f150 dana hp 44

[smittys800]

I am stripping my '79 f150 dana down to EB width, but have searched high and low, and can't find an actual figure. I have found 6" to 6.5". I only have one shot at this and needs to right. I am NOT going sleeve the tube.
Hope one of you pros can steer me right.
Smitty

 

[Hozr]

5.97"

http://d44tech.com/Narrowing_HP_D44.html

 

[EB70]

Wasn't there a way of removing the knuckle / radius arm assembly and just cutting the housing? It seems like there was, but it has been awhile. I know removing tube from any casting is not fun.

I have narrowed housings the way that is mentioned in the article. It does work, and it is not too hard really.

I'll do some research.

 

[Waverous]

I narrowed down a full width dana 44 with cast wedges. I tried to remove knuckle by cutting out off the weld around the cast portion of the knuckle, heating it, using a porta-power, and a BFH without any luck. After some additional measuring, I found only a 1.5" of the tube was actually inside the cast portion, meaning if I cut the knuckle off at the end of the casting, I still had tube left to work with on the actual housing. I cut off the knuckle, used a "saws-all" to the portion of the tube remaining in the knuckle in half, then I used an air hammer to drive both pieces out of the knuckle. I cleaned up both pieces, slid them together, checked caster angles, and fanny's your aunt!

 

[Waverous]

I narrowed down a full width dana 44 with cast wedges. I tried to remove knuckle by cutting out off the weld around the cast portion of the knuckle and the tube housing, heating it, using a porta-power, and a BFH without any luck. After some additional measuring, I found only a 1.5" of the tube was actually inside the cast portion, meaning if I cut the knuckle off at the end of the casting, I still had tube left to work with on the actual housing. I cut off the knuckle, used a "saws-all" to the portion of the tube remaining in the knuckle in half, then I used an air hammer to drive both pieces out of the knuckle. I cleaned up both pieces, slid them together, checked caster angles, and fanny's your aunt!

 

[smittys800]

hozr,
That's the one, many thanks!!!!

 

[EB70]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.shtml

This is the way that I was thinking of.

 

[smittys800]

That's same article I found, just did not see an accurate measurement

 

[Wyflyer]

I narrowed down a full width dana 44 with cast wedges. I tried to remove knuckle by cutting out off the weld around the cast portion of the knuckle, heating it, using a porta-power, and a BFH without any luck. After some additional measuring, I found only a 1.5" of the tube was actually inside the cast portion, meaning if I cut the knuckle off at the end of the casting, I still had tube left to work with on the actual housing. I cut off the knuckle, used a "saws-all" to the portion of the tube remaining in the knuckle in half, then I used an air hammer to drive both pieces out of the knuckle. I cleaned up both pieces, slid them together, checked caster angles, and fanny's your aunt!

Did you have to narrow the other end also? And did you have to taper the driver side end to insert it back into the cast knuckle?

 

[Waverous]

Did you have to narrow the other end also? And did you have to taper the driver side end to insert it back into the cast knuckle?

Nope and nope! It is really just that easy. Just a note though - all work is done on the passenger side - not the driver's side

 

[garberz]

I shortened both sides. I needed to adjust the pinion angle, rotated it up 2*. To get the caster I need I need to run 7* bushings with Duff long arms. While the HP 44 is much less picky about bind at the pinion shaft, I decided to make it correct. Also I can use my short side EB chromo axle (it's .6" shorter), instead of using the F-150 axle. The digital protractor make things easy to get everything lined up again. I did the short side first, I ground a bevel on the end of the tube, heated up the casting and drove it back on with a 20# sledge. Welded it up with the pinion angle set, then cut the long side and matched it up with the other. This is still on the bench, as I'm right in the middle of this project.

Mark

 

[ford man]

I shortened both sides. I needed to adjust the pinion angle, rotated it up 2*. To get the caster I need I need to run 7* bushings with Duff long arms. While the HP 44 is much less picky about bind at the pinion shaft, I decided to make it correct. Also I can use my short side EB chromo axle (it's .6" shorter), instead of using the F-150 axle. The digital protractor make things easy to get everything lined up again. I did the short side first, I ground a bevel on the end of the tube, heated up the casting and drove it back on with a 20# sledge. Welded it up with the pinion angle set, then cut the long side and matched it up with the other. This is still on the bench, as I'm right in the middle of this project.

Mark

How did you remove the tube from the casting? Did you cut it like others have mentioned at the casting then get the tube out after you cut ?I have been wanting to do this for some time and it looks easy I would just put it back like stock and do degree bushings like the lift I currently have on the bronco I just need the gain of the high pinion.

 

[garberz]

I ground down the welds, heated up the casting, the whaled on it with the big sledge. It took quite a bit to remove it, but the second one was easier. I wanted to leave the tube intact, so I could get an accurate measurement on where to cut.

Mark

 

[Bluebolt]

Good info for when I narrow mine!

 

[Wyflyer]

Any idea how this Dana 44 HP will work with a 2 1/2" lift with 4R70W? Any issues with the driveline hitting the transmission or engine pan?

 

[sykanr0ng]

Any idea how this Dana 44 HP will work with a 2 1/2" lift with 4R70W? Any issues with the driveline hitting the transmission or engine pan?

Most find that with a 3 1/2 inch lift it hits the oil pan, from my research on it.

Better plan on 4 1/2 inch or more.

 

[Amac70]

Most find that with a 3 1/2 inch lift it hits the oil pan, from my research on it.

Better plan on 4 1/2 inch or more.

ive got 3.5 running a custom 2" front driveshaft to clear pan.

 

[Wyflyer]

ive got 3.5 running a custom 2" front driveshaft to clear pan.

Thanks, and I apologize in advance for more questions but it's valuable info to me.
Do you think it would work with a 2.5"?
Is your custom shaft a skinny shaft?
Is your axle narrowed?

My quick mental math figures the pinion would move about 1.5" closer to the center on a narrowed axle versus a full width axle.

 

[Amac70]

my custom shaft is 2" diameter compared to 2.5 of a stock one. It is still close but just clears the linkage brackets. my axles are not narrowed. Im not sure if it would clear with a 2.5 lift or a narrowed axle im sure someone out there is running that somehow though.

 

[Bronco73]

I have an old post on here some where with all the info and pictures of how I narrowed two of them. I'm on my phone right now or I would dig up the post.