Replacing the rear main seal

[freeheelbillie]

As some of you may know I have been at war with leaks on my 1970 EB...and gettng close to winning I might add.

Turns out its time to replace the Rear Main Seal needless to say I am not looking forward to it with no lift, or garage for that matter.

I am looking for pointers and tricks to make things go a smoothly as possible. I plan on taking a look at the clutch while I have everything out, anyone hear anythig about Luks Clutches?

Thanks guys...looking forward to seeing you Colorado EB guys this Saturday!

Billie

 

[Justafordguy]

If it still has the factory 302 you can change the rear main without removing the engine. You can't check the clutch without removing the engine or tranny/t-case.

 

[backpain]

let the experienced guys tell you the route to the least amount of R&R work, but I will at least throw in that an engine lift from Harbor Freight (or a hoist if you have ceiling structure that can carry the weight) is inexpensive enough to seriously consider.

You're probably not going to pull the engine all the way out, just disconnect the mounts and get it up a bit, so you don't need high$$ stuff. From the top will be so much better than dealing with a jack from underneath.

Under $200 for sure. Maybe under $100. C.List can probably find you one for $50.

edit: Leave it to me to not remember where the x-member is and how much pan clearance you have on an EB . . .

*some day later, you can use it to pull out fence posts and other fun stuff

 

[airbur]

This was actually one of the very first projects I did after I bought my Bronco last year. Let me tell you, I had never really worked on an engine before but this wasn't that bad. I did have the front axle removed which made it easier, but still...you don't have to move the engine at all...just drop the oil pan and pickup tube, loosen the crank bolts, and remove the bolts at the rear....push the seal out. Then reassemble in reverse. I would highly suggest using the Ford manual for the process as it really helped out.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126913&page=3

 

[freeheelbillie]

If it still has the factory 302 you can change the rear main without removing the engine. You can't check the clutch without removing the engine or tranny/t-case.

I planned on dropping the tranny/t-case in one section, right ??? Kinda sounds like I might be able to just remove the oil pan to get at it though...it will be a one piece right?

 

[MattW]

As far as Luk clutches, I finally got around to installing mine a few weeks ago. Wow, world of difference. Installation is very simple, be sure to replace the flywheel or have it resurfaced while you're in there too.

Dropping the tranny and tcase as one can be done. I did it by myself, but it's freaking heavy. Putting them back in as one is when things get really interesting. Together they add up to some serious weight and the balance point is awkward. After fighting it for a weekend with a tranny jack and blocks of wood I finally used a come-a-long suspended from my roll cage and lifted it that way, piece of cake. Had to put a jack under the oil pan to stab the tranny in, but once it was lined up it went right in.

 

[airbur]

I planned on dropping the tranny/t-case in one section, right ??? Kinda sounds like I might be able to just remove the oil pan to get at it though...it will be a one piece right?

It's a 2 piece...hence why you don't need to drop anything.

 

[airbur]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...elpro_5183006-P_105_R|GRPENGPAMS_964298249___

 

[freeheelbillie]

It's a 2 piece...hence why you don't need to drop anything.

OPPS I just saw that too hahaha its been a loooooong day %)

 

[Justafordguy]

You can take the tranny/t-case out to check the clutch but you still have to remove the oil pan to change the rear main if you have the original 302/289. If you have a newer 302 it will have a one piece seal and you have to pull the engine to change it.