Yukon Zip Locker install question

[.94 OR]

I'm installing a Zip Locker in my 9" that I am also upgrading from a 28 spline to 31 spline axle. The carrier bearings are the 2.89" versus a more standard 3.06" I'm guessing and the side adjuster nuts have a center hole that is smaller than the snout on the locker carrier.

Can I just open up the center hole on the adjuster nut to clear the carrier, or will that lead to another issue further into the install?

 

[.94 OR]

Thanks for all the responses...

I got a call back from Yukon tech line and it appears my early 28 spline drop out is built with small components that is only rated for a max of 200 Hp. Not that I currently exceed that, but with a big foot and a full locker, I could be buyer parts in the future.

Now I am in the search for a larger third member to put my Zip Locker in.

 

[Apogee]

Are you looking to go used or new? I did this a few years ago and wish I'd gone with the Ø3.25" case and conversion bearings to run my 31-spline ARB, as it would have given me the option to upgrade to 35-spline in the future without a new case if I needed or wanted to. At this point, I'm pretty locked into 31-spline and that's fine for what I want to do, but it's always nice to have options.

 

[.94 OR]

I've always run 31" tires and I don't picture ever having anything over a 33" so I think a 31 spline axle setup will last my lifetime.

I'm not sure on new or used but finding few local options on CL to feel too entertaining at the moment but Summit and a supplier on ebay have a new carrier for $210 that might get me going again.

As for power, if a 351 fell in my lap I might put one in, but more than likely stay with a 302 based motor.

 

[Apogee]

I bought a Strange N-Series case (N1905) on super sale for $250, but you can get their new S-Series cases (S2205 or S2206) for about $225 or less, and they're on sale for the holidays as well (10% off plus free S&H). That $210 price at Summit may be the hot ticket at the moment for the S2205 unit.

I've run 31-spline axles in my '77 F150 with a 429 for years without issue (other than twisting the ring gear off the Trackloc) running 35" tires, and my EB will be similar but with 37's and a 351W, so I think you should be fine with 31's regardless of your power level.

If you wanted to go used, there seems to be several on Facebook Marketplace relatively local for reasonable prices. What gear ratio would you like? Limited slip or open?

 

[.94 OR]

I don't subscribe to Zuckerworld...

I currently run 3.50 gearing and it works fine for me. If I were looking for the used side, open or LS wouldn't matter as I would pop it out and drop the Zip Locker in so I have selectable capability. Yukon rep mentioned using a 31 spline third member as they were likely sturdier and would handle the locked axle situation better.

 

[Justafordguy]

I agree with Yukon, just get a case from a pickup, they where all 31 spline I believe.

 

[.94 OR]

New Strange carrier shows up with the larger bearings.

Now comes the fun part. The air collar for the locker won't fit inside the adjuster nut and the adjust nut sits too far outboard for the air collar to sit in place on the carrier snout.

Would machining the inner lip of the adjust nut down be advisable so the adjusting collar could be used? Without the nut in place, the air collar needs to be just flush with the side of the casting, with the nut in place it is about 1/8" too much for the air collar to slide into place.

If the lip is machined I might even have to open up the inner hole of the adjuster nut for clearance of the air collar.

Thoughts?

 

[.94 OR]

Update. I printed a mock side adjuster or what it would need to look like if milled out. Once this is in place, the air collar sits just right and the locker activates with air. As you can see, I kept the same inner ridge to hold the bearing race in, opened up the center for the air collar to pass through and recessed a pocket on the outside to allow the shoulder of the air collar to reside. I made the outer recess too deep, but for demo purposes it works well (over shot the depth by roughly the amount for the notch I took out for the air line).

Any reason a mill operator couldn't open up the center hole then make the recess? Any reason this wouldn't be strong enough since all the current threads are still intact. The spanner wrench holes would just be open to the inside hub hole and thinner.

Well, more digging and I come up with item #13 on the ARB parts list. Summit has it for $18.

 

[Apogee]

I have an ARB, so I didn't have that issue, but it looks like your solution basically mimics that of the ARB, so I can't see why it wouldn't work.

 

[Apogee]

I agree with Yukon, just get a case from a pickup, they where all 31 spline I believe.

Just for future reference, the F100 pickups with the single-speed transfer cases had 28-spline rear ends, so not all pickups had 31-spline, but most did.

 

[.94 OR]

I didn't have any luck finding anything local so I just ordered a Strange carrier for $208 from Summit. I called Yukon tech line and haven't heard back but I'll likely just order the ARB adjuster nut and go from there.

 

[.94 OR]

Getting this chunk buttoned up, but am a little concerned about the travel of the air collar when the diff is rotated forward and backward taking up the slack in the adjuster nut retainer.

Should I be concerned?
Should I be doing something different?

I'm tempted to make a new "L" clamp to keep the adjuster nut aligned but with a bigger shoulder area to keep the air collar restrained from moving once installed.

I made a quick video but not sure how to attach a video.

(update: I made a new keeper and it keeps the air collar from turning)

 

[welndmn]

This has been interesting to me, so keep the details coming.
I've built probably close to 500 diffs but never done an ZIP locker, so this is interesting.

I'm pretty sure it should have come with a new adjuster nut.

 

[.94 OR]

I bought the zip locker, air lines and an ARB pump from a guy that changed out to something else. I'm not sure why I didn't get the side adjuster nut but I know now that Yukon is not selling individual parts for their equipment, but it appears the ARB side nut works like a charm.

I hope I'm not rambling too much on this thread, but trying to keep it current for future users more than anything.

I did get it set in last night finally. I need to plumb some air to it and double check that it actually does lock the axles before I get too much further into the reassembly process.

 

[DEEPWOODS]

My ARB brass air line broke where it is braized in at the collar it is the old style 9” ARB .I am sure it was from rocking back and forth about 3/16” when going from forward to reverse and when letting off the gas it broke in less than a 1000 miles.

 

[.94 OR]

I wouldn't doubt that is what happened.

I think I got mine to stabilize with the wider clamp.

I tried to make a GIF but the file size is too big for including here. You can see the range of rotation between the two photos though.

 

[.94 OR]

Finally got most of the items bolted back in place.

Next issue: I have a small bearing 31 spline conversion axle from Tom's and the passenger side axle is slightly too long and bottoms out in the Zip-Locker.

Any reason not to shorten the axle enough to loosen it up?

 

[.94 OR]

I contacted Tom's and they thought shaving a bit off the axle wouldn't be an issue.

I transferred the depth mark from the original bearing since the bearing doesn't fully seat into the axle housing. This is the red mark on the new bearing. I slid the shaft into the housing and marked the blue line where the bearing was exposed. This told me the minimum length to trim off. I transferred that length to the splined end. I thought my port-a-band work work great, guess what, chromoly axles are hard! I was able to cut the spines around the line so I could at least grind the end down to the mark. Once I reached that point I tried again but felt it needed just a little more for clearance. Looking at the parts blowup, I think I'm still extending past the splines in the side gear so no integrity lost yet.

Once cleaned up and reinstalled, the "clunk" sound was now at the bearing bottoming out in the axle end instead of the shaft in the differential.

Everything else bolted up fine and I pressure tested the locker. Good so far.