Winch wireless remote

[BoulderMike22]

I recently installed my Warn 8274 and decided to use a newer solenoid pack and a wireless remote to lose some of the bulk off the top of the winch. The remote works perfectly with no load on the winch (both in and out). However, when you put even a little bit of load on it (someone pulling on the rope), the control is choppy at best. Has anyone experienced this?

I have attached pictures of the remote and the solenoid...

Also- I was thinking of also wiring a wired remote as backup but the only ones I find are replacement remotes that do not have the female end of the plug that connects to the solenoid. Ideally, I'd love to have one that he just a short female plug coming from the solenoid and then the remote in a separate long line so I can easily attach/detach the remote as needed. Any suggestions?

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[AxlesUp]

the only difference i have noticed with my wireless controller vs the wired one is the wireless one tends to continue to pull for about a second after i let off the switch where the wired one stops immediately.

my winch came with this setup. the wireless one has a box that plugs into the side of the winch where the wired remote normally plugs in. the box has a magnet in it so you just stick it to the truck while in use.


i would hook a pair toggle switches up just to test the new solenoid without the wireless remote.

 

[BoulderMike22]

So I have the original wired remote for the winch and ordered the female plug that I'll also wire to my solenoid. I figure once I do that, I can test it to see if the problem is with the solenoid or the wireless remote.

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[Skiddy]

I have the same remote and don't have any issues with it. it does take a second longer to start/stop like AxlesUp said

 

[BoulderMike22]

I have the same remote and don't have any issues with it. it does take a second longer to start/stop like AxlesUp said

Yah- it works flawlessly if I don't have any load on it, but the second there is resistance, it doesn't really work. I guess we will see if it's a problem with the solenoid once I hard wire a remote in. I suppose there could be a problem with the winch itself not working properly but don't know enough about these things to know one way or another...


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[Rustytruck]

Check the brushes in the motor for proper tension and any excessive wear. Problems with motor brushes show up under load.

 

[DirtDonk]

Definitely that. Is yours an older model? New? Used?

Does the controller/solenoid pack have any kind of a maximum current rating? Your 8274 probably draws double the current that most standard winches do, even with no load on it.
With a full load to it's rated 8000lbs (or whatever it is these days) that winch will draw over 600 amps of current if I remember.
Even with no load, I believe that it's in the 190-240 amp range? Sorry I didn't check my numbers and could be way off of course, but it's a heavy-duty winch in every aspect, so might be acting funny just by drawing more current through your control unit than it's capable of handling cleanly.
Maybe your solenoid pack is running up against the limit for some sort of internal circuit-breaker or other protection?

And did you verify that controller socket is the same one for your particular model? Warn has used at least three different versions of the remote control plug over the years, and sometimes two at the same time on different winch models.
Sorry if you already knew that stuff and verified, but I didn't notice any specific product info on the pages you posted.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[BoulderBronco22]

I am not sure how to check proper tension on the brushes... is there a standard way to determine if they are properly tensioned?

The winch is used. The solenoid pack has been reviewed and used by people as a replacement for the 8274 (which is why I went with it). My research shows that it will handle a constant 450 amps.

Here is what Warn has listed on their website:
12V DC PERFORMANCE SPECS
0 79.3 (22.17) 49 amps
2000 (910) 23.7 (7.22) 182 amps
4000 (1810) 16.4 (5.0) 286 amps
6000 (2720) 12.0 (3.66) 385 amps
8000 (3630) 8.7 (2.65) 480 amps

As for the socket, I did verify it is the 3 prong socket which the earlier WARN used and I did verify that against the controller I have so hopefully I can get that wired up next week and check functionality. If that doesn't work with load, I will pull the motor and check the brushes or take it somewhere to have serviced.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok, that's good. But I'm still going to check some of my older literature. I think the older ones used more amperage per pound than your chart shows. Either they've updated the motors then, or (as I suspect) my memory is almost full and malfunctioning!

Paul

 

[Steve83]

It's not "tension" on the brushes you're checking - it's length & contact area on the commutator (the copper fins on the spinning armature). If the brushes are worn down too far, they'll twist inside their guides and bind up. If they're not making good contact on the commutator, there will be "dead" spots in the motor. The commutator fins should be smooth, flat, and uniformly-shiny. They should not have deep grooves, pockets, holes, burns, or a thick layer of Carbon dust; and they should not have Copper dust or slag bridging from one fin to another.

I have that same remote system on my Ramsey 12K, but it uses much-heavier separate relays instead of that light-duty dual relay. That one is just this one (which is rated for 400A) and this one (250A) in a different case. In my experience, they're not actually reliable for 90A intermittent draw; much less, 250-450 continuous.

You don't have to use the Warn connector to add a hardwired dash switch; you can use any automotive outdoor 2- or 3-wire connector (depending on how you want the dash switch to work). Mine uses the same rubber connector that your Bronco's side markers use. This diagram shows how it's wired to a circuit (W/P) which is only powered with the key in ACC or RUN, so passengers can't play with the winch when I take the key out:



This shows the dash switch I chose: