

[1969]

Could have found a 4.10 geared 14 bolt or sterling 10.5 and been even further ahead in both strength and your pocket book…

 

[rocknhorse76]

I've installed many aftermarket antiwrap setups. RuffStuff, WFO, etc. I made a 3 pt mount setup on top of the 9" housing to keep the thin stock housing material from just peeling off- distributed the load by 1/3. Lasted for at least 15 (edit: years) till I bent the 3/8" (edit: wall) DOM. Had a shackle directly over the dbl carden attached to 1 3/4" DOM bolted to the frame rails and it got bent also. Torque baby!

Near bolt on super easy is the Duff's. Since the work for installing a 14 bolt was nixed, KISS and still done right.

Could have found a 4.10 geared 14 bolt or sterling 10.5 and been even further ahead in both strength and your pocket book…

Hell if you find a 14b out of a military CUCV they have 4.10’s and a factory Detroit Locker. Add some dually hubs and it’s at 63” WMS.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Change again!

I originally ordered the 35 spline to go with a new larger housing. Total cost was about $3800. Then we realized that my brakes won’t fit onto the new housing, so I need to buy new brakes (disc or drum). Add this with the axle wrap and I’m now at $4500.

I said no way am I spending that much on the rear end. So we went back to the 35 spline solution that will fit in my small bearing housing. Added the axle wrap and checked out at $2700.

We also went with 410 gears in the 3rd member. Their builder suggested that it was a better match with the 6L80 gear ratios.

I have about the same amount of money in my trussed and shaved 14 bolt with an ARB locker. And it’s twice as strong!

 

[1969]

You can find 2011+ sterling 10.5 with 4.10 gears, disk brakes, and the ford factory e locker for under $1000 at wrecking yards.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Someone had vintage photos of them launching a Bronco hard enough to lift the front tires. That is about as hard as you can be on the street. Pretty sure it was a stock 9", maybe 31 spline upgrade.

 

[Yeller]

but it comes down to how many times can you do that? lots of 12-13 second drag cars with broken rear axles and bent housings.

 

[nvrstuk]

I was going to add but what Steve said.

You can bet any drag guy that has more than a few runs has upgraded every dang part in their 9", every part.

 

[rocknhorse76]

but it comes down to how many times can you do that? lots of 12-13 second drag cars with broken rear axles and bent housings.

Yep! A built 9” is tough, but it’ll never be a 14 bolt or Sterling!