Where to buy Cobalt drill bits?

[hammer189]

Bought the WH 2 1/2" lift with the heavy duty u bolt kit. I'm going to move my axle back 1" so I need to drill the spring perch with a 9/16" bit and the block that mounts on top of the spring with a 3/4" hole.
Where is a good place to buy Cobalt drill bits? Any hardware stores carry this stuff? E-bay, Amazon or some other online vender?
Since this is probably a one time deal should I try and find a machine shop that could do it instead?
Thanks, David

 

[madness]

I would see if anyone locally has a drill press you could borrow if you don't already have one. Any good quality drill bit will work, I typically buy dewalt which most hardware stores should have. When you are drilling make sure you use lots of lube so the bit doesn't get hot, other than that it should be pretty straightforward.

 

[rjrobin2002]

http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/rs09-p.htm

 

[Letsgocrawling]

I've found when drilling my frame to any thing over a 3/16 diameter hole, I just use multiple sizes to get to my final hole size---it's real easy if drill bits are of any decent quality. Even with a new cobalt bit, drilling would be tough without using at least one pilot hole. Make sure you use cutting oil or some sort of lubricant like the other guys said. Piece of cake

 

[half cab]

My local True Value hardware store carries them.

 

[hammer189]

Bit the bullet and jumped in with both feet. Bought a bit at tractor supply. Drilled 3 other holes till I got to the big bit. Lotta lube and a lotta sweat. Holes drilled. Suspension going on tomorrow. Thanks guys.

 

[bax]

hole saw would work too.

 

[Broncitis]

No need for cobalt in this application. A good HSS bit will work fine. Step driills (Unibits) also work great.

Like Roger said, small hole saws also work well for what would otherwise be a larger drill size.

Here is a kit I ordered today along with some 1/4" cutters and extra 5/8" cutters for a job I have next week where I have to drill 800 5/8" holes into rectangular tubing. These should cut quicker and last longer (I hope).

http://shop.blairequipment.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=11090&gclid=CKqrydefxboCFcid4AodV04AvQ


I have not used this exact type yet, but they are very much like the annular cutters I use in my magnetic drill (the larger ones for that get stoopid expensive, like $200+ each!). They cut awesome! They are like a combination between a hole saw and an end mill.

The tubing I have to cut is not a good job for the mag drill, so I will set it up withe the above cutters in the milling machine. The arbor has a spring loaded pilot that located it on your center punch mark and then ejected the slug when cut through.

 

[AZ73]

Bought this. Have drilled dozens of 3/8 and about 10 1/2 inch holes through 3/8 inch steel. No need to step drill using smaller bits first. The 3/8 and 1/2 go through like butter. just use a slow speed.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CO18-18-Piece-Assortment-Plastic/dp/B0000TZX3A

I'm sure you can find an independent 3/4 inch Bosch bit also

 

[Steve83]

An actual Irwin Unibit stepped bit is an automatic pilot & big bit all in 1, and they can be had in cobalt if you choo$e. Much easier to use & safer than a hole saw or a monster HSS bit. Check Amazon, but my local Lowe's & HD are a few bucks cheaper on the few that they carry.

Just remember that the step depth must be greater than the material you're using it on, OR you have to go to the bit's max diameter to get a clean hole all the way through.

 

[ransil]

carbide tip hole cutters

http://ww.roarksupply.com/Carbide-Tip-Hole-Cutter-s/356.htm

 

[hammer189]

I thought about a stepped bit but then realized the plate I'm cutting is 1/2" thick and a stepped bit probably wouldn't be able to make a uniform hole through that much material.
I"m gonna put those Rotabroach cutters on my X-mas list.
Thanks guys. David

 

[Dbarnes72]

Bought the WH 2 1/2" lift with the heavy duty u bolt kit. I'm going to move my axle back 1" so I need to drill the spring perch with a 9/16" bit and the block that mounts on top of the spring with a 3/4" hole.

So to take it a little different direction, any pictures of your project?? I've been interested in how this goes....

 

[ransil]

Bought the WH 2 1/2" lift with the heavy duty u bolt kit. I'm going to move my axle back 1" so I need to drill the spring perch with a 9/16" bit and the block that mounts on top of the spring with a 3/4" hole.
Where is a good place to buy Cobalt drill bits? Any hardware stores carry this stuff? E-bay, Amazon or some other online vender?
Since this is probably a one time deal should I try and find a machine shop that could do it instead?
Thanks, David

Ruff stuff and a few others sell the top plate drilled & slotted to move the axle back

 

[Dbarnes72]

Ruff stuff and a few others sell the top plate drilled & slotted to move the axle back

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3F-UPLT.html

Looks cheap and easy

 

[hammer189]

I'll post pictures soon. Installed leaf springs, axle and shocks today and reinstalled the drum brake parts.

 

[hammer189]

Here are some pics. I KBS'ed the frame ,drilled the spring perch and top plate to move the axle back 1" and installed the WH 2 1/2" lift with a 1" body lift. Don't know if the drive shaft will fit and haven't measured the pinion angle yet but it looks ok.

 

[Steve83]

...haven't measured the pinion angle yet but it looks ok.

It's not something you can judge by eye. You need a gauge, and it's only relevant to measure it with the truck's fully-assembled weight on the suspension in the normal driving position. This caption is Ford's recommendation for setting up any driveshaft:

 

[DirtDonk]

Looking good so far.
I can't see the shackles that well in the pics (black disappearing into black!) but are they stock shackles with the open end facing forward? If so, then while you're in the mood to work on things check to see if it's binding.
Even though there is a disagreement about this in another thread from not long ago, as far as I'm concerned the stock original position for the stock shackle was with the open face to the rear.

From what I've seen, it does not cause a problem for every Bronco to have them backwards. But on some (like it appears it might on yours) the shackle with hit the hanger long before reaching it's full extension.
You can leave it the way it is, or if you don't mind the extra labor, you could do an experiment and revers them to see if doing so will let the suspension droop even farther than it is now.

Of course, if yours are stopped, you could easily see it as well. So maybe you don't have to pull anything apart after all. If your suspension is just hanging there (like it looks to be) you could just verify it visually.

Paul