Which pair of axles should I build?

[Prizefighter]

37" tire is what I plan to run with a 3.5" SL and 2" BL and full widths with Duff long arms. A mildly built 351W/C4/D20 for now, probably upgrade to a C6/205 later if needed. This will be mostly trail truck that has street capabilities. The full width coil buckets and F250 shock towers are already welded in the factory location and I don't want to stretch it or build a hard core crawler. I have some axles laying around I could use so I'm asking for advice on this one.

A. Full width D44/9
B. Full width D44/Sterling 10.25
C. Super Duty 05+ D60/Sterling 10.5

If I did option B I would have the shafts machined to 5x5.5 or get adaptors to match the front 5 lug D44.

 

[JSmall]

I chose to go the full width D44/9 for my build. 35 spline, nodular iron case, ARB in the 9 with RCVs and ARB in the front. I will be running 38's that will measure closer to 37s when installed.

Most will tell you to go 1 ton from the start.

 

[Apogee]

For a driver, I'd go F150 D44/9...in fact, that's what I'm putting under mine right now. Very similar specs with a 351W/NV4500/3.8 Atlas and 37's, but mine will see probably 75% street and 25% trail. I'll run RCV's up front and the stock 31-spline axles in the rear.

As much as I love the 1-ton stuff, I wouldn't go there just to run 37's. Now if you think you might step up the tire size in the future or make it a hardcore crawler, then the argument against 1-tons certainly gets weaker. 37" tires are kind of in the no man's land between 35's and 40's.

 

[Prizefighter]

I'm leaning towards the D44 for the front for the simplicity and drivability. I have some new Yukon Chrome Moly shafts for it and a Grizzly locker that I was saving for another project but can use them. After running some numbers, the 10.25 will be a lot cheaper to build since it is already 35 spline so I won't have to buy shafts or a nodular case. All I would need to buy is a locker and gears with an install kit.

 

[Broncobowsher]

A or C depending on your driving pattern.

Don't see anything good about B. I would be more interested in the inverse of B, a 60 in front and a 9" in back

37s are an interesting size. About as large as you can run on half ton drivetrain. You can put good parts into them, but in the end you are pushing the limits of the housing itself. IF you drive gently, don't need much braking, the half ton drivetrain can live.

But 1-ton drivetrain parts will live, even with less put into them.

 

[sykanr0ng]

If you go with 1 tons, your ground clearance with 37 inch tires will be less than a D44/9 combo with 35 inch tires.

So then you will need 39 inch tires to break even.

 

[AxlesUp]

i have a sterling in the rear and on 37s that thing is a giant boat anchor. even on 40s its a bit much. it is cheap and indestructible which is why i have one.


I am thinking of removing it for one of these:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/NEW-D60-Crate-Axle-410Open-Standard/productinfo/20184442/

not bad for the money and they have 60 fronts for $1200-1400 right now.

my front 60 is shaved and it comes out even with a 44! if you have the guts for it is the way togo.

 

[cesco]

If you go with 1 tons, your ground clearance with 37 inch tires will be less than a D44/9 combo with 35 inch tires.

So then you will need 39 inch tires to break even.

I thought a D60 was only about 1" lower than the D44, there was a thread on pirate that had the measurements of the different axles.

If it was me, I would go with the D60 front and the 9 in the rear. They both can be upgraded to handle more power and larger tires if you ever do that.

 

[Yeller]

Option A if you can drive easy enough to keep them alive, I know it can be done, but you always feel like your driving on egg shells. Option B will be more expensive than you think, can't just turn down the 10-1/4 hub to 5x5.5 and has no real gain financially. Option B if you want to wheel and never worry about drive train components. The best of both worlds in 60 front and a full float 9" in the rear, but its more money yet and I get it. that's why I have a 60 in the front and a 14bolt in the rear, even less ground clearance than a 10-1/4, its about the dollars.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Yes you can do radical surgery on a D60 and make it have about the same ground clearance.

It will still weigh about 150 pounds more than a D44.

From my POV a D44 front with the big ring and pinion conversion and RCV shafts and a built 9 inch in the rear makes more sense if your tire size will never be more than 37 inch.

No need to switch to 8 lug wheels, no loss of ground clearance, no extra weight.

If you know that you will go bigger on tire size later, go bigger on axle size.

 

[welndmn]

To me it's about how much money you want to spend.
The 9" is great, but after you truss it, get a new center chunk and go to 35 spline axles, you have a good investment into it.

Another option is using a Dana 60 center and welding 9 inch ends on it, often called a 609.

Unless you're a hard core FORD only guy, I'd put a 14 bolt in it before a 10.25/10.5.

 

[Prizefighter]

It really is about the numbers with this. I did some quick math and I'm looking at $2k+ to build a 9 like a one ton. I already have the 10.25 so wanted to save a little money with it but sounds like more headache than it's worth.

I was thinking about weight balance also and how keeping a D44 in the front and having a heavy one ton in the rear would help with the nose dive tendencies.

 

[sykanr0ng]

More to think on:

You can shave a 9 inch and get another inch or more increased clearance.

Here is a page with some comparison info:

http://performanceunlimited.com/illustrations/gears.html

 

[Georgelas]

Jsmall: Do your rcv boots rub against the knuckle bolt. I just finished a build and have RCVs, the bolt that holds the reid knuckle onto the C is just barely touching the orange boot that goes around the rcv.