Worn Knuckle?

[rollrock77]

Hi everyone!

I did a frame off restoration about 7-8 years ago, replaced all the steering linkage with new, kept the dana 44 knuckles and ground them down for disc brake conversion. I've got about 5000 miles on it since then (roughly 100,000 on the knuckles)...I know, need to drive it more ;-)

Took it to a shop for something else and they showed me how loose the tie rods were. They disassembled the rods and said the knuckle holes have been worn out, so the knuckles need replaced along with new rods.

I'm assuming either the knuckles were already worn out during the restoration and the mechanic didn't catch it, or he installed the rods incorrectly somehow. Mine is a street rig on the occasional weekend, no way my driving in 5000 miles did this unless something was incorrect at the time of restoration, right??

So my real question is... the shop didn't measure the knuckle holes but said there was wear inside, so how likely is it that the knuckles are actually worn? Or is it more likely just the tie rods are bad? I'm assuming the knuckle steel is harder than the tie rods, but I don't know. If I have to replace the knuckles so be it... would be nice to save some $$ if I can, but more than that I enjoy learning about our beloved beasts.

Thanks and Happy 4th!!

 

[SteveL]

Just ream the holes and buy the conversion sleeves. Bc carries em. Wh might.

 

[DirtDonk]

What Steve said.
Of course, with a reamer, you could even just clean up the hole if it’s only damaged slightly. A stock tie rod end might still fit.

 

[Madgyver]

Or upsize to 1 ton tie-rod ends and linkages. I would do this before getting any replacement knuckles.

 

[joshua]

If you needed knuckles they wouldn’t be hard to find! I have some that I can’t bring myself to toss out.

But I’m with ream team. Just do that.

 

[SteveL]

Or upsize to 1 ton tie-rod ends and linkages. I would do this before getting any replacement

Or upsize to 1 ton tie-rod ends and linkages. I would do this before getting any replacement knuckles.

Good upgrade but if you go there you may as well look into going tie-rod over. Then you gain clearance and a better drag link angle. Dessert thrasher had a good write up on the 1-ton swap

 

[rollrock77]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, much appreciated!

 

[rollrock77]

Just ream the holes and buy the conversion sleeves. Bc carries em. Wh might.

Steve, quick question on the reaming... do the sleeves just slide in then, or do they need to be pressed / slightly tapped into the reamed hole? Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

If the tapers are correct, and the size is appropriate, no pressing needed. Unless they’re talking about a different type of sleeve, these just mimic a rod end.
So just like the tapered stud of a rod end, they simply slip up inside and are held in place when you run the nut down to lock the tie rod end in.

There are sleeves that you simply drill out a hole, insert the sleeve and weld it in place. But the typical ones used by many of us are tapered inside and out.

I should ask, what year is your bronco? I see 77 in your username, but since your truck didn’t have disc brakes to begin with, it must be a 75 or earlier. There should be a sleeve available to fit that I would think. I’d have to triple check ours to see which ones fit what, but even if we don’t have the correct size, they should be out there.

 

[SteveL]

Steve, quick question on the reaming... do the sleeves just slide in then, or do they need to be pressed / slightly tapped into the reamed hole? Thanks!

Simple as ream it and drop em in, then install tie-rod. The one thing to watch is don't ream too deep. When reaming go for the top of the bushing to land flush. With that said it's better for the top edge of the bushing(tie-rod side) to be a little above the knuckle than inside the top edge of the knuckle. Again by top edge of the knuckle meaning tie-rod install side.

 

[rollrock77]

If the tapers are correct, and the size is appropriate, no pressing needed. Unless they’re talking about a different type of sleeve, these just mimic a rod end.
So just like the tapered stud of a rod end, they simply slip up inside and are held in place when you run the nut down to lock the tie rod end in.

There are sleeves that you simply drill out a hole, insert the sleeve and weld it in place. But the typical ones used by many of us are tapered inside and out.

I should ask, what year is your bronco? I see 77 in your username, but since your truck didn’t have disc brakes to begin with, it must be a 75 or earlier. There should be a sleeve available to fit that I would think. I’d have to triple check ours to see which ones fit what, but even if we don’t have the correct size, they should be out there.

Its a '73... thanks for the info! Have already looked at your sleeves and reamer tool ;-)

 

[rollrock77]

Simple as ream it and drop em in, then install tie-rod. The one thing to watch is don't ream too deep. When reaming go for the top of the bushing to land flush. With that said it's better for the top edge of the bushing(tie-rod side) to be a little above the knuckle than inside the top edge of the knuckle. Again by top edge of the knuckle meaning tie-rod install side.

Thanks! I think I'm going to get new tie rods and see if the knuckle holes are truly bad... if not my job is pretty easy then a quick trip to an alignment shop. If the holes are bad, I'll try the ream/sleeve option before going to new knuckles.