Wiring - Firewall - Connectors

[kiteoregon]

I purchased the EZ Wiring harness for my bronco, it looks like it should it should be a fairly straight forward install. What do you all use for a firewall pass through, is there a good bulk head connector to use? How about various connectors / plugs, is there a weather tight connector kit that people use? Basically i am going to use the EZ kit and make several sub harnesses that plug in. For example, the dash will be all wired, then a couple weather tight plugs back to the main harness. The idea is so that later when i need / want to remove the dash, it's just a few screws and some plugs. Same for the interior and lights. Here is one that i have found that looks good, just wondering what people have experience with. These also look a little more factory.

 

[DirtDonk]

I use Weatherpacks a lot and love 'em.
There is even a version for bulkheads/firewalls.
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/accessories/bk1.shtml
It's relatively expensive of course, and is pretty bulky too. But it should have enough contacts for just about any harness connections.
I've actually got one, but have not found a use for it yet.

You can also buy harnesses for Jeeps and GM cars and trucks from most of the usual suppliers, that include the factory firewall connectors. Which means that, if you're very good at being a detective, you could probably buy one by itself to work with your harness.
The only way I know to buy them normally, is pre-wired as part of the harnesses.

Paul

 

[707Bronk]

I just did the EZ wire kit myself about a year ago. So far, so good. Although it sat for the summer while I was installing a ZF, but its back on the road and could not be happier about the EZ kit. The only thing I regret was not getting the smaller fuse box. The larger fuse box has the wires going out the back, and makes it difficult to mount it flush up against something like the kick panels. I cut out the speaker hole in the dash and mounted it there. I then made a removable cover, which I want to redo.

X2 on the Weatherpacks. You can also use Metri-packs. The Metri-pack connectors are a little smaller, but can not carry the same amperage as the Weatherpacks. Both use the same style crimper, which make beautiful crimps IMO. I used the Metripacks for some of the dash connectors (exception being the headlight and ignition switches). Everything outside the cab is Weatherpack connectors.
I got the weatherpack connectors through Caspers Electronics directly, but I saw that they also sell through jegs. You can always buy individual ones through Amazon (for 8 or 10 pin connectors). For the larger gauge wires you will have to buy some special pins so that you can crimp onto the larger wires.

Here is what I used for Firewall Boot: Daystar KU20040BK - Daystar Firewall Boot
(http://www.jegs.com/i/Daystar/319/KU20040BK/10002/-1)
It fit tightly right into the factory firewall hole.

I thought about using the Bulkhead connectors that DirDonk was talking about, but if I ever ran into a problem with them I would be crawling up under the dash to check the interior half.

I chose to run the wires through the Daystar boot make my connections in the engine compartment. Not as clean (or as cool), but easier to diagnose and make pin-out changes.

Hope this helps. Looks like you are on the right track though.

 

[kiteoregon]

I also got the larger fuse box and it looks like mounting could take a little creativity. I do like the idea of mounting to the dash, with some sort of cover. 707Bronk, can you post a couple pictures of your install?

 

[707Bronk]

When I get home today I will try and figure out how to post some pictures.

It took some time finding the best place to mount it, and right behind the speaker hole was the only place that had plenty of room behind it.

The thing to remember with this kit is before you start making connections and cutting wires, make sure you have laid every thing out. I kind of got ahead of myself and my dash wires ended up being either a little tight, or a little long. And before you start using zip ties and cleaning up all of the looms, make sure things are working first. Once you have verified everything is working (and that you do not have to re-route) then you can start cleaning things up.

And, if you remove the drivers side vent, you can get access to the back of the gauge. I didn't realize this until I put in the ZF, but wished I had it removed during the re-wire.

 

[kiteoregon]

Right now i have the dash removed, so the plan is to wire it up on the bench and test, then when i install the dash, it will just plug into the engine harness, interior harness and the lighting harness. What did you use for connectors to the back of the gauge cluster?

 

[707Bronk]

I re-used the same plug connectors. Both the wires and plugs were in decent shape. I cut them long and used metripack connectors (weatherpack would also work) to connect them to the harness. This way I can take the gauge cluster in and our without disconnecting anything from the back of the gauge cluster, just the two metripack connectors.