Wiring issues..... SOLVED! Turn Signal Switch Harness connector pins

[WARDOG]

I had IronHide all packed up to go fishing for a few days. Got in, started up, then the factory gauges all went dead. Painless harness installed by P.O. All fuses good. I am now assuming the dash volt regulator is bad. While troubleshooting, the electric fuel pump stopped. No fuse, switch or relay for that...hmmmm. However since I bought it whenever I used the turn signals I could hear the fuel pump pulsing to the tune of the turn indicator light. That tells me it is likely wired on the wrong circuit. The right rear turn signal has never worked and I have been trying to track that down. I am pulling the steering wheel this afternoon to look at the switch. The front right signal works though....another hmmm....

The P.O. had a stock 3 wire alternator hooked up as a single wire. The two connection blades did not have any wires hooked up. However the single wire is tied into a stock type voltage regulator.
What am I missing? How can you have a 3 wire type alt, wired with a single wire to a voltage regulator, that doesn't have any input back to the alt?
Doesn't the external, firewall mounted volt regulator, sense the volts that the alt is producing, then control the output of the alt?
The 3 wire that was hooked up incorrectly burned up about 50 miles ago (of course in the middle of nowhere). I replaced it with a single wire stock 63 amp unit. However I wired it directly back into the external volt regulator until I could figure it out.
As soon as I track down the gauge problem, make a relayed circuit for the new fuel pump, I will be installing my new 90/130 amp alternator.
What's the purpose of the external volt regulator on a single wire, internally regulated, alternator?

 

[gr8scott]

What's the purpose of the external volt regulator on a single wire, internally regulated, alternator?

None. You can remove it or leave it in place. I left mine in place if for some reason the stock alt had to go back in.

 

[DirtDonk]

What he said. You don't use two regulators, so if there's one inside already, you don't even hook the old one into the system.
I don't know what it would do, but the results can't be good...

Got in, started up, then the factory gauges all went dead. Painless harness installed by P.O. All fuses good. I am now assuming the dash volt regulator is bad.

Reasonable assumption. But with all the other issues, it's going to be hard to tell.

While troubleshooting, the electric fuel pump stopped. No fuse, switch or relay for that...hmmmm.

No? Where is it getting it's power then? Hopefully NOT straight from the stock ignition switch. If so, maybe your switch is part of the problem now?
Not that it can't directly handle a pump, but put that same pump on too small of a wire, and factor in the age of the switch, and you could have a recipe.

However since I bought it whenever I used the turn signals I could hear the fuel pump pulsing to the tune of the turn indicator light. That tells me it is likely wired on the wrong circuit.

Or there is insufficient power getting to the pump in general. Or there are not enough grounds.

The right rear turn signal has never worked and I have been trying to track that down.

Probably a separate issue, but it would not hurt at all to track that (supposedly) simple issue just to get it out of the way.

I am pulling the steering wheel this afternoon to look at the switch. The front right signal works though....another hmmm....

Not sure what you can tell by looking at it, but it might be easier to probe some of the contacts there than it is to lie on your back or twist your neck up under the dash to check the wires there!

The P.O. had a stock 3 wire alternator hooked up as a single wire. The two connection blades did not have any wires hooked up. However the single wire is tied into a stock type voltage regulator.
What am I missing? How can you have a 3 wire type alt, wired with a single wire to a voltage regulator, that doesn't have any input back to the alt?

First off, did the alternator work? If so, are you sure it was a stock Ford alternator? Some of the old GM 1-wire alts did look kind of like the old Ford units if you weren't familiar with them
Your mention of "connection blades" could easily indicate a GM alt. Were the two contacts in-line with each other? Or were they offset with one going one way and the other going the other way (like a stylized "T")?
You can have a 3-wire alt working as a 1-wire if it's got the correct internal regulator. But otherwise, not so much.

Doesn't the external, firewall mounted volt regulator, sense the volts that the alt is producing, then control the output of the alt?

Pretty much. It really senses the voltage in the system, then tells the alternator how much to charge to keep the system at the desired value.
That's why it's generally considered more accurate to take that system voltage check nearer to the battery, instead of directly next to the alternator. However, taking it from the alt charge wire is so convenient that we often sacrifice a little precision for the convenience.

The 3 wire that was hooked up incorrectly burned up about 50 miles ago (of course in the middle of nowhere). I replaced it with a single wire stock 63 amp unit.

No such thing as a 1-wire stock 63 amp unit from an EB. Or from any other Ford that I'm aware of. What exactly did you buy? Do you mean an older 1G externally regulated model?
Or one from some other vehicle? Sounds again like a stock GM type, if it's truly a 1-wire.
Not many (if any) 1-wire applications direct from Ford. Especially with such low output ratings.

However I wired it directly back into the external volt regulator until I could figure it out.

Why? And does it work? What color wires do you have going where?
Do you get a good reading of 14.5 volts or so at the battery? Does your ammeter still work? Is this an old universal Painless harness, or one of the newer Bronco-specific versions?

As soon as I track down the gauge problem, make a relayed circuit for the new fuel pump, I will be installing my new 90/130 amp alternator.

With the mess it sounds like you might have now, you might just consider putting that in there ahead of time.
I understand wanting to track down an issue before you put something new in, but since the charging system seems to be of unknown origin and of strange behavior, you might go against that rule just this once. ;D

Anyway, aside from the main issue, I'm curious how the charging system was working before this.
And good idea to put that fuel pump relay in there.

Thanks. Hang in there.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and you got more pics of this setup under the hood?
Did we see some before and I just forgot? If so, got a link to the thread?

Paul

 

[WARDOG]

PAINLESS wiring harness installed by PO. Seems to be Bronco specific.
Ok I tracked down some of the problems, I can answer some of your questions, and then ask some more. This will be long-winded, you might need some scotch, I certainly have some.
I'm not going to install the new 90/130 alternator until I have these problems solved.
The electronic fuel pump installed by PO less than 300 miles ago burned up.
The 10 amp fuse to the panel (blk/grn) was popped.
The hot wire used to power the pump was the yellow/wht wire from the instrument panel, after the panel regulator. There was no fused hot wire directly to the fuse panel. The pump ran through the instrument panel, using the aux. fuel sending wire. Upon inspecting the pump mounted on the frame by the rear fuel tank, it was a disaster waiting to happen. See first pic. There was no sealant used on the threads of the in-line filter attached to the pump. It leaked fuel down onto the wire loom, where all of the 12v splices, and the ground wires to the frame were. I opened up the loom and a 1/4 cup of gas poured out. The fuel line was all rubber from the carb to the tank, sagging and drooping. The wire loom for all of the rear lights, and fuel pump were zip tied to the fuel line.
I fabbed up a plate to hold two fuel pumps (One spare) on the right inside of the frame away from the wire loom on the other side. I then bent 3/8" steel fuel line from the tank to the pumps, then all the way to the carb. Being careful not to get it near the exhaust. See pic #2.
I ran four new wires, each switched from the fuse block, to the rear of the vehicle. One for the pump and the other three for lights in the future. Since I had to open up the loom, now was the time to run the additional wires.
I cut the old wire running to the old fuel pump and terminated it since I don't have an aux tank sending unit, and I don't know if it was running on reduced voltage since it was after the gauge regulator.
The gauges are still acting up. When I turn the key to 'ON' the fuel gauge pegs out, even though I know I have half a tank. When I start the engine the oil pressure gauge pegs out as well. The ammeter, and the temp gauge don't move. The gauge cluster fuse at the fuse block has popped twice randomly and another time when the gauge regulator arced on the metal dash panel.
While I was fishing around under the dash, I found that the instrument panel voltage regulator had broken off from the back of the panel. If I unplug the regulator, the fuel and oil gauges stop sending (expected).
The volts from the black / green wire (from fuse block to regulator) reads 13.5 v or so. The regulator is putting out 12.4 v or so.
Now the real surprise was when the regulator was plugged in, I attempted to push it up into the dash and the body of the regulator arc'ed out on the grounded metal dash popping the 10 amp fuse. I then checked the body of the regulator, and it is reading 13.5 v. IS THIS RIGHT? Looking up into the back of the gauge cluster where the original tab held the regulator, it looks like it is supposed to be grounded onto the panel.
I am lost at this point. I purchased a spare gauge regulator ($65 !) and it is acting the same as the OEM regulator.

NOW as far as the replacement 63 amp, single wire alternator and the external voltage regulator: See pic #3.
The heavy gauge blk/yel wire (coming from the loom) and the orange wire are terminated. The split yellow wire - one goes to a cylinder 'thingy-oh' (speak up if you know what that is) and the other goes into the loom. The single heavy gauge wire from the alt. goes to the maxi-fuse, then on to the starter solenoid.
According to the PAINLESS wiring diagram, the 10 ga. blk/ylw wire should be going to the ammeter input via the maxi-fuse. I honestly don't know if the ammeter gauge has ever worked.
After looking at pics of alternators, with blade types that the old one had, it looks to be an AC Delco externally regulated, but not hooked up with the external voltage regulator.
There is still an issue with the fuel pump pulsing. Before wiring in the new pump, the pump would pulse to the tune of either turn signal indicator. Now, it only pulses with the right turn signal on. So there is still something going on, maybe with a ground.

SO it comes down to this. How is the gauge cluster voltage regulator supposed to work? Why is it putting out voltage through the case, how much voltage is it supposed to be putting out. What additional problems can be causing my gauges to peg out?
Thanks for your time. I need to refill my scotch.

 

[DirtDonk]

You've been busy! Fun stuff.
Nice job on the fuel pump array and new hard lines. Good idea on the date coding as well. Might as well know how long your rubber hoses last. It's usually just a guess. Now you will KNOW.

PAINLESS wiring harness installed by PO. Seems to be Bronco specific.

Agreed. Given the Ford-specific wire colors, it "should be" the newer Bronco harness that Eric worked on.

The electronic fuel pump installed by PO less than 300 miles ago burned up.
The 10 amp fuse to the panel (blk/grn) was popped.

The hot wire used to power the pump was the yellow/wht wire from the instrument panel, after the panel regulator. There was no fused hot wire directly to the fuse panel. The pump ran through the instrument panel, using the aux. fuel sending wire.

Say WHAT!!!!? Or, as they say on Mythbusters, "Well there's your problem...."
I'm guessing that this would contribute to the pulsing fuel pump. And also the early demise of several components. Namely the IVR and anything else in that circuit that can't take the amp draw of a fuel pump.
I'm pretty sure that the wire in the Painless system is slightly up-rated from stock original, but none of that is geared towards flowing the current needed to power a pump, for the distance that it is from the source.
Hence the burned out pump and the funky gauge readings and possibly a roasted voltage regulator.
At least a possibility. I haven't checked out the diagrams to see what the two wires you indicate (Green w/black and Yellow w/white), but will do so and chime back in if I see anything I missed.

I ran four new wires, each switched from the fuse block, to the rear of the vehicle. One for the pump and the other three for lights in the future. Since I had to open up the loom, now was the time to run the additional wires.

Right you are. But what is the line from the fuse box to the pump attached to? An unused aux circuit, or is it sharing with other components?
And no relay? If not, make sure that whatever switch the power is being pulled through (the ignition switch presumably?) is capable of handling the extra loads.

I cut the old wire running to the old fuel pump and terminated it since I don't have an aux tank sending unit, and I don't know if it was running on reduced voltage since it was after the gauge regulator.

I'd say it was! That wire is for a sending unit. Not a constant and mildly heavy load. And NEVER for a pump.
If it's a stock type, it's actually putting out a pulsed signal of probably an average of 7 or 8 volts or so. Maybe 6? I don't know, but I know it's pulsed.
And it was never made to handle a load like a fuel pump. A sending unit is controlling the pathway to ground, so the actual "load" is extremely low. A pump on the other hand is trying to literally pull so much more just to keep running, that I'm surprised that the IVR could actually fire the pump.
In fact, I had my doubts you had the wires right when I read the first paragraph. But you obviously have tracked this all down carefully and noted which wires. I'm just shocked it worked.

The gauges are still acting up. When I turn the key to 'ON' the fuel gauge pegs out, even though I know I have half a tank. When I start the engine the oil pressure gauge pegs out as well.

The ammeter, and the temp gauge don't move.

Not sure about the temp gauge, but the ammeter not working is correct for the current setup. That Black w/yellow wire that's cut under the hood is your proof.

The gauge cluster fuse at the fuse block has popped twice randomly and another time when the gauge regulator arced on the metal dash panel.

I'll let Eric talk about that if he catches this. I'd have to study the diagram again, but he can probably say whether that would be an issue with the IVR, ground, previous damage done by the pump, or something else.

While I was fishing around under the dash, I found that the instrument panel voltage regulator had broken off from the back of the panel. If I unplug the regulator, the fuel and oil gauges stop sending (expected).
The volts from the black / green wire (from fuse block to regulator) reads 13.5 v or so. The regulator is putting out 12.4 v or so.
Now the real surprise was when the regulator was plugged in, I attempted to push it up into the dash and the body of the regulator arc'ed out on the grounded metal dash popping the 10 amp fuse. I then checked the body of the regulator, and it is reading 13.5 v. IS THIS RIGHT? Looking up into the back of the gauge cluster where the original tab held the regulator, it looks like it is supposed to be grounded onto the panel.
I am lost at this point. I purchased a spare gauge regulator ($65 !) and it is acting the same as the OEM regulator.

The regulator HAS to be grounded (to the cluster is best) or it will not function properly. Probably why you are getting full voltage and pegged gauges and sparks.
I would expect it to show the voltage with a meter attached to the case, since the case is the ground that completes the circuit. But I don't know for a fact what it should read while it's not bolted down vs bolted down.
And yes, I would expect at least some little sparkage when you touch a ground because that's what happens sometimes when you complete any circuit.
So not saying it's right, but not saying it's wrong yet either. One of the others can answer that unequivocally.

First things first. Attach the new regulator to the cluster and try again. Not sure if you could have damaged the new one with all the fiddling, but might as well try it and see what happens.

NOW as far as the replacement 63 amp, single wire alternator and the external voltage regulator: See pic #3.

Still haven't seen a pic of the alternator I don't think. Can you show that too please? Might help figure this out.
But a 1-wire alt does not use an external regulator, and a GM alternator will probably not work with a Ford regulator wired like ours. It might work if the wires were changed, or not, but probably not as it sits.
Besides, what good does an external regulator do when the Orange Field wire is disconnected anyway?

The heavy gauge blk/yel wire (coming from the loom) and the orange wire are terminated. The split yellow wire - one goes to a cylinder 'thingy-oh' (speak up if you know what that is) and the other goes into the loom. The single heavy gauge wire from the alt. goes to the maxi-fuse, then on to the starter solenoid.

All of that is again why your ammeter is non-functioning. Even if the Black w/yellow wire was still being used, the single heavy gauge wire direct to the battery would have negated anything it was trying to do. Right now 100% of your charging power goes straight to the battery (via the starter relay) and none goes through the ammeter.

The Yellow wires are 1) system voltage sensing from the battery, and 2) the radio noise suppressor (the 'thingy-oh') so should have full battery voltage all the time. Key on OR off.

According to the PAINLESS wiring diagram, the 10 ga. blk/ylw wire should be going to the ammeter input via the maxi-fuse. I honestly don't know if the ammeter gauge has ever worked.

It might have, but it never has in this particular configuration.
The Maxi-Fuse is supposed to be on the Black wire from the starter relay/solenoid post. If it's inline with the Black w/yellow wire that is cut, then it's literally not protecting anything right now, except for if that wire happens to touch a ground and short out.
Can you trace the Black wire (same gauge as the Black w/yellow) from the starter relay and see where it goes?

After looking at pics of alternators, with blade types that the old one had, it looks to be an AC Delco externally regulated, but not hooked up with the external voltage regulator.

Which would explain why it's not working. Or is it? Since you have 13.5 volts at the battery, it sounds to me like it's charging at least some of the time.
Can you get a reading at the battery with the engine running? Should be 14 to 14.5 volts, generally speaking.
Let us know what you get.

There is still an issue with the fuel pump pulsing. Before wiring in the new pump, the pump would pulse to the tune of either turn signal indicator. Now, it only pulses with the right turn signal on. So there is still something going on, maybe with a ground.

Could be the ground, but it sounds like you might want to take the power for the pump from somewhere else besides that wire at the fuse panel.
If that Green w/black wire is for the IVR, find another one. If it's for the general accessory circuit (if there is such a thing in this harness) then tie it to the pump through a relay anyway. This gets power straight from the battery without any of the fussiness and funny business you seem to be experiencing.
Pump should be through a relay anyway, in my opinion. If only to give you more options.

What additional problems can be causing my gauges to peg out?

1. Sending units failed, wired incorrectly, or somehow otherwise getting a straight path to ground.
2. That same bad IVR we were talking about.
3. Some other wiring discrepancy from the PO at the cluster.
4. Whether it's a possible cause or not, make sure the cluster is grounded to the dash, and that the dash is grounded to the body, and that the body is grounded to the battery at one hundred and sixty three locations of your choice. ;D

How's the Scotch holding out?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I forgot to add that, aside from adding a relay to the system and pulling power either straight from the battery or from a very healthy connection to the battery, you should be using at least 14ga wire between the battery and the pump.
Since it's that far back on the frame, it's about as far away from the battery as you can get.
For this reason, not only should your power wire be of a healthy gauge, but your grounds should be super clean and sanitary.
And if you're grounding the pump to the frame, make sure that the frame has a super good ground itself.

Along those lines, what is your grounding setup? Here's the minimum I would say.

1. A BIG cable from the battery to the engine block (the closer it is to the starter the better)
2. From the battery to the body. At least 10ga here, but more is certainly ok.
3. A healthy wire, cable, or strap from the engine to the body.
4. From either the engine, or the battery OR both, to the frame.

All attachments to the body and the frame have to be cleaned of paint, rust or other resistance. Just the threads of a sheet-metal screw are not enough. Sure they work when new, but they're trouble waiting to happen.
I always grind the paint and rust off, attach the ground and then paint over it to keep it clean and looking good.

I like to use two grounds from the engine. One between the intake manifold and firewall (like the factory does to other vehicles) and one between the engine and frame rail.
This last is overkill and probably not needed. But why wouldn't you?
Just sayin'...

Anyway, just thought I'd throw that out there since you're running an important component like a fuel pump way in the back and probably grounding it to the frame.
And personally, I'd use a different position for the ground than that for the fuel tank sending units. Judging by the location of the pumps, I'm "assuming" you did. But if they're sharing a ground, even though it's probably perfectly fine, I'd put the pump(s) on their own dedicated ground to the frame.

Good luck. Waiting to see pics of the alternator.

Paul

 

[WARDOG]

Making progress.....

.... But what is the line from the fuse box to the pump attached to? An unused aux circuit, or is it sharing with other components?
And no relay?

The new power to the fuel pump is taken from the bussed fuse panel. Accessory, fused 5 amp, switched RUN, but not THROUGH the ignition.
It does not share any other circuit. I didn't think it would need a relay since the pump only pulls 2 amps, and uses the suggested 5 amp fuse.

I'd have to study the diagram again, but he can probably say whether that would be an issue with the IVR, ground, previous damage done by the pump, or something else.

I am too wary about potential damage done. The previous fuel pump that stopped working, bench tested fine for about 2 minutes until it then 'thermalled-out' and quit. Obvious permanent damage done from running under required voltage for 300 miles.

The regulator HAS to be grounded (to the cluster is best) or it will not function properly. Probably why you are getting full voltage and pegged gauges and sparks. Attach the new regulator to the cluster and try again. Not sure if you could have damaged the new one with all the fiddling, but might as well try it and see what happens.

Done and done. I plugged in the new IVR and the gauges still pegged out. I installed it back onto the back of the cluster and everything remained the same. I took some emery cloth to the mounting location and reinstalled the IVR and Viola! The fuel and Oil pressure gauges calmed right down and began reading accurately. So YES the IVR must be grounded to the back of the cluster to work properly. Although the old IVR seemed to still work, I fear it was damaged by having the load go through it too long so I installed the new IVR.
The Oil Pressure has always seemed a bit low (less than 20# at idle, never getting above 40# at cruise). I purchased a new sending unit and will install it Friday to see if it gets any better. If it offers the same readings, I just have a spare for the trail if oil pressure dumps.
The temp gauge never moved, but it that is not uncommon when it is just idling. The engine runs cool. probably too cool, and I may have to check the thermostat for winter driving.

The Yellow wires ... and 2) the radio noise suppressor (the 'thingy-oh') so should have full battery voltage all the time. Key on OR off. Paul

Thank you for that answer.

I attached a pic of the replacement alternator, but I don't know what you could glean from it. I can't get a clear view of the back. It charges fine. The make I can't tell you either. I had to give up the box for the core charge. Doesn't matter much as the new Alt will be going on as soon as I tackle these problems.

The right rear turn signal faults out at the turn signal switch in the column. I had to pull the steering wheel. The pulsing 12 volts never gets from the solid blue wire (from the flasher) to the solid green- which is what eventually runs all of the way to the right rear turn signal. I jumped voltage across the switch and the signal came on, so I know the path is good. Also the Emergency Flasher switch crumbled when I hit it under the dash, only to discover about half a tube of superglue was holding it together and attached to the rear of the dash. I ordered a new turn signal switch and hazard switch from Wild Horses and they should be here tomorrow (I'm only about 2.5 hours away).
The fuel pump is still pulsing with the right turn signal on, but I'll see what happens with the new switches. The fuel pump is bolted to an aluminum plate which is grounded to the frame in a freshly tapped hole. I tapped two extra holes in the plate for additional grounds if needed so I am not always attacking the frame.
The heater fan switch was also funky, hitting and missing speeds outside of the detents so I ordered a new one of those as well.
I am going to take your advice and clean and install several new grounding locations for the dash, to and from the frame and battery.
I will be removing the remnants of the old external voltage regulator when I install the new 130 amp alt, extra batt, isolator, circuit breakers etc.

Thanks for your input.

 

[707Bronk]

Just one word of caution from my recent experience. Any hose on the vacuum side of the pump that has a coil or bend in it like that might be prone to collapsing and sucking itself closed and starving the pump.

Also, besides a fuel pump relay (which I agree with Donk), you might consider a fuel pump safety shut off device like an oil pressure safety switch or an inertia switch. Perhaps not now, but after you get all the other wiring problems soved. But, both of these would require a relay circuit.

 

[WARDOG]

707Bronk - Thanks for the advice. What was the setup where the hose collapsed? Was it fuel injection?
As you can see by my pic of the fuel pumps, the loop of hose was made to accomodate plugging it in to either pump. Maybe that isn't the way to go. I can make a short section of steel line so I can get the bend without collapsing.
In my fuel line routing I was dictated by avoiding the hot exhaust, and so that there would never be a union situated so if it leaked, it would not leak onto the exhaust. I even adhered to that as the line entered the engine bay.
Regarding the relay suggested by you and Donk. I have only used relays in the past for circuits pulling heavy amps, usually over 15. If the power is coming from a bussed fuse panel, what is the advantage of putting a relay in a circuit of only 5 amps max?
Do you have any schematics for the fuel pump safety switch?

 

[707Bronk]

I'm not EFI yet, still carbed.

I had a section of hose that made less than a 180degree turn, it wasn't even a tight turn. I made the hose long so that it made a wide turn into the fuel pump inlet. It was brand new goodyear fuel hose and my fuel pump sucked it close. I didn't know what was going on and went undernieth to check voltage at fuel pump and saw the hose collapsed under vaccum. Fuel was still getting through, but it was clearly restricted. I blame the hose more than anything, but I suspect that any hose will loose its wall integrity sooner or later, especially with modern fuels.

I ordered some new fuel hose from jegs and it's walls were a lot stiffer than the goodyear hose. But I still plumbed in a hard line to make the turn.

Now that I have a single 23gal tank I don't even have to make that turn anymore.

If you aren't going to run any safety shut off stuff then you could be able to run it through the fuse panel just fine. But, if you are running a oil pressure safety switch then you would be running the full 2-5amps throgh the entire circuit, and adding the relay makes things much easier actually.

Its true, its unneeded and overkill for such low amps, but its also a vital part of keeping the rig running. A constant 2-5amps running through the fuse box is still a lot of amps. My approach is to minimize the constant amps from running through the fuse box. If your fuse box is in the dash, then you are likely running hose 2-5amps an extra 6-10ft.

By running a relay you are protecting your fuse box from a fuel pump short as well as protecting your fuel pump from a fuse box short. Where does insurance become overkill, IDK?

I attached a diagram is the one I used (http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html)

I am not sure of the inertia switch which a lot of people run. There are +/- to both. This was just easier for me during my rewire. I have seen the inertia switch wiring diagrams around here, I just don't have one. I have seen what a car looks like without some sort of fuel pump safety switch though: total loss of the vehicle and unfotunately badly burned driver...

I'm sure Donk will have some words of wisdom...

 

[DirtDonk]

...I'm sure Donk will have some words of wisdom...

Not a chance.
Anything I add to that clear description would just muddy it up and confuse everybody.

Carry on.

Great pic of your interior WARDOG!
I think Painless should use it as a humorous way to show how "simple" and "clean" wiring up a new harness can be.
Wouldn't be surprised to see it in the next catalog. ;D


Paul

 

[WARDOG]

Donk-
I can't blame Painless for this mess. IN this case the new harness was installed by the P.O. in his 're-build'. In trouble shooting the fuel pump problem, I discovered that he plugged the 'clearly marked & numbered' wires into the wrong fuse port locations in the fuse panel. I am having to track each wire now, color code, accessory, switched, constant or run, to what function the support, and make my own wiring / fuse diagram.

 

[jw0747]

Painless has the wiring manual online in pdf format.

http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/10113.pdf

 

[DirtDonk]

...I am having to track each wire now, color code, accessory, switched, constant or run, to what function the support, and make my own wiring / fuse diagram.

Well that sucks. To say the least!
It's more work to fix something later than to do it right the first time. Unfortunately, you're the "later" part, so you get the dirty work.

Hang in there. The good news is there won't be anything you don't know about the entire electrical system of a Bronco!
Very confidence inspiring when some gremlin pops up down the road. ;D

Paul

 

[WARDOG]

Solved it!

I am only posting this for future users to help with their diagnostics for electrical problems.

I spent the last two days troubleshooting the right rear turn signal, and the surging of the fuel pump when the right turn signal switch was on. The right trun signal light on the dash was always flashing dimmer than the left, and it led me to assume it was a ground issue. I was wrong.
Beyond the bad IVR ground to the Instrument panel, and the fuel pump wired through the IVR....
I thought the problem lied in the turn signal switch or a ground.
I received my new turn signal switch. I ohm'ed out the connections from the current switch to the new one and all connections ohm'ed the same. I spent hours ohm'ing out wires throughout the body, jumping power etc. Finally I installed the new switch and it didn't change a thing. However when installing the new switch pins into the multi-pin connector, two of the wire colors did not match directly across the connector, and were different colors entirely when coming from the turn signal switch harness to the mating harness. There was not a schematic with the new switch, and the only instructions were to feed the wires of the switch through the column noting what position the old signal switch pins were in the connector.
The signal switch wire loom had two alternate colors not matching on the other side of the connector. The colors were orange and red/black. After fussing with grounds, I decided to switch the two odd colored wires with each other in case the P.O. got it wrong in the first place. BINGO! The P.O. had wired the connector incorrectly when he installed the Painless Harness.
With the pins in the correct location it also stopped the fuel pump surging when the turn signal is on, and the right turn indicator lit as brightly as the left.
Now I have to put everything back together.
If anyone is interested, I can post a diagram of what wire colors from the column turn signal switch and how they mate to the wire colors in the connector on the other side.

Thank you for all that offered advice and suggestions.
Next week I'll be installing the dual batt's, isolator, batt. circuit breakers, and 130 amp alt.
Cheers-

 

[Pa PITT]

I Do think a diagram of the wiring set up might help someone .. I hope I never have to go through your issues. But back when I installed my 79 steering column I like to have never got flashers .

 

[Teal68]

Wardog,
Bringing this back from the past baby! I am having trouble with my steering column wires and the painless harness. Any chance you could post that pic or diagram you mentioned?

Thanks,
Tyler