Ok, I'm officially confused now. I guess I was already of course, but just couldn't see it for the trees, so to speak.
So you're saying you want to use a factory switch and get rid of the aftermarket one. Ok, I get that.
And you have a factory type socket already pre-wired looks like. Got it.
So why can't you just hook the factory wires that still exist (it sounds like?) to your factory pigtail with factory wires still sticking out of it? Is your harness aftermarket with different colors? It didn't sound like it from your description. If not, then the colors should match perfectly (except for their extensions that the PO crimped on), allowing for an easy re-splice.
Is your harness spliced with non-factory colored wires, other than the two Black and two Yellow ends that used to go to the aftermarket switch? If so, it should be pretty straightforward to trace them back to the factory colors. And it looks as if you still know each of the old wires was which on the old aftermarket switch anyway, so that shouldn't cause any roadblocks.
Looks like the Yellow wire to the BAT terminal of the old switch goes to the Yellow wire on the connector for the new switch
Looks like the Black wire to the ST of the old switch would go to the Red w/blue ST of the new switch.
Looks like the Yellow wire to the IGN of the old switch would go to the Green w/red and Red w/green of the new switch.
So follow the other Black wire (ACC from the old switch) and find out what factory colored wires it's spliced into and let us know. Should be the factory Black w/green wire, but you'll have to verify. If so, it should go to the Black w/green wire on the center stud of the new switch.
If the problem is that there are not the same number of terminals on the two switches, like you were saying in post #6, it's probably because an aftermarket switch likely did not have the facility to work with the Brake Warning light wire. Separate that one from any other things you're trying to connect, and use it with it's own dedicated terminal on the new factory switch.
So, to follow up on what was already gone over:
Yes, your Yellow (from the battery) power feed wire goes to the BAT terminal. Nothing else will go there, except for something that you want to have power all the time. Nothing that I can think of right off hand. And it's already hooked up to the correct terminal in the factory connector, so just leave it where it is, splice it into the Yellow wire in the harness, and you're good there.
Green w/red and Red w/green go to the IGN post. They're already together in your factory connector, so just splice them in to the chassis harness wires with the same color and connect it.
Red w/blue goes to the ST post. Same procedure as above.
Black w/green has it's own ring still, correct? When you push the connector on to the factory type switch, the center post will stick through, and you nut it up to the post. This holds not only the wire, but retains the whole connector.
Pink w/white plugs onto it's own post separate from the main plug.
Is your dilemma what color wires are hooked to the truck right now? Are there more wires spliced together than you think should be? What am I missing?
What does the chassis side of your harness look like?
Seems to me that if you follow the Black and Yellow wires back a bit, you'll find the factory colors down there somewhere. Since your new switch connector already has the factory wires still connected, and you know from your charts what wire does what, and if you find those colors back there somewhere, you're good to go.
So what am I missing? Got a pic of the under-dash wiring we can see? If you don't have long enough wires, or you have too many wires hooked together into one, you may have to cut the existing Black and Yellow wires off and re-splice some different colors in there to keep things a bit cleaner.
Paul