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Especially since it looks to be off the engine, the threaded plug would be a good option.
Once it’s installed on the engine you would normally try to avoid drilling and tapping so as not to get shavings inside the engine. In that case the well plug/freeze plug or some kind of rubber insert would be the way to go.
I've got probably kind of a dumb question, but if one used the timing cover hole for a dipstick like my 289 in my Mustang, would oil register on the dipstick at full level?
I've already fixed my oil pan in my bronco engine, it's just a question
dne'
I've got probably kind of a dumb question, but if one used the timing cover hole for a dipstick like my 289 in my Mustang, would oil register on the dipstick at full level?
I've already fixed my oil pan in my bronco engine, it's just a question
dne'
The problem is that the pickup tube is in the back of the pan. Any oil that does collect in the front (assuming that some does) will always be there, even if the rear of the pan is empty and you aren't pumping oil anymore. This is assuming that some oil collects in the front of the pan, and on a level surface.
I've got probably kind of a dumb question, but if one used the timing cover hole for a dipstick like my 289 in my Mustang, would oil register on the dipstick at full level?
I've already fixed my oil pan in my bronco engine, it's just a question
dne'
My first Bronco had a used engine in it. Funny thing, it had 2 dipsticks. One read a little different than the other, but they were consistent.
When the engine is off, it isn't just the sump holding the oil, it is the whole pan. And a Bronco pan has a channel connecting the front and rear sumps (fox body mustang pans have 2 different sumps). So the oil level is the same everywhere in the pan. The engineers figure where that level should be. And it may not be the same for all pans/chassis even for the same engine. You want it high enough that you won't suck the pan dry in severe conditions, but low enough that the crank isn't beating through the oil either. This isn't a splash lube bottom end. Now have enough of a window that the engine can use some oil, but still not run the pan dry. And it needs to clear the chassis parts, and in cars not bottom out as well. Don't want too much oil capacity, that costs money to fill an engine with oil. But enough you don't need to change it too often as well. Enough to stabalize oil temps and not overheat it, but not too much that it is always cold and rarely gets to operating temperature. There is a lot that goes into setting up a factory oil pan. The good part is that engineering was done a long time ago and has proven to work really good.