Changing from a Crawler to Speed Runner - Coyote Install

[ntsqd]

What happens if you move the axle ends to make them parallel?

At 5° I'm not seeing a huge problem, except for it won't cycle freely and that is important. I'd live with it if that is as good as it gets, but if going truly parallel is possible that would be what I'd want. Most ideal is when with the shocks and springs removed the whole thing moves like a Slinky.

 

[rcmbronc]

I probably could move them but I would have to re weld the trailing arms again. It seems to cycle pretty good right now. I did it to help with triangulation but I now get how it could bind a bit. Also going parallel will cause some interference problems with the shocks and springs and the frame. Close as it is already.

 

[ntsqd]

Oh, Am I correct then in realizing that the chassis pivots are square to the chassis and not to the lower links? i.e. angled on the links.That would make a huge difference.

 

[rcmbronc]

Correct. The chassis links are square to the chassis. The front bushing is welded to the lower links offset 5 degrees. Angled on the links.

 

[ntsqd]

That was the source of my confusion since they're not normally built that way, but doing so make sense to me.

 

[rcmbronc]

Finished up most of the rear end. Still need to add bump stops and limit strap. Took it for a quick blast. Very smooth so far. I still need to set the dual rate stops on the shocks. There is a bit of rear roll so I may need a sway bar. Happy to get this far.

 

[nvrstuk]

Looking good and glad its got the ride you're looking for (more tuning I'm sure). Congrats

 

[Montoya]

Looks great! What spring rates are you running front and rear?

I have some super soft springs on mine and I experienced the same. The rear would roll like the backend was on a yoga ball but I have a swaybar back there now. I hope to get it back on the road soon to test how the swaybar helps before I order new springs.

 

[rcmbronc]

The rear is 100/125 springs. That is what Accutune recommended.Not sure yet about that.

Not sure about the front right now. Got them from Filthy motorsports so I need to check. I think 200/225 or 200/250

 

[Montoya]

Ha that's the same I'm running in the rear and I bet our geometry on our 4-link setups are very close (not that there are a whole lot of options with this frame).

I think my problem was from too much weight added with the cage, batteries, air tank, and larger fuel tank. I'm hoping the swaybar fixes things but I bet I'll be ordering new springs. My fronts are 200/250 and they worked well but again I added a swaybar there too so who knows if they'll be ok once I get it back on the road.

I'll be following your build to see how it handles. Some day we'll have to compare notes because I'm building mine to do similar stuff...I bet both will still out rock crawl a Raptor but also be able to keep up in the dunes.

Here are my swaybar setups. Still wrapping things up but you can get an idea of how it will look. The rear is similar to the Duff rear kit but both front and rear on this use the Ruffstuff fab swaybars.

 

[rcmbronc]

Looks good. I have been thinking in my mind already how to mount the rear bar. Will keep up to date.

 

[sprdv1]

Great set up... Looking bad azz

 

[pbwcr]

I wonder how the two rigs will compare
My setup with Fox Res shocks are:
Front 14" 2.0 - 275/400 + keeper
Rear 16" 2.5 - 250/400
I sit at +5.5" static.
My rig built in El Cajon CA by Glen Strightiff, Glen is a Fox dealer and now specializes in shocks for 4x4 vans at his Agile shop.
PaulW

 

[rcmbronc]

I have front 14" Kings 2.5"with reservoirs. Got to check springs.
Rear 14" Fox 2.5" Factory Race Series with reservoirs 100/125

Got to check static again also.
Reart shocks were specd by Accutune off road and the front by Filthy Motorsports.

 

[rcmbronc]

My new big problem is figuring out how to run the exhaust. I have WH shorty headers and ran before into a 2 into 1 muffler and exit just by the rear end. With the 4 link brackets it does not look like there is any room in there for this. Any ideas?

 

[rcmbronc]

Fronts are 200/200

 

[68ford]

Custom fenderwells header outside the frame. So nice not having exhaust taking up room between the frame anymore. Check my pics you can see how they built mine.

 

[Bukin 67]

Great progress, you've come a long way!

I'm running shorty headers with the exhaust going along inside the frame, then 2 into 1 passing under the rear u-joint @ t/c, then over the frame (2"B/L) and out the side. I'm changing to dual because it's a cluster----. That will be much cleaner and better flow.

My spring rates are terrible for crawling, but great for higher speeds on desert terrain.
Front: 350/450, 14"
Rear: 300/400, 16"
2.5 c/o and bi-pass

I have a rear sway bar mounted behind the stock tank position

I never have weighed the Bronco but I'm sure it would come in around 5000. I'm running a 5.0 and 39 gals of fuel mounted in the rear along with the batteries.

 

[Bukin 67]

Just a couple of pics with exhaust exit and droop.

 

[rcmbronc]

Got exhaust on it and took it for a run. It has quite a bit of roll in it. Kind of a hand full on the road. I think a rear sway bar will help so the is next step. I also am worried I am too lightly sprung in the rear. It does ride super smooth, way better than before.

I did a kind of high speed run through the bumps and it feels really awesome there so just need to make it a bit more road friendly.