1 Ton tie rod end

[turbotim2]

I have been running the 1 ton TRO for about 3 years or 3,000 miles and the boots on the tie rod ends are falling apart already. I have been trying to find replacement boots but am having trouble finding the right fit. I have looked at Prothane but they don't seem to have anything specifically listed. I don't really want to buy new ends just for the boot. I also checked with the company that I bought the kit from and they don't have them and said check with prothane. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[Yeller]

The ones from prothane will work just fine. These Energy Suspension one will work fine.
Tie rod boot

 

[turbotim2]

The ones from prothane will work just fine. These Energy Suspension one will work fine.
Tie rod boot

The ones in your link appear too small. They list the larger end as 1.375" and my tie rod ends are 2-1/16" where the base of the boot covers the ball joint.

 

[Yeller]

My apologies, I picked the wrong one. I just put these on my 1 ton TRE’s. Stretched out and worked great. This is a drag link but it’s the same TRE

Large boot

 

[turbotim2]

Ok, thanks! I will give them a shot!

 

[jamesroney]

Ok, thanks! I will give them a shot!

There are two types of TRE used in the typical 1 ton application. There is the high misalignment type, and the anti-flop type.

You can tell the difference by the shape of the tie rod end casting where the stud comes out. The one in the picture in post #4 is a high misalignment type, and is kind of rounded near the ball. The anti-flop type is more squared off.

The type of boot is different for the two types. The Tie Rod to knuckle should always have an anti-flop bushing. Google "anti-flop bushing" Ruffstuff, Synergy, and JCRoffroad sells them. The original 3 piece factory one's are really hard to find.

 

[turbotim2]

There are two types of TRE used in the typical 1 ton application. There is the high misalignment type, and the anti-flop type.

You can tell the difference by the shape of the tie rod end casting where the stud comes out. The one in the picture in post #4 is a high misalignment type, and is kind of rounded near the ball. The anti-flop type is more squared off.

The type of boot is different for the two types. The Tie Rod to knuckle should always have an anti-flop bushing. Google "anti-flop bushing" Ruffstuff, Synergy, and JCRoffroad sells them. The original 3 piece factory one's are really hard to find.

If you mean this: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1768.html
I have one.

 

[bigmuddy]

If you mean this: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1768.html
I have one.

Any idea what the advantage is old vs new "cure" bushing?

 

[turbotim2]

No idea! And I am not sure if mine is the old or new but it's about 4 years old.

 

[turbotim2]

I take that back, it looks like the new one is black, old one is white. I have the old one.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure either, but at least they make it easy to tell what you have. If it's black it's the new, if it's white it's the old.
My guess is that since the original was designed to work with ONLY the brand rod end they carried, the new one is designed to perhaps be more compatible with more brands of rod end.

paul

 

[DirtDonk]

The tie-rod "flop" motion is likely also what killed your dust boots earlier than normal. However, I have to say that the usual caveats apply to these parts too. The modern (mostly chinese built) products just don't last. Where an old rubber dust boot might last twenty years before splitting or falling out, the new ones last maybe a year. Or two if you're lucky.
The polyurethane ones from the usual suspects are made in the U.S. but if they are a too-tight fit they will likely fail quicker than they would if they were a better fit.
And if they're tight, the tie-rod-roll (or "flop") is just going to make that happen even sooner.

Since it hasn't been mentioned in this discussion I don't think, I'll bring back up the reason for the extra roll when using the GM-based parts is that these tie-rods were never designed to have a draglink pulling up and pushing down on them. The tapered hole we use for the draglink was originally a mounting point for a steering stabilizer shock. The GM vehicles that used this type of product had a short draglink connected to the driver's side steering knuckle (via a bolted-on steering arm) and the tie-rod simply connected the two knuckles.
The stabilizer hole was simply made this passenger side rod end a convenient swap part for those wanting a custom steering setup for their Broncos.

If you compare the vertical orientation of the lower draglink interface compared to the original Ford orientation with about a 60° rotation from this point, you can see how Ford tried to minimize the roll/flop action.
Probably too why the lower draglink dust seal was a different design and included a metal protective washer/cup/thingy.

Paul

 

[bigmuddy]

Paul you may be right about them trying to fit more styles? When I first bought the "cure" it wouldn't fit my tierod and they sent me a new tire rod which turned out to be for a jeep? Anyway, I ended up taking my stationary belt sander and grinding the lip of the "cure" and installed it. Work great for me. I actually ended up buying the correct part (still the old model) but haven't had the time to throw it on. In the end, my modified "cure" works to keep the tie rod from rolling so if it works don't mess with it....