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Door help!?!?!?

Ben77

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Messages
11
I know there a bunch of threads on this and read a lot of them but still can’t find the most efficient way to fix this door. Brand new from Dennis carpenter, old door fit pretty well even the curvature of the new quarter wasn’t bad on old door. But this new one I can’t get lined up at the back bottom. Tried so many combinations, shims, elongated hinge holes, etc I’m losing it. Not overaly concerned about gaps just want it flush. Passenger went on with very little effort and fits well.

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,733
Are you doing all this test fitting, with the weatherstrip installed? Or without it?
 

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
444
Important to hear answer to DD question above. It also looks like your lower fender is pulled out away from the rocker. The lower fender where it creates the seam with front of rocker should be flush. If your door matches a pulled out fender and the rear of door is also out at quarter, easy fix. Get the fender pushed in to be flush with rocker seam which will require lower door hinge to be moved in so door edge is flush with fender. That will also pull in lower portion of door in the back. Door is also slightly low in back. It needs to come up a bit.
 
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Ben77

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Messages
11
I pulled the weather stripping and had just installed the striker at this point. I got it a little better after this pic but the front of the door wants to suck in over the rocker the closer I try and get the back . Yeah the front quarter is loose currently it will suck in a little I only have it bolted on the top bolt. The rocker is original metal except I replaced the bottom 10 inches of the hinge pillar. Are the doors recessed inside a little and over the rocker from the factory? My originals were pretty flush all the way around but the bottoms and hinge side were pretty rotted. The only major difference is the hinges are new from Tom’s. The passenger side the originals were good. I had to notch the door for things to fully collapse.

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Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
444
You replaced the bottom 10 inches of the hinge pillar? Since you did not replace the entire pillar, bottom hinge and top hinge may be off a touch. It does not take much (1/32” angle difference) would be 1/4” at rear of door. Have you tried shiming individual bolts at pillar? Single shim moves door back. Using washers on individual bolts changes angles. Might try that.
 
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Ben77

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Messages
11
You replaced the bottom 10 inches of the hinge pillar? Since you did not replace the entire pillar, bottom hinge and top hinge may be off a touch. It does not take much (1/32” angle difference) would be 1/4” at rear of door. Have you tried shiming individual bolts at pillar? Single shim moves door back. Using washers on individual bolts changes angles. Might try that.

Yeah I think that’s next on my list. Currently have about 1/8 total shim on bottom hinge due to my repair being slightly inset to your point. With the kit the vendors sell. Do you happen to know on the 2 bolt outboard vs 1 bolt inboard on the hinge which single washer shim moves the door what direction? The top overall line I adjusted and looks good and also fits the top/windshield angles pretty well. It’s just the lower door front is inset and the back is poking out.

Thanks again for any and all replies.


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