• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Wish me luck - New suspension swap

OP
OP
TorchRedTulsan

TorchRedTulsan

Full Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
224
Thanks Torch. Did you purchase the suggested front/rear stainless brake hoses, or the emergency brake cables? I'm thinking this might be a good idea for me.

Yes, I bought the brake hoses, but not the e brake cables. Only because I don't ever use my e brake (not endorsing that as a good idea), so I don't even know if it's hooked up

Also, if you haven't already ordered parts, the coils and leaf springs were on back order. "Something" shipped yesterday, but I'm not sure what all will be included. Thur will be like Christmas in Apr!
 

blamejane

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
1,975
Yes, I bought the brake hoses, but not the e brake cables. Only because I don't ever use my e brake (not endorsing that as a good idea), so I don't even know if it's hooked up

I hate to admit it too, but I don't think I've ever used my e-brake. The Chief (Master Sarg) suggested the e-brake cables to me, but I haven't purchased them for this same reason. I'm wondering if I haven't been thinking about this incorrectly however. The e-brake cable is supposedly going to act as a "boot-strap" to the suspension, regardless of whether or not we use the e-brake.

Also, if you haven't already ordered parts, the coils and leaf springs were on back order. "Something" shipped yesterday, but I'm not sure what all will be included. Thur will be like Christmas in Apr!

Thanks but I've had my kit since Dec, xmas present from my hubby. ;D
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,964
I hate to admit it too, but I don't think I've ever used my e-brake.

A lot of people still don't so you're in good company. I've always wondered why though. Unless you're always 100% parking on level ground, seems to me it just makes sense to use it.
If you rely on a manual transmission, a good enough grade will leave you rolling at some point as the compression bleeds down.
If you have an automatic, for as long as I can remember every manufacturer in the world has said to NOT rely on the parking pawl in your automatic as a means to safely lock the vehicle in position. It's too small, too likely to jam up when used on an incline, and can break and leave the vehicle rolling.
Neither of those applies if you're always on relatively flat ground of course, but it's still nice to have a backup. That's what utility vehicles and being prepared was all about for me.

I can't say I've ever known anyone that's broken a parking pawl, but I've known people who've literally had their automatics pop out of park, and a manual pop out of gear and go rolling away. In fact, Ford automatics were known for doing this back in the seventies.
Was it the people not putting them in all the way or something else? Dunno, but it just seems to make sense to utilize the "parking brake" when a vehicle is parked.


The Chief (Master Sarg) suggested the e-brake cables to me, but I haven't purchased them for this same reason. I'm wondering if I haven't been thinking about this incorrectly however. The e-brake cable is supposedly going to act as a "boot-strap" to the suspension, regardless of whether or not we use the e-brake.

If you're not going to wheel a Bronco, the stock parking brake cables are fine for normal use with up to a 3.5" total lift (body lifts count too), and maybe even a little taller.
But if you're going to want your suspension to flex out to the maximum that all it's other components will allow, your brake cables will definitely be the limiting factor with 3.5" of total lift.
I've wheeled with stock ones, but know for a fact that they were my suspension limiters. Still made all the trails I tried, but could have done them a little easier with longer ones.

If you don't use your parking brake then, and want your suspension to work off-road, then just leave the cables completely off.
Personally I would utilize the added backup/safety of the already supplied system and just get longer cables.
But don't trust me. I sell the things so have a vested interest. ;D Get second and third opinions and see which way you want to go.

Paul
 
OP
OP
TorchRedTulsan

TorchRedTulsan

Full Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
224
My leaf springs are still on back order. Now they're expected to be shipped out in 2 weeks. So, should I go ahead and install just the front, install the rear minus the leaf springs, or wait and do it all at once?
 

hammer189

Full Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
339
Loc.
South Atlanta
Front and back are seperate jobs. I would get started now on the front. The job isn't difficult mentally just physically! Get an impact wrench to help bust loose rusted nuts and bolts. I did the same kit with a 1" body lift and moving the axle back 1" about 3 months ago. It caused me to stop and paint my frame so I know about one job causing an avalanch of work and money. Good luck
 

savage

Contributor
Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,483
Loc.
Renton
I did a 3.5" inch up front, and I'm just waiting for funds to get my rear springs. So go for it, then when your springs come in you can tackle that. The front went together with no problems, I hope the rear goes as good as the front did!! Have Fun!!
 
Last edited:

blamejane

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
1,975
How did yours go?? I was following along but I haven't seen an update this week

We decided to purchase an adjustable trac bar and R/L brake hoses, which didn't arrive until late Thursday. Couldn't work on it yesterday, but today is bronco day!!;D ...at least until 3 pm :p

Good luck with yours.
 
OP
OP
TorchRedTulsan

TorchRedTulsan

Full Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
224
We decided to purchase an adjustable trac bar and R/L brake hoses, which didn't arrive until late Thursday. Couldn't work on it yesterday, but today is bronco day!!;D ...at least until 3 pm :p

Good luck with yours.

That track bar is a piece of cake. Just remember to get an alignment after you're all done
 
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
38
Loc.
Lancaster ,Ca
We decided to purchase an adjustable trac bar and R/L brake hoses, which didn't arrive until late Thursday. Couldn't work on it yesterday, but today is bronco day!!;D ...at least until 3 pm :p

Good luck with yours.

Hello Im new here and I'm Installing a WH 2.5 #5 kits....back is done but the front im having problems with...alignment of coils and track bar not being long enough I noticed in this thread you mention TRACK BAR...lol....did yours fall short of a 1" or so? does this explain why my rig drove dog leg? any help would be great thanks Tom
 

savage

Contributor
Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,483
Loc.
Renton
If your tie rods are hooked up just turn your steering wheel and it should move it, that 1 inch you need, with a 2.5 inch lift you should be able to use your stock track bar. Everything needs to be assemble before you do this.
 

blamejane

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
1,975
I apologize for stepping in on this thread.....I just don't understand how to start my own and short of time to figure out right now.

I'm no expert Toms67, or I'd try to help. I'd go with what savage said. I didn't even bother with the original trac bar, so I can't tell you how far off mine was. I ordered the adjustable trac bar and it went on super easy.
 
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
38
Loc.
Lancaster ,Ca
If your tie rods are hooked up just turn your steering wheel and it should move it, that 1 inch you need, with a 2.5 inch lift you should be able to use your stock track bar. Everything needs to be assemble before you do this.

Well I got everything welded up all 4 shocks in... radius arms are stock powder coated......And I turn the wheel but still little short....the coil clearance is not good pass side is a finger between perch driver side finger and a half I have the radius arms snugged up should I loosen those?...2.5lift = 4 degree C-bushings?. this is on a Dana 44 FE..also I measured from frame to outside of drum pass side reads 14-1/4" driver side 15-1/4" turn wheel seem to reduce but last measured was 7/8......I done for today....more tomorrow I haven't given up yet!....I think I will buy the Adjustable Track Bar......come Monday

when I have all the equipment on and only the T-Bar to install do I have the axle jacked up? or lowered and Jack out?......seems when up the suspension is up it's preloaded to get this bar in so much I wouldn't have much travel in shocks.


Second Bronco I have done in a year the other had 5.5 lift with 3" body and no where near this much headache!.....that had a james duff radius arms though!


Thanks for your help
 
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
38
Loc.
Lancaster ,Ca
I'm no expert Toms67, or I'd try to help. I'd go with what savage said. I didn't even bother with the original trac bar, so I can't tell you how far off mine was. I ordered the adjustable trac bar and it went on super easy.

Any help is better than no help.....I am thinking of pulling the card to buy the adjustable......tHANKS Again
 

savage

Contributor
Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,483
Loc.
Renton
Do you have any pictures, I'm kind confused why it's not going back. I had a 3inch before I put the 3.5inch on and used my stock trac bar, is your bronco back on the ground? Wheels on, are your c bushing in correct?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,964
Hey Toms, welcome! I think it's ok to join in like that. I'm sure if there ends up being a bunch more you'll end up starting your own, but for now I have a suggestion that should help.

What savage said is true, but the tires have to be on the ground or usually nothing happens. Since the trackbar does not hold up anything, it's not a problem to literally put it on last after you're back on the ground and everything else is connected.
Mount the lower end of the bar and have someone gently and slowly turn the steering wheel. You'll instantly see the frame and body slide sideways in relation to the axle and can then align the upper mount and put the bolt through.

If it goes the wrong way, just turn the wheel the other way and it will come back.
Set up some alignment marks (if you haven't already) with pen and tape on the frame and the axle so you can verify your adjustments of the trackbar for centering the axle.

Paul
 
Top