Which Fuel Rail for EFI Swap?

[Killer Frogs]

Putting in a 5.0 from a '99 Explorer. I am using the high and low fuel pump with the accumulator. The fuel rail from the Explorer does not have the fuel return. I got a fuel rail from a buddy from a Crown Vic (in the pic) which has the return fuel. The problem is where the fuel pressure regulator is too high and interferes with the upper intake. What fuel rail does anyone suggest?

Thanks!

 

[EricLar80]

One that has the inlet and outlet at the back of the motor. It looks a lot cleaner. I think the earlier explorers have it that way. Note that you may have to bend either the inlet our outlet to avoid the firewall.

Eric

 

[Viperwolf1]

A rail from a HO motor will have the regulator on the passenger side (mustangs, some lincolns, etc). Car HO had fuel connections in the front. Explorer is at the rear. And no, you can't just turn the rail around.

 

[sanndmann3]

I think 99 Explorers were the 1st for returnless fuel systems. So 96 thru 98 5.0 Explorers have the fuel rail you are looking for...

 

[hankjr]

One that has the inlet and outlet at the back of the motor. It looks a lot cleaner. I think the earlier explorers have it that way. Note that you may have to bend either the inlet our outlet to avoid the firewall.

Eric

Any special prep or technique to bend fuel rail connection to avoid kinking? I was thinking a smooth piece of proper OD brass rod inserted into the fitting and slight pressure.

Thx

Hank

 

[EricLar80]

I heated it up with a torch and just bent it to where I wanted it. Anything you can do to prevent kinking would be good.

I think I read that the explorer system can sometime interfere with the distributor. It wasn't a problem on mine but I have a 351 and it pulls it further to the side.

Do a little research on the 96-98 explorer fuel rail and you will see yhe difference. I know there are a number of people that use it here, so it's doable.

Eric

 

[hankjr]

I heated it up with a torch and just bent it to where I wanted it. Anything you can do to prevent kinking would be good.

Eric

Any idea how much heat? Does the heat permanently discolor the chrome playing? I have the 351W as well and the DS rail fitting is very close to the firewall. It needs to come forward about an inch to allow clearance for the AN fitting.

Hank

 

[EricLar80]

Any idea how much heat? Does the heat permanently discolor the chrome playing? I have the 351W as well and the DS rail fitting is very close to the firewall. It needs to come forward about an inch to allow clearance for the AN fitting.

Hank

It would have been medium red before I started bending it. I heated it as quickly as possible with MAPP gas to prevent damaging the soldered joints. I think the chrome looked ok afterwards, but now that it is installed, I can't even see the bend anymore. It is hidden behind the intake and brake booster.

Eric

 

[Broncobowsher]

Just put a stand alone remote regulator before the fuel rail. I did that 10 years ago on a V8 Ranger swap. Didn't have any issues.

 

[EFI Guy]

I think 99 Explorers were the 1st for returnless fuel systems. So 96 thru 98 5.0 Explorers have the fuel rail you are looking for...

This. But I'd just use the 99-01 rail.

Just put a stand alone remote regulator before the fuel rail. I did that 10 years ago on a V8 Ranger swap. Didn't have any issues.

...and this.


Since you are running the 99-01 system you need to run it at 65psi. A return type of fuel rail is going to have a pressure regulator on it that is set to run at 39 PSI.

You could swap that type of regulator out for an adjustable unit, many have with success. But personally I'd just mount something like this on the frame before the fuel rail and run the return line from it back to the tank (do not apply vacuum to the port).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129/overview/



.

 

[nvrstuk]

I used the '96-98 Exploder rails from a 5.0 on my 418. Feed and return lines are in the rear AND they do not have a line crossing from one side to the other in the front so no interference from the distributor...HOLD IT, I don't have a distributor anymore (thanks to help from EFI Guy) but it's a cleaner look without the hose... regulator is on the drivers side but I have the TB on the drivers side... I used a slight amount of heat to bend the feed line to clear my Victor intake... just go slow and don't kink it!

 

[Broncobowsher]

I guess we should also ask which EFI system are you going to be running? Are you keeping the Explorer, using a mustang based EFI, or something else.

 

[EricLar80]

I used the '96-98 Exploder rails from a 5.0 on my 418. Feed and return lines are in the rear AND they do not have a line crossing from one side to the other in the front so no interference from the distributor...HOLD IT, I don't have a distributor anymore (thanks to help from EFI Guy) but it's a cleaner look without the hose... regulator is on the drivers side but I have the TB on the drivers side... I used a slight amount of heat to bend the feed line to clear my Victor intake... just go slow and don't kink it!

The sides extend forward a little so they can hit the distributor. Note how the fuel rail isn't even plugged into the injectors.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The sides extend forward a little so they can hit the distributor. Note how the fuel rail isn't even plugged into the injectors.

That's only an issue on the remote TFI distributors. The integral TFI distributor is taller and will clear. If you look at the wiring between the two you will see the wires you need to feed the remote TFI are a pass through on the integral module. A little splicing and you have two different TFIs under the hood. The integral "dummy" and the functional remote.

You can also notch the taller integral distributor for the remote harness, rebuild the distributor out of two (tall and short), make a hybrid that you can't find anyplace in a pinch, and still have a hole in the side of the distributor that needs to be filled where the TFI was. Easiest by just bolting a TFI in place and having nothing connected to it. Not recommended as you have a speciality part that is a bastard that doesn't need to be.