1.5" lift block with taper

[infinite monkey]

Hi,
I'm trying to find a 1.5" lift block with an 8 or 9* taper. Not having any luck. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Pa PITT]

.. Well if we are on the same page.. I'll say not many of these guys like the lift blocks.. But I have a set of 2 inch in the back of my 4BT no problem with them. But if I needed them I'd just ask a machine shop to cut an angle on them.
.. Wedge shims I've seen were not that thick.

 

[infinite monkey]

I have not come across too many positive opinions on blocks. But this is the route I'm going for now. Custom shims maybe my only option for this setup. I'll keep looking.
I'm not planning on any real 4 wheelin' in the near future, but if that changes, I'll put in a suspension lift.
Thanks

 

[broncnaz]

Short lift blocks are fine start getting up in the 4in or taller range ad you can have issues.
Your probably going to have to get some thing custom made as few lift blocks will have more than 6degree taper and most likely the shorter the block the less the taper. If you can find a good 2in lift block you may be able to have a machine shop taper it and you would probably end up with about 1.5in of lift.
80's up broncos used a tapered block in the rear might be about 7 degrees but needs to be trimmed down as its wider than EB springs and I think you would only gain about 1in of lift. I have a set that Ive been thinking about installing on my 73 to level it out just havent done it yet as I think it has a bit more taper than I need but I need to install and see if it works out or not.

 

[infinite monkey]

Looks like 4crawler.com should be able to make what I'm looking for. If their price is approaching $100 then I'll go the junk yard route.

link:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml

 

[infinite monkey]

I emailed the guy at 4crawler and got an estimate. (There was no PH# listed for them).

Looks like it's going to be $85.00 for the blocks and $15.00 for shipping. That's way too much for me.

I can probably get the lift blocks from the 80's Bronco for free and trim it.

Anyone know what the years span maybe for the block with the 6-7* taper. And how wide the spring is from the later Bronco.

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

The later blocks will probably be approximately 3" wide. That's what the springs were.
Not sure what model to pick, because there were so many variations depending on options. Most of the variations were in pickups of course, so Broncos might be more consistent.

Any Ford pickup from '66 on should at least be looked at. The older trucks had narrower springs anyway, so you never know what you might find. The mid-nineties Broncos seemed to have a pretty decent taper on their blocks.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Just thought of something. You're looking for a specific taper, so I'm guessing you've been measuring things up already? If so did you take into account the difference in rotational positions between the block location (along the centerline of the axle tube) and the pinion (well out in front of that)? Or was your measurement taken strictly at the pinion?

In other words, to get 9° of pinion rise, you might only need 5 or 6 degrees at the spring perch.

Paul

 

[infinite monkey]

Just thought of something. You're looking for a specific taper, so I'm guessing you've been measuring things up already? If so did you take into account the difference in rotational positions between the block location (along the centerline of the axle tube) and the pinion (well out in front of that)? Or was your measurement taken strictly at the pinion?

In other words, to get 9° of pinion rise, you might only need 5 or 6 degrees at the spring perch.

Paul

I measured the pinion angle (10*), at the yolk. This in on stock springs, which are 40 years old and the drive shaft angle at the bottom of the shaft (20*). This gave me a difference of 10*.

The reason for the discrepancy with stock suspension is I put in a whole new drive train and put it higher than stock.

So what you are saying is that I should measure pinion angle at the center line of axel? If so, how and from where?

Thanks.

 

[broncnaz]

I can probably get the lift blocks from the 80's Bronco for free and trim it.

Anyone know what the years span maybe for the block with the 6-7* taper. And how wide the spring is from the later Bronco.

Thanks

1980 on up to 95 they are all the same. But like I said they may have to much angle in them once installed. I'll have to measure mine to be sure on the angle but I have a 2.5in lift already and the blocks would probably give me to much angle. Thats why I havent installed them yet.

You may be better off buying a set of blocks and having them machined with the angle you want although unless you can do the machining or can get it done for free its probably going to cost you close to what you were qouted already. WH sells some bolck kits with new ubolts. So that might work out better overall.

 

[DirtDonk]

I measured the pinion angle (10*), at the yolk. This in on stock springs, which are 40 years old and the drive shaft angle at the bottom of the shaft (20*). This gave me a difference of 10*.

Sounds reasonable. Just sagging springs doesn't really make much change there, so most of that must be from the changes you made. Different axle assembly from a different truck it sounds like?
And it sounds like you're aiming for a degree or two down from center, so that's good too.

The reason for the discrepancy with stock suspension is I put in a whole new drive train and put it higher than stock.

What did you put in there? Just out of curiosity. And what do you mean by higher than stock? New springs? Or larger axle tubes?
Did you go and put in a GM 14-bolt rear end? (he says, in his best conspiratorial voice!)

So what you are saying is that I should measure pinion angle at the center line of axel? If so, how and from where?

No idea. I'm just saying that, for a given number of degrees pivot at the axle, even though the degree change at the pinion is the same, it's traveling in a wider arc, so it's change in relation to the driveshaft centerline is greater out at the pinion than in more towards the axle centerline.
There has been a discussion on this before, and I think the geometry gurus posted up a formula to get it all correct. But I tend not to remember that kind of stuff once I've read it.
Not even sure I worded any of that right.

Paul

 

[infinite monkey]

1980 on up to 95 they are all the same. But like I said they may have to much angle in them once installed. I'll have to measure mine to be sure on the angle but I have a 2.5in lift already and the blocks would probably give me to much angle. Thats why I havent installed them yet.

You may be better off buying a set of blocks and having them machined with the angle you want although unless you can do the machining or can get it done for free its probably going to cost you close to what you were qouted already. WH sells some bolck kits with new ubolts. So that might work out better overall.

Right now I have a set of used, 1978 F150 springs in the front and the truck is sitting level, I checked it with a level on a level surface. Down the road, I'll buy a set of new, stock height springs for the rear and put them in and see what difference that makes. I want it to sit just a little higher in the back.I'll still need to correct for caster, so I will for now go with the '80-'95 blocks. The "machining" will probably come from an angle grinder to narrow the sides. I'm assuming this is what will need to be done to fit the EB springs?

Thanks.

 

[infinite monkey]

"What did you put in there? Just out of curiosity. And what do you mean by higher than stock? New springs? Or larger axle tubes?
Did you go and put in a GM 14-bolt rear end? (he says, in his best conspiratorial voice!) "

You had to ask???

It's worst than a GM 14 bolt.

It's a '92 5.7L TBI engine to a 700R4 to a Ford NP-205. (Dana 44 and 9", stock early bronco)

So now someone will say why? Well because I had the entire drive train sitting in my garage destined to go in a Jeep, the Jeep deal fell through, so it found a home in the Bronco.

The drive train was put in when I had a 5.5" lift in there, so I tucked it all as high as I could. There is also a 2" body lift. The idea was to have a total beater, mudder, but I don't care about that any more and would rather have a nice DD, so it's back to stock height with 33's. l got it 12 years ago and have yet to drive it on the road. I just got it drivable in the driveway. I need to tow it and get an alignment and an exhaust put in so I can go for a cruise. FINALLY.

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds reasonable. ;D

The F150 springs would normally have lifted a stock EB about 1.5" or so. With variations for different springs and vehicle weights.
You can verify where you're sitting now, since you still have the stock axles, by measuring from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail.
Front is 7" stock. Rear is 6" stock. Approximately of course, but close enough for government work.

That way you'll know what to expect with rear springs.
Don't know about all the others, but our rear leaf springs (even stock height ones) tend to sit high at first, unless you have a particularly heavy Bronco.

Paul

 

[infinite monkey]

Sounds reasonable. ;D

The F150 springs would normally have lifted a stock EB about 1.5" or so. With variations for different springs and vehicle weights.
You can verify where you're sitting now, since you still have the stock axles, by measuring from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail.
Front is 7" stock. Rear is 6" stock. Approximately of course, but close enough for government work.

That way you'll know what to expect with rear springs.
Don't know about all the others, but our rear leaf springs (even stock height ones) tend to sit high at first, unless you have a particularly heavy Bronco.

Paul

That is great information. I figured the new springs would sit high at first and than sag a little. I'll put them in, wait for the sag and fine tune with a block, maybe a cut and turn for angle. it's at about 9" front and 8" rear. Kind of strange that the rear is higher that stock, with stock, old springs? Right now, I just want to drive the damn thing.;D

Thanks again.

 

[broncnaz]

Ok here's my measurements off the 80's up bronco blocks I have. The only part thats been machined is the width. Taper angle measures 7degrees. Height at small end is 3/4" height at thick end is 1 1/4" Width is about 2 1/4" didnt want to go any skinnier as the side rails on the bottom are getting pretty thin. Couldnt find my unmachined set. So no pics of them. Also keep in mind I havent even tried to install these yet so actual fitment is unknown.

 

[DirtDonk]

At 2 1/4" wide, they sound like they'll be perfect for filing a couple of half-round notches in each side for the u-bolts to set into. That's what I did to my 1" blocks.
Worked out perfect I'd say.

In your case, you obviously still have to worry about filing through into the cavity, but that's probably a surmountable obstacle. Could even be filled in after the fact if needed. But probably strong enough without.

Paul

 

[infinite monkey]

Ok here's my measurements off the 80's up bronco blocks I have. The only part thats been machined is the width. Taper angle measures 7degrees. Height at small end is 3/4" height at thick end is 1 1/4" Width is about 2 1/4" didnt want to go any skinnier as the side rails on the bottom are getting pretty thin. Couldnt find my unmachined set. So no pics of them. Also keep in mind I havent even tried to install these yet so actual fitment is unknown.

So this is the route I will go. A 7* taper will put me at about 2 1/2 to 3* off perfectly straight, which is way better than 10*.

Thank you for your help.