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Wiring up Courtesy Lights w/ Door Switches

crutch

Full Member
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Jul 3, 2015
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249
I've read some threads on the door switches but was hoping someone could confirm I understand correctly so I drew up a schematic. I'm not that familiar with the stock light switch and how it works with regards to the courtesy lights. I heard that there was a bullet connector under the dash but I'm not sure if that is ground connection or 12V. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Slowleak

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I did mine a few years ago. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263347

If I remember correctly, the bullet connector is a positive feed to the dome light. I built a harness for mine which plugs into that bullet connector to feed the dome light from the door switches.

My power to the door switches feeds from the hot wire on the light switch. It goes to an override switch under the dash first so I can switch it off if I want to leave the doors open. All bulbs are grounded and the door switches feed them power. The door switch power also feeds to the bullet connector for the dome switch.

Your drawing looks correct except the light switch should provide positive battery power just like your override switch. That way, with the doors open, and the override switch on, you get all lights. With the override switch off, you get no lights unless you rotate the light switch. Then you get all lights.

You can do all this with just a plug in harness, no need to butcher any wires or drill any holes.

I hope that helps.

Here is my override switch. It fits nicely in one of the holes under the column.
da696ab740347c437bb30bd22a54b7d4.jpg
 
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crutch

crutch

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Ok, thanks. If the bullet connector is a positive feed then it changes the approach. Thought I had read people were using the door switches to connect to ground and close the circuit. The particular switches I bought use the thru bolt screwed to the body as the ground so there is only one connection on the switch. I cant use these for the positive circuit.


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Slowleak

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Ok, thanks. If the bullet connector is a positive feed then it changes the approach. Thought I had read people were using the door switches to connect to ground and close the circuit. The particular switches I bought use the thru bolt screwed to the body as the ground so there is only one connection on the switch. I cant use these for the positive circuit.


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If the switch grounds the connection when open, you can use them to provide a ground for the bulbs.
 
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crutch

crutch

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Does yours allow you to turn on all the lights by turning the light switch knob even with the doors closed? That's where I'm getting confused on how to make that happen if the bullet is positive.


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Fallingcedar

Jr. Member
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Aug 6, 2015
Messages
54
Rather than routing all of your bulb grounds back to the door switch circuit, you can employ a relay to add power to your bulbs. Forgive the chicken scratch, but you can see one way to tackle the circuit here.
 

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Slowleak

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Does yours allow you to turn on all the lights by turning the light switch knob even with the doors closed? That's where I'm getting confused on how to make that happen if the bullet is positive.


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Yes. The dome and courtesy lights come on with the light switch now or wine a door is opened. If I flip the override switch then they only come one when the knob is turned with the door open or closed.

Here is a diagram someone did.
e81a284c2a48565efcce22274f990e53.jpg
 

Slowleak

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Ok. I found my old drawing. The blue and green wires are the new harness. All wires are positive and the bulbs are all grounded.

You can see how power routes thru the green wire when the knob is turned. It routes thru the blue wire unless the override switch is open. The blue wire is disrupted by the door switch unless the door is open. Then it completes the circuit and also feeds the dome light. Sorry about the rambling.....

e850a78b18971eb6e20f216ca6fc7cc4.jpg
 
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crutch

crutch

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Great, thanks. This makes sense. I just need to get different door switches.


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Slowleak

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Great, thanks. This makes sense. I just need to get different door switches.


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Yes. You need some momentary on switches. I was looking for surface mount ones and all I could find were the guitar pedal switches. They worked out great. Wait, maybe that's momentary off...... you know what u need. Good luck.
 

Maggi

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Nov 13, 2016
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Want to do this to mine also, which switches are you guys using

1971 uncut
 

Slowleak

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Where do you mount the switch on door post?


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There is a picture in this thread. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2808581

I ran the wires behind the weatherstripping and thru that little gap between the side panel and the dash. I attached the courtesy lights to the bottom of the dash panel. You may have to test fit the switches like I did in the thread. You don't want to crush one with the door.

There should be a blue/black wire with a bullet connector in about the middle of your dash. That is for a map light, or courtesy light. You can plug into it to get the connection to the dome light/dome light switch.
 
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Steve83

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Factory '80-96 Bronco (& F-series & others) door switches work perfectly, and they're nearly free in any JY. A small plate is needed to mount one on the driver's side where the transmission temperature sensor would go. Wiring can come through a new hole in the kick near the dash.

This shows the new hole on the passenger side near the top:

The smaller hole below with wiring going in is for power windows/locks.

This shows the plate & switch on the driver's side:


Passenger switch:
 

KeithKinPhx

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Jan 8, 2017
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444
Never would have thought of guitar pedal switches for the door jam. Learn something new every day on classicbroncos.com.
 
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