When it heats up and stalls t/s switch not working + hazards and Dakota freezes up.
Interesting. What do all of these have in common by chance?
High pressure fuel pump and only 10.6 volts to the distributor
Distributor is fed through one of the normal "IGN +" wires from the harness? Or something else? Is it the same reading at the battery?
Where else do you read that low voltage? Without having a resistor installed (which you would not with this setup I don't think) you should be seeing full battery voltage at almost all points.
Constants are verified as b+ when cold, have not verified after it stalls (was on the side of the road)
Yeah, I hear ya on the less-than-ideal testing circumstances. But better sooner rather than later to find out.
Check as many points as you can not only for the presence of power, but how much it has compared with what's at the battery.
The electric choke wire from the painless harness is hot in start and run
now that's interesting as well. The Bronco harness is supposed to mimic the factory setup in most spots. And they do that in about 90% of the circuits, other than adding fuse protection to them and by necessity re-routing some of them. But the stator wire should be running from the alternator directly up to the carburetor (when using a carburetor that is) without a fuse or any interruption.
I guess they felt in this case that nobody was going to be using a factory carburetor and did not need the old wiring scheme. So changed it to a more direct-from-battery setup.
Still, no need for it to be hot in START either, since it's not a mission critical component. And usually the factory did not want the choke powered up until the engine was running. Personally though, I always thought converting to keyed power was a good plan for chokes. That way if you were at high altitudes and an engine was prone to flooding while trying to start (an all too common problem way back when) you could just turn the key on for a minute and open the choke.
We used to use rubber bands to do the same thing with factory chokes. I guess that's not necessary anymore...
High pressure has a relay and supplied wire from kit. Low pressure is through an on off switch with 14 gauge wire. Low pressure is working in all situations
Good to know. When the low pressure pump is working, you have verified that the high-pressure pump is DOA at that point? Not working at all, or just not very well?
Haven’t ch3cked for spark when not running but assume it’s not sparking at 10.6 volts
You can get plenty of spark out of most normal ignitions with as little as 4v. Well, by "plenty" I mean you can get a spark. Should be more than 6v to get decent spark, but the original ignitions were running on 7v to 9v typically after warming up. But Broncos could still run on 5-6v and you didn't even know it was having trouble at that point.
So your 10.6v is not optimum for a system that does not utilize a resistor, but it's not right either when you are supposed to be at 12 to 15 volts!
The Pertronix distributor module wants the full voltage, but what coil are you using? Some will prefer and be perfectly fine with full voltage, while others will overheat if you don't have a resistor. If yours is meant to be in the 6-9 range, maybe that's part of your problem.
Even an overheating coil will not kill other components. It'll stop the engine from running, but it won't stop other accessories.
Anything else connected to the ignition components anywhere else?
Also, do you have a tachometer by any chance? If so, disconnect it while doing your testing to make sure it's not part of the problem.
Extra grounds have been added. No ground from throttle body to intake.
You should add one. It's not a 100% cure-all for problems, but enough of them have been reported, then fixed by members here, to warrant adding a small ground strap/wire between one of the attaching bolts and the engine. Maybe not even the intake manifold, but perhaps to a common grounding point anywhere.
And yes, it should be sufficiently grounded (bonded) to the rest of the system through the attaching points of the throttle-body to the intake, then the intake through the engine block, then to the battery through the main ground. But adding an additional one has been proven to help in some cases.
At least with RFI, but not with other circuits dropping out.
Computer is on the drives kick panel above the ebrake
What computer? What EFI system are you running?
Paul