Changing wheel studs

[Yellow_66]

What is needed to change the 1/2 inch wheel studs to 5/8 inch wheel studs? Is it drilling only and if you were to buy new axle shafts can you request 5/8 inch studs? I have the Explorer rear disc brake set up and 76 Bronco Dana 44 disc brakes up front.

 

[rednck21]

id think its going to be more trouble than its worth. besides, no ones havin problems with the 1/2 studs that are already there

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

Let me ask the dumb q? Why do you want to change to a larger stud? Its not hard to enlarge the holes with the right tools.

 

[Apogee]

If you are breaking 1/2" studs, I think the question should be could you please post up some pictures/videos of you wheeling? The only time I've seen 1/2" studs break, they've either been over-torqued, under torqued, or improperly installed/removed with a sledge hammer. Personally, I've broke a few that weren't torqued down up to spec...good lesson to calibrate your torque wrench regularly.

You could always upgrade to ARP 1/2" studs if you didn't want to leap to 5/8". Either way, the hole in the hub/axle flange will probably need to be resized for the proper interference fit with the knurl diameter. Not something I'd worry about with new parts, but I'm always a little leary of reusing old interference fit holes with only half new parts...the fit is never as tight.

You didn't mention 9/16" or 14mm wheel studs as an option, but that's probably what I'd lean towards if I were to upgrade as there are more OE options than in the 5/8" size range and you won't have near as many issues with the size of the lug nuts and the clearance holes in the wheels. You can spend days on the Dorman website looking at OE wheel stud specs...I think there are about 300 different wheel studs on there.
http://www.dormanproducts.com

 

[Yellow_66]

I had found some bead lock wheels that were drilled out to 5/8. Just trying to make a determination if it was worth buying the wheels and changing studs to make them fit. I haven't broke any before.

 

[Apogee]

I had found some bead lock wheels that were drilled out to 5/8. Just trying to make a determination if it was worth buying the wheels and changing studs to make them fit. I haven't broke any before.

You've seen them in person, not me, but if they have been drilled out, do they still have the tapered seat for the lugnuts? A 5/8" lug nut is huge and typically uses about a 3/4" clearance hole (or larger) with a 60 degree chamfer for the lug nut.

In my experience, a typical clearance hole for a 1/2" or M12 stud is typically between .610"-.680" depending on the wheel center thickness and manufacturer.

 

[scottmcwms]

Really I can't see needing much more than a drill press and a good set of reamers. The drill press you will have to set up for a precision drill. You better make sure the drill bit is exactly in the middle of the hole. Then ream the hole out to the proper interference fit. I don't know what that is though.

I would recommend to get the right wheels. If you break an axleshaft on the trail then you are screwed unless you carry a spare. Nobody else's spare will match your wheels.

 

[racebronco]

There are a bunch of people out in the california desert that convert there axles/wheels to 5/8" for desert racing, U might want to try dezertrangers.com or race-dezert.com
hope this helps..