Low budget head for my 347 stroker

[bmc69]

My Easter egg had a baby in it: 1526 MTN, 8# 1oz, 21"


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LOL! Congratulations!

 

[craigaria]

My friends high compression motor is undrivable on pump gas. It sits in his garage since race gas is so pricey. Lower your compression and you will be better off...

And congrats to the addition to the family!

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

I am getting ready to take off the harmonic balancer to get at the timing chain cover, andI am starting to have second thoughts. Is there any other way to tell if my cam is advanced 5* to far without seeing the end of the cam?


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[snipi]

are you still running the petronix system? if you are check to make sure that the piece that spins on the distributor and the piece that stands still to read the spinning piece are level if not they might not be contacting right. i had this happen to me recently on a much more stock motor. check the distributor cap and see it there are burn marks next to the contacts inside.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

All is new and been replaced at three times in the last year.

Thanks,



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[Rkilpatrickii]

Well I have one of the heads off and I am really struggling here: my heads are 1968, 289, C8OE-D. The valves are 1.67,1.45 and the combustion chamber is 63cc. I am supposed to go pick a set of GT40 heads (1.85/1.45 & 65cc) tomorrow. My question to u, "r they really going to make that big of deference?

Well I haven't gotten the timing cover off yet, but when I do I hope I find the root of my problem.


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[bmc69]

Whoa!..hold on. I - and probably others certainly - assumed you were running the 54cc 289 heads. So no..you are not going to be changing much with the GT40s. And that raises another question: with 63cc chambers, what makes you think the compression is as high as you stated earlier? Flat-tops with only valve reliefs and 63cc heads are maybe..10:1? I would have to get more details on deck height to be sure, but...

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

Ya, I assumed the same thing until I pulled one of them off last night...

So....… anyone know what plugs I should get for the GT40 heads?

Thanks


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[Rkilpatrickii]

I got the autolite double platinum. Now let's go home and see what kind of mess I can make.


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[Rkilpatrickii]

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[Rkilpatrickii]

As you can see in the paper work. The mechanic that installed the cam circled the instructions to advance the cam.

It seems very simple now all I have to do is take the gear off of the end of the crank, bump the crank just a hair clockwise, and change it to the factory settings.


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[Rkilpatrickii]

So, I have fixed the cam timing.

Now I am lapping the valves in the GT40 heads. I am going to reuse the Lunati springs and valve-guide-seals off of my old heads. All that stuff is still new.


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[bmc69]

So, I have fixed the cam timing.

]

umm..how do you know? You still don't actually know what the true cam timing is until you check one of the cam timing specs directly. In other words, how many degrees ATDC is your specific setup creating .050" lift at the tappet...or .002" or whatever your cam card says the lift timing is to be checked at.

FWIW..I almost always end up with cam installations that are 4 degrees advanced over the specs on the card if its an engine I'm building for a 'truck' and lower RPM use. Advancing the cam moves the peak torque lower in the RPM range a couple hundred or so..typically...but at the expense of the very top end power.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

I don't know,

I have been all over the Internet try to figure this out. And I found several good instructions on how to check the the cam advance. But I still haven't figured our how to read a cam spec card. And the tools to do this are going to add another $130.00 to do this job.

You told me the cam had 5* built in and the timing chain set was to give it 4* of advance. That's a total 9* of advance. So I did what I thought I was supposed to do, I took out the 4* of advance.

If you are saying this has to be done, I can go to town and by the tools, I don't have the heads back on yet so now would be the time. While I am waiting for your reply, I will run over to the Auto Craft Center here on post and see if I can barrow there's.


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[bmc69]

You told me the cam had 5* built in url]

That was not me that posted that.

Looking at your cam card, you simply need to set up a feeler guage or even eyeball the rise of the lifter on the intake valve that starts to lift when the timing on the balancer is at top dead center. I don't recall off the top of my head which cyclinder that will be but it will be obvious.

What you are looking for is "at what timing does that intake lifter barely start to lift? The spec on your cam is that the lifter should be up 0.050" (just under a 1/16 of an inch) at 4 degrees Before Top Dead Center on the timing marks.

Were it my engine, I would set that cam to at least 6 degrees BTDC.

In any event, as you can see from above description, you need no special tools..though we are assuming here that your timing marks are accurate.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

Thank u,

As near as I can tell, the cam advance is good.

New problem:
Either I need longer push rods or I need to drill, tap, and buy new studs for the GT40 heads (the rocker-arms I have on the 289 heads are new and they look like they would work just fine.)

The push-rods I have are about 6.750" and I think the ones I need are 6.906". I can't really spend any more money tell next payday. And if I have to wait tell the end of the month I will just the studs installed. I would try to find some at the junk yard, but I don't know what kind of vehicle to find them on.

Thanks for all the help


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[Rkilpatrickii]

The push-rods are what I want to find in the junkyard not the studs.


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[NYLES]

See if you can borrow a rod checker then youll know exactly what lenght you need. Ive been down the mixed year/machined heads, block, rocker, stud road before..will be a well spent 30$ to know and get the right rods the first time.

 

[NYLES]

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH&Store_Code=CC

SEARCH ROD CHECKER

cheaper than I thought!

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

Ok, today I finally got the new studs and poly-nuts on order. So that bring the price on this fix to about $580 now. Which in retrospect is pretty disappointing. I think I have thrown about $1800 at this motor since it was rebuilt last year (msd, card stuff, o2 sensor, electronic ignition, new alternator for 95 mustang, more msd stuff, and more carb stuff). I hope this girl decides she finally got what wanted. Because not happy by Monday of next week she's going to the junk yard and I'm going back to riding the bike.

I will be happy when she is happy, but I will also be be pissed if it turn out it was the cam all along.