Windshield Brace question

[69bronco69]

For those who use windshield braces to anchor the windshield to the roll bar, did you use the ones from Tom's? Tom's are 5/16" size bolt. Cost $20 for a pair. Not sure of how much the load rating is on them.
I have seen similar looking "turnbuckles" at Lowes and Home Depot. Would those suffice for that job? Anyone used these or made their own?

 

[broncman66]

I used the turnbuckles from Sears Hardware (sure it's the same Lowe's and Home Depot carry), and chain link fence straps around the cage. Holds the windshield very steady and is easy to adjust, it was cheap to make and I was able to pick it all up locally without waiting or paying for shipping.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2

 

[AZ73]

Purchased an unused WH set from a Bronco owner on Ebay cheap. Only difference is they have heim joints on the ends. Like the rear-view mirror set-up above too.

 

[joshnjulie1]

Don't be fooled by the ones from WH's/TBP. I bought a set and still they sit. I was not thrilled with them. I wound up putting in a weld nut inside the roll bar and making my own out of solid threaded 'feet' from a hardware store. The soft top holds it back and the 'feet' hold it from bouncing. I guess if my top gives then my windshield flies forward when I hit the brakes......ha...oh well.

 

[joshnjulie1]

here is what it looks like. I could not find a better picture. The beauty is, if these don't work as intended, I can remove them and no one will be the wiser, especially me.

 

[joshnjulie1]

oh and yeah, that is my little self proclaimed rocket in the background, a 2002 Frod Focus SVT. Man that little thing is fast. Talk about fun with a 6 speed manual trans.

 

[Broncofan76]

Home depot has about the same turnbuckles. I used home depot ones and they worked great.

 

[Antipiste]

Windshield Braces

Hello. I'm new to the forum, so not sure if I'm doing this right, or if any one is still viewing this thread.

I'm getting ready to install braces on my '70. I got the 5/16 turnbuckles from Lowes. I want to use U-bolts to attach them to my cage. To attach them to the windshield, I'm considering bolting them to my Bestop windshield adaptor, rather than the top of the windshield frame. I just don't like the idea of drilling holes into my 43-year old EB if I don't have to. Since I can drill holes into the adaptors and use bolts (rather than sheet metal screws), it seems like it would be stronger. Also, it looks like a pretty straight line from the cage hoop to the adaptor. Has anyone tried this, or willing to give an opinion it?

Thanks.

 

[bobtail]

I drilled and tapped the cage and welded a thin nut to the tapped hole (5/16 fine thread) Used a piece of flat bar (1/8x1x4) attached to wind shield frame. back up nut or adjustment not needed. total cost about $3.00 and less than 1 hour labor. so far no problems. and its barely visible.

 

[u10072]

With the cage fully in and the windshield angle shimmed at the proper angle- personally I see absolutely no reason to make the tie in pieces anymore than flat stock and ran like the previous post.

 

[DirtDonk]

...I want to use U-bolts to attach them to my cage. To attach them to the windshield, I'm considering bolting them to my Bestop windshield adaptor, rather than the top of the windshield frame. I just don't like the idea of drilling holes into my 43-year old EB if I don't have to. Since I can drill holes into the adaptors and use bolts (rather than sheet metal screws), it seems like it would be stronger. Also, it looks like a pretty straight line from the cage hoop to the adaptor. Has anyone tried this, or willing to give an opinion it?

Hey Antipiste, welcome to CB! Interesting question.
I'm not sure if anyone has done it, but if so hopefully they will chime in to help.
But why are you thinking you'd need to be drilling holes in the frame? Can't you set it up so that your brace would use existing holes? There should be quite a few to choose from.
That's what your soft top/bikini riser bracket is bolted to anyway, right?

I'm not sure I'd want to bolt to the riser. Seems like it would be weaker than direct to the frame to me. But I don't have any data to back that up, so could be way off base.
But wouldn't having bolt heads through any part of it's vertical surface get in the way of mounting your soft top or bikini?

Just wondering. Haven't tried it myself. Good luck though, either way.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't be fooled by the ones from WH's/TBP. I bought a set and still they sit...

What is there to be fooled by exactly? Just curious.
Bottom line though is that if you're that unhappy with them, call us up (if they're ours naturally :-[) and we'll take them back.

Are they otherwise in a relatively non-returnable state? If so, maybe we can do something else to lessen the pain just a bit.
Did you contact us (or Tom's) about the issue already?

Let me know if it's one of our kits and if you haven't already, we can discuss the options.

Paul

 

[matt w]

Don't be fooled by the ones from WH's/TBP. I bought a set and still they sit. I was not thrilled with them. I wound up putting in a weld nut inside the roll bar and making my own out of solid threaded 'feet' from a hardware store. The soft top holds it back and the 'feet' hold it from bouncing. I guess if my top gives then my windshield flies forward when I hit the brakes......ha...oh well.

GREAT IDEA!

I had struggled for years with the whole turnbuckle thing. I kept breaking them because the cage would go one way, the body and windshield another.

The last two years I have been just letting my mesh top hold the windshield in place with really no issues I can see.

I like the idea of the soft feet and threaded rod... I might have to check the concept/idea out!

 

[BRONCOBERT]

This is how I mounted mine and its as solid as a rock.

 

[Antipiste]

DirtDonk and BRONCOBERT, thanks for the reply. I'm looking at various options, and think I will try drilling holes in my riser. My main reason is that I want to use wire ring anchor points instead of running a riser bolt through the turnbuckle. The top stretches over the riser at an angle, creating a space that should be large enough for the bolts. Also, I have a spare riser in case I mess it up. Based on mat W's post, I'm a bit concerned about the body and cage moving independently and braking the turnbuckles. The problem is that my cage isn't as close to the windshield frame as BRONCOBERT's picture illustrates.

Maybe I'll take some pictures and upload them to see what people think.

 

[joshnjulie1]

[QUOTE

Are they otherwise in a relatively non-returnable state? If so, maybe we can do something else to lessen the pain just a bit.

Let me know if it's one of our kits and if you haven't already, we can discuss the options.

Paul[/QUOTE]

No pain. Actually forgot all about them. (The dangers of subscribing to threads. LOL)

Just for fun I'll look to see if they are floating around. I tend to put things like that in a single bin. I call it my "didn't use for intended purpose but may use it for something else down the road" bin.

 

[chuck]

The windshield frame and roll cage needs to be able to move independently but at the same time hold the frame from moving. That is why most use heims. In time the stress from being mounted ridge will cause trouble like the windshield frame cracking or the stiffener coming loose often.

 

[Antipiste]

Braces Installed

Okay, I went out into the garage this morning, and before I knew it, I had a drill in my hand. I installed the braces as described in my above post, and it all went well. My windshield is now fully adjustable. I bolted the front anchors at the bottom of the WS adaptor, so I don't think I'm compromising too much strength. I'm a bit concerned about whether the turnbuckles will hold up to vibration, and whether my windshield frame will crack. I used the "U-bolt" method to attach the turnbuckles to the cage. Not very elegant, but it seems to work. I might have the guy who installed the cage weld in some nut plates at some point.

Any comments/opinions?

Thanks,
Shayne

Here's the link to the image:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vcw9z438znm50a2/IMG_0607.JPG

 

[methcat]

I drilled and tapped the cage and welded a thin nut to the tapped hole (5/16 fine thread) Used a piece of flat bar (1/8x1x4) attached to wind shield frame. back up nut or adjustment not needed. total cost about $3.00 and less than 1 hour labor. so far no problems. and its barely visible.

same here. and i suggest that this provides enough flexibility not to warrant heims. i used a 1/8x1x4 or 5" flat piece of aluminum. since my bar is taller, i put a slight Z shape in the strip. the simple fact of being a pin to pin gives the side to side compliance, and the not so stiff aluminum strip gives more than enough up and down. It's only stiff in the fwd/aft....

cost me nothing, just some spare bolts i had laying around and a tiny scrap of aluminum.

 

[xcntrk]

I was in Lowes the other day, and I saw a whole bucket of TBP turnbuckles.