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WildHorses Clydesdale

shaunmcc

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
60
Odd question for you all, specifically those who have the Clydesdale linkage from WildHorses. I recently purchased this setup to replace a new linkage setup I had bought a few months prior. Been working on a frame up, and didn't like the slop in the steering I was experiencing with the other setup. I originally purchased the following, all of which fit fine:

4 pc Steering Linkage Kit - T-Style w/Adjustable Drag Link, 66-75 Ford
Adjustable Tracking Bar w/Poly Bushings, 1966-75 Ford Bronco

So I ordered the Clydesdale using the same date range, for the setup (I swapped a Dana44 into it). The pictures show the issue I'm experiencing. I contacted WildHorses, and the person I spoke to thought it was strange I was having the issues I am experiencing, and asked that I take some measurements and reconact them. I plan to do that, though I work nights and have been working way to much overtime; and simply haven't had the time to do that yet.

Was more or less curious if any of you have experienced something similar? Specifically the issue I'm having is the tapered holes in both the pitman arm and the knuckles are too big for the studs. As a result, the castle nuts are bottoming out, before pulling the stud all the way into the taper. I don't like the idea of having to use washers as a shim.

Thanks for any input.
 

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needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
I'm assuming you or the previous owner reamed everything out for another 1 ton style steering setup. I'd see if there are tapered bushings (assuming those are tapered studs) that you can install to allow the new steering parts to sit at the proper depth. I know BCB sells them, I assume WH does or can get them as well. Your dealing with a 40-50 year old vehicle that who knows how many people have worked on, anything is possible.
 
OP
OP
S

shaunmcc

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
60
Na they were not reamed. The other linkage I purchased fit like a glove.
 

wepuckett

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
721
I notice in your post you ordered for 66-75 linkage but you have disc brakes did you do a conversion, was it ford or chevy conversion or is the axle a 76-77. If it is a 76-77 that could be your problem.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,631
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
I think the 76-77 were the smaller hole. Could be 78-79 knuckles. Also 66,77 and maybe 76 have a smaller hole in the pitman arm.
 

WILDHORSES

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
2,196
Loc.
USA
Odd question for you all, specifically those who have the Clydesdale linkage from WildHorses. I recently purchased this setup to replace a new linkage setup I had bought a few months prior. Been working on a frame up, and didn't like the slop in the steering I was experiencing with the other setup. I originally purchased the following, all of which fit fine:

4 pc Steering Linkage Kit - T-Style w/Adjustable Drag Link, 66-75 Ford
Adjustable Tracking Bar w/Poly Bushings, 1966-75 Ford Bronco

So I ordered the Clydesdale using the same date range, for the setup (I swapped a Dana44 into it). The pictures show the issue I'm experiencing. I contacted WildHorses, and the person I spoke to thought it was strange I was having the issues I am experiencing, and asked that I take some measurements and reconact them. I plan to do that, though I work nights and have been working way to much overtime; and simply haven't had the time to do that yet.

Was more or less curious if any of you have experienced something similar? Specifically the issue I'm having is the tapered holes in both the pitman arm and the knuckles are too big for the studs. As a result, the castle nuts are bottoming out, before pulling the stud all the way into the taper. I don't like the idea of having to use washers as a shim.

Thanks for any input.

Using a washer for a shim on the Clyde with 66-75 knuckles is unusual but not unheard of. I just went to the shelf and rechecked parts before posting. All the samples I have here fit without needing a washer. It's more common on the pitman arm. Some of the kits will come with the washer/shims when we know they are needed.

I'm not sure what measurements you were asked for but if I were asking I would want to know ID at top of hole in the knuckle and ID at the bottom of the hole. This would have to be done with calipers, tape measure is not going to get what we would need. We can use that for comparison.

Jim
 
OP
OP
S

shaunmcc

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
60
Jim, thanks. I was asked to get that, as well as on the pitman arm and the studs.
 
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