Who Has th ZF in their ride?? Do I want to put 1 in mine??

[Slick]

??? : ??? : ??? : ??? : ??? : ??? : ??? : ??? :

I am not a fan of have'n a machine with no computer telling me when I need to shift, so I want a manual trans. Therefore I feel a swap may be in order...

I dig the np435... but if I'm make'n a swap why not go for a trans w/an overdrive as well as a granny...

BUT!!! just how big of an ASS PAIN will there be??

Also, I'm interested in go'n to the NP205 T-case too... mainly to simplify the swap and to BEEF up the weak link in the chain.

My Questions are: 1.)Would use'n a NP205 with the ZF be easier than a dand 20 ( inthat the kit would prolly be as much as the np205)? 2.) Just EXACTLY how big of a pain is the ZF to drop in to the bronco... With the np205? Aside from new U-joints etc... there is no "Kit" needed for anything els...is there? :-

My thanks in advance for your help!!

-slick- 8)

 

[Amac70]

The zf goes in quite easily. As for adapting it to a 205 i don't know of any adapters out there for that. The only other thing you have to do to the zf swap after putting the adapter on is get the driveshafts lengthend and shortend. Chuck sells eveyother part to do the conversion without haveing to do any fabing yourself. You might have to fab your own t case linkage. The thing is easier to put in then stock 3spd and t case put together. you can put the zf in piece at a time, tranny then t case. If you have anyfab skills at all you can make everything but the adapter yourself. Its definatly worth the effort.

 

[Slick]

???

What T-case did they mate with em from ford??? and, would they be ANY better than the dana20???

-slick- 8)

 

[edge4]

Slick,
I pulled this quote out of Joe Lougee's ZF Page.
It talks about the original BW1356 and trying the NP205.
The D20 works great and the driveshafts can be interchanged. (1/2" difference)

Joe Lougee wrote:
Once the transmission was securely mounted, I had to figure out what to use for a transfer case. I got the BW1356 that was originally mated to the tranny, but didn't like the slip yoke output, or the length. I got a NP205 from the junkyard and had it on for a while. The NP205 is so heavy, I was afraid that it could break the end of the aluminum transmission off if I didn't brace it well. I decided against the NP205 and began searching for another choice. I looked at the NP208, but it wouldn't fit between the frame rails, and I'm not real fond of chain drive cases if I can avoid them. I began searching for excuses to buy that Atlas II now, but we're moving soon and need the money for the down payment. I opted for the stock D20, but no one made an adapter to mate it to the ZF transmission.

 

[Hobe]

The ZF swap isn't to bad and is now much easier with a package deal from Chuck.

As far as the 205 TC, I think that it may bolt up without an adapter. All you would need to do is fab a cross member. I would verify this first, but I think it is correct. The biggest knock on the 205 is the low range being pretty high geared, but it is pretty bullet proof.

 

[Slick]

??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

So... is there any way to do the swap w/out drop'n the $1,000.00 chuck is ask'n for the kit??

More over, why wouldn't I want to use the BW1536?? It is tougher than the D20 and no adapter is needed to mate it to the transmition... sence it comes with it.

I assume the big apeal to the Dana20 is that you can still use the stock drive shafts... but wouldn't the shafts run about the same as the new spud shaft and adapter for the dana?????

-slick- 8)

 

[rbuday]

Do yourself a favor, and put the ZF in. My eb has always been fun to drive but now that I have the ZF in it makes it way better. While your at it you may as well put the Atlas II in it just bolts to the back of the ZF. The swap isn't bad at all.

 

[Hobe]

[quote author=Slick link=board=5;threadid=15509;start=0#msg118805 date=1048733800]
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

So... is there any way to do the swap w/out drop'n the $1,000.00 chuck is ask'n for the kit??

More over, why wouldn't I want to use the BW1536?? It is tougher than the D20 and no adapter is needed to mate it to the transmition... sence it comes with it.

I assume the big apeal to the Dana20 is that you can still use the stock drive shafts... but wouldn't the shafts run about the same as the new spud shaft and adapter for the dana?????

-slick- 8)
[/quote]

I believe that the the BW 1536 is to big to fit without additional mods to the frame or floor, but I might be mistaken. Isn't it also a chain unit, if so that would be another undesirable feature.

As for the cost of the ZF swap....well that always depends on what you pay for the tranny. There have been a few who have gotten great deals on their trannys, that would lower your cost.

 

[chuck]

[quote author=Slick link=board=5;threadid=15509;start=0#msg118805 date=1048733800]
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

So... is there any way to do the swap w/out drop'n the $1,000.00 chuck is ask'n for the kit??

More over, why wouldn't I want to use the BW1536?? It is tougher than the D20 and no adapter is needed to mate it to the transmition... sence it comes with it.

I assume the big apeal to the Dana20 is that you can still use the stock drive shafts... but wouldn't the shafts run about the same as the new spud shaft and adapter for the dana?????

-slick- 8)
[/quote]

The kit that I sale is much less that $1000. No matter what T-case you use you will have to change both driveshafts, using the D-20 or the atlas both shafts will be about the same length. With the new D-20 output shafts(including mine) the D-20s are very strong and are small and light. You will also have to cut a hole in the floor for the shafter and redo your exhaust. As far as cutting corners, you can go to my page and have a look at what we made and copy them, I don't mind as long as you do not sell them.

 

[Slick]

;D

I'm not sure what all was included, I asked what the "Whole" kit ran, I'd assume then that that would have included new headers, or what is needed? ...and for that matter NO smack was meant nor immplied :-*

I am pumped to get a ZF in my rig, but just need to find what amount of my $$ I need to set aside

thx

-slick-

 

[Slick]

:-X

 

[Amac70]

start to finish i have about 1600 into mine including tranny, adapter, drivelines redone, new exhaust, I built my own crossmember, made my own clutch linkage to master cylinder and fabbed up my own twin sticks.
tranny 800 - came with shifter and slavecylinder
adapter 550
drivelines frt. 68
driveline rear 48
exhaust $80 (but i know the guy that owns the shop)
master cylinder w/ hose $25 (at junkyard)
new tunnel cover $65 (haven't got it yet but priced to see how much to have one bent up out of stainless and laser out all the holes and angles.
hope this help you get an idea of cost
and here is a pic of how i did the cross ill get a better installed one later tonight. kind of copied something i saw on chucks site.

new cross temp install rear pic when i do my final install it will all be about an 1 1/2 higher just had to get it on there so i could move it

front pic

 

[Slick]

??? ??? ???

I JUST put in a Mechanical Auto Meter Speedometer... If I make the swap... will I have to pitch it for an electronic one? ??? ??? ???

-slick- 8)

 

[Amac70]

The drive gear for the speedo is on the transfer case its not effected by putting in a new tranny.

 

[Slick]

:-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

Crap... the needle is pretty bouncy :- so that means I'm miss'n a tooth on my T-case gear??

??? Is that an easy fix at all??? I suppose it's not the end of the world, but it just bugs me... sence I just dropped $150.00 on the speedo is all :-

-slick- 8)

 

[KST1]

Lube your speedo cable. That may solve the bounce.

-D