Wiring Volt Gauge in Cluster

[TWOSTICKMEDIC]

I just got my dash back from powder coating, and the cluster back from Classy Chassis Restoration. I am almost done putting the dash back together. I need help with the volt gauge wiring; on the back of the volt gauge is a positive and a negative. Can I use yellow/red wire from the stereo for the positive, and tie the black/white ground wire going to all the other gauges as my negative?
The large black/white wire that did go to the amp gauge, do I need to disconnect it from the system? I’m not sure if it went to the alternator or somewhere else.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Looks nice.

The black-white wire is not a ground. Connect the negative to a screw that holds the IVR on or one of the gauges in. Positive can go to the stud terminal on the back of the ignition switch.

The 10g black wire needs to be connected. It goes to the alternator.

 

[asinor]

The 10g black wire needs to be connected. It goes to the alternator.

Is this one of the optional wires to reconnect in a 3G swap since you do away with the charging loop through the ammeter?

 

[DirtDonk]

Not 100% sure what you're asking asinor, but if you mean does it have to stay connected back at the gauge, then yes.
With a stock harness, the push-type connector (near the ammeter) on that Black wire has to be connected together or nothing will work.

If you meant is it one that you can re-purpose for other things, then yes to that too.
Since it has full battery power at the alternator end at all times (it's literally connected to the battery at the starter relay) and is one of the largest wires in the old harness (if not THE largest) then re-using it for something is a good option.

Because of that though, if you don't re-use it right away, or at least connect it's end to a protected power stud of your own install, then at least cut it and cap it off good for safety.

Paul

 

[asinor]

Thanks, Paul, I didn't remember if I had capped mine off or reconnected, I will check to night. I will be ordering your volt meter replacement soon.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Is this one of the optional wires to reconnect in a 3G swap since you do away with the charging loop through the ammeter?

Well that connector isn't really optional to reconnect or not. The side that goes to the alternator also powers the ignition switch. If you leave it disconnected the ignition switch won't work.

If you want to eliminate the loop do it under the hood. I recommend connecting it to the other end at the starter solenoid with a fusible link.

 

[TWOSTICKMEDIC]

Viperwolf1 to the rescue again. Thank you.

 

[Quick & Dirty]

Here's a simplified diagram of what's going on. The wire that goes through the ammeter loop connects the alternator to the battery, so it has to stay connected, of get rerouted some other way.

 

[DirtDonk]

On a friend's Bronco with a Centech harness, we took the main Charge wire that would have gone to the alternator and hooked it to an auxiliary power terminal strip (stud farm?) on the passenger side inner fender wall. It's that type you see with (I think) 5 separate studs on a phenolic base with top shield on '88-'99 GM trucks.
This keeps the number of wires attached to the starter relay post to a minimum. Not always an issue, but sometimes that stud can get pretty full of power feeds, so I like to run separate terminal studs.

We hooked the charge wire to one stud, the key-on wire that used to go to the external voltage regulator to another, and a jumper from the key-start wire from the starter relay.
That way we have studs with: full-time battery power, switched battery power, and start-only battery power, to use for other accessories.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Looks like your harness is looking for a Bronco Quick & Dirty!
Nice to be able to have it all out and see what goes where, rather than trying to visualize the whole scheme. Looks like it's in good shape too.

Interesting that your wires at the plug are Black w/yellow and Red. I've only seen Black wires there.
What year Bronco is the harness from? And where does the Red color end?

Thanks for the visual aid.

Paul

 

[Quick & Dirty]

Looks like it's in good shape too.

Parts of it are in good shape. Other parts, not so much. Cuts, splices, corroded/broken connectors etc. Good for reference though, after I unwound it all.

What year Bronco is the harness from?

1974

And where does the Red color end?

At the engine side of the firewall it switches to black again. It has a factory bullet connector, but I'm not sure about the splice. The tape wrap looked original.

 

[Viperwolf1]

There are a few splices like that in the original harness.

I see what happened. There was a connector on the engine side where those wires are spliced. That connector was a problem child. It tended to get hot, crack and melt. It had the 2 10g wires and the green-red wire. It probably shorted one of the 10g wires to ground. The red wire was spliced in to replace it.

 

[HOT RAM]

Thanks, Paul, I didn't remember if I had capped mine off or reconnected, I will check to night. I will be ordering your volt meter replacement soon.

A voltmeter replacement ?? Where can I get one ??/

 

[DirtDonk]

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/VoltageGaugeStockCluster

There are also some writeups here showing how to make your own from a standard voltmeter too. It's less expensive that way, but it won't usually have the same stock looking contour that ours does.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

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