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Doghows's explorer swap and 4R70W and PS ITS A WRAP

doghows72

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Jan 5, 2005
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So I started my swap today which includes the engine, transmission, and P/S.
I've read everything I can find planned this for a year, gathered all my junk so here we go.
Pretty straight forward so far but two quick questions.
One: the lower puller on the passenger side of the engine is VERY close to the cross member. Did any of you have to notch the cross member or will it clear ok once I get the transmission and stuff set in place?
Two: I'm doing the 4x4x2 box and I only get one hole to line up, so do I line one up and drill two more? Do I need to do something that I missed?
Any way I'll keep at it for the next week or two but I'll update as quick as I can and I'm sure I'll have a few more questions issues. Thanks!
 
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broncodriver99

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Jan 27, 2008
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Glen Allen, VA
One: the lower puller on the passenger side of the engine is VERY close to the cross member. Did any of you have to notch the cross member or will it clear ok once I get the transmission and stuff set in place?
Two: I'm doing the 4x4x2 box and I only get one hole to line up, so do I line one up and drill two more? Do I need to do something that I missed?

1. I have seen at least one build where the cross member was notched. You could also shim the pass side engine mount to buy you a little more room.

2. West Coast Broncos makes an adapter plate that bots to the frame and then you bolt the 4x4x2 box to it. No drilling required. I think a couple other vendors carry them as well.
 

904Bronco

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Use the smaller Napa pulley and shorter belt...

But 1st, put the motor and trans in the Bronco and check clearance. I have done two of these Explorer installs and had no clearance issues. Engine will lean back if using factory crossmember that has the AA adapter modifications...

"Here's another shot of the belt and a shot of the smaller idler pulley
(Napa #36079 - 60mm) that BroncoBernie discovered. Cleared the frame great with Napa motor mounts."
 

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sykanr0ng

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Aug 11, 2014
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Another way to get more clearance for the pulley is the Extreme motor mounts.
They raise the engine so if your clearance under the hood is close that may be a problem.
3/8 to 3/4 inch seems to be the average.
 
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doghows72

doghows72

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Awesome tips guys. I think I'll get the transmission in because I am using the modified stock cross member so maybe I'll have the clearance I need. If not we have shims and a smaller pulley for back up. I really didn't want to cut up my factory cross member.
JSmall I sent you a pm and thank you for the offer I'll be in touch.
Meanwhile it's back to the shop and see what we can get done today.

I was just going through all my saved threads and regarding the 4R70W swap I saw an issue a few years back about a seal between the adapter and the T-case. The thread was a few years back and my adaptor is only 6 months old but I don't see any reference on wether this has been resolved? I'm using an AWD case and the ZF kit for install.
 
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fummins97

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Richmond, Mi
I was just going through all my saved threads and regarding the 4R70W swap I saw an issue a few years back about a seal between the adapter and the T-case. The thread was a few years back and my adaptor is only 6 months old but I don't see any reference on wether this has been resolved? I'm using an AWD case and the ZF kit for install.

I used the same trans and zf kit, yes you will need that seal. There is a good thread about the installation and the part number. Search my threads and it's all in there about a year ago. If not, the trans will just fill the tcase and blow out everything.

Regarding your lower pulley, I just angled my driveline about 4* and it gave me about 1 1/2" clearance to the crossmember. Had multiple people say that acceptable angle is 2-5* on the engine.
 
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doghows72

doghows72

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Ok answered my own question. Mine had the seal with it. So after a lot of head scratching a couple phone calls and several dry runs, I think I figured out this AA mess.
Someone really needs to write some installation instructions for these guys. I am very grateful for all the previous write ups or I'd still be trying to piece this together.
Any way got it all assembled and ready to attach to the engine. I'm worn out so that will have to wait , but here it is in all its glory.
 
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doghows72

doghows72

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And one more view from the other side. If anyone sees anything outta place let me know but she is all tight and everything still turns so I think we're good.
 
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Nickm1024cobra

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Jun 15, 2014
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Chicago Burbs
My front pulley was a little too close for comfort when I was mocking it up. 1/4" clearance. Engine torque...might hit. I bought longer bolts for the engine mounts and I believe 1/2" spacers from McMaster Carr. I had plenty of hood clearance. By the time I got my trans crossmember in place rather than just mocked up, the pulley might have cleared.


 

surfer-b

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If you have a body lift you should be ok, if not you will have to mod the coil pack bracket to lower them, the oil fill tube will have to be shortened, if the stock throttle body is used it will have to be rotated so that the IAC is on the bottom. As for the frame some have gotten away with not having to notch it, however I always modded the frames when I have done the swaps, the idler pulley mount is really close to this brace that the arrow is pointing to in this pic, you may not have to do anything but just look at it close before you go too far.
 

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fummins97

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Didn't see anything about how your shifting the t-case, are you doing twin sticks or stock style? I'm using the t-shft J-Fab twin shifters and just in mock-up, I already don't like how loose they feel. Would like to know how a stock shifter does with the added length of the trans and adapters.
 

Casey4wd

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Apr 30, 2015
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Austin, Texas
Didn't see anything about how your shifting the t-case, are you doing twin sticks or stock style? I'm using the t-shft J-Fab twin shifters and just in mock-up, I already don't like how loose they feel. Would like to know how a stock shifter does with the added length of the trans and adapters.

I am also very disappointed with the J-Fab twin sticks for the ZF adaptor. They are extremely loose. I would send them back, but I had to modify them to even get it to fit. I plan to re-work mine and make a custom bracket when I do the frame-off.
 
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doghows72

doghows72

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I'm going for the stock T-case shifter. Hopefully I won't have to hack the floor too bad but I'll keep you posted. It'll be slow going during the week. It's tough to do a ten hour day at the shop and come home to do three more.
Thanks for all the help so far.
 

904Bronco

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Didn't see anything about how your shifting the t-case, are you doing twin sticks or stock style? I'm using the t-shft J-Fab twin shifters and just in mock-up, I already don't like how loose they feel. Would like to know how a stock shifter does with the added length of the trans and adapters.

I think it works great, just have to trade out the factory cover for a WH single boot. (1" body lift) Then move the hole back about 1.5 inchs, I made a alum plate to cover it. I had to cut out the back two mounting points for the factory plastic cover, but replaced them with nutzerts.
 

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doghows72

doghows72

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Well I decided to go ahead and notch my cross member. I only have a one inch body lift so raising the engine didn't seem like a good option for me.
So I pulled the engine back out after marking the offending area. Made my notch, cut some plate steel fit it all up and it came out real nice.
Tonight I'll weld it all in place and paint it back up and maybe stuff the engine back in.
Then hopefully I can lift the trans/Tcase combo into place and finish my cross member mods.
 
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doghows72

doghows72

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Ok I'm tire of. Y iPad iPhone I anything. No matter what I can only post one picture per reply.
Anyway here it is with plates in place ready to weld.
 
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Nickm1024cobra

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I am also very disappointed with the J-Fab twin sticks for the ZF adaptor. They are extremely loose. I would send them back, but I had to modify them to even get it to fit. I plan to re-work mine and make a custom bracket when I do the frame-off.

Ive gone back and forth with j fab on these twin sticks. they get loose after one shift. I verified they are setup correctly, don't like the design. Not sure what my options are.
 
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