4G Mega Fuse Kit

[skerrybronco]

Are these still available some where

 

[DirtDonk]

We have the Mega-Fuse kits (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Battery_Charge_Cable_AMG_fused), and probably a few of the stock connectors still lying around, but not in a kit form like pictured with Weatherpack connectors to the rest of the harness.
Is that an old RJM bit? If so, have you contacted Ron Francis yet? Don't know if they continued all the stuff, but worth a call.

Of course, it's relatively easy to make all that too, with commonly available parts.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

We have the Mega-Fuse kits (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Battery_Charge_Cable_AMG_fused), and probably a few of the stock connectors still lying around, but not in a kit form like pictured with Weatherpack connectors to the rest of the harness.
Is that an old RJM bit? If so, have you contacted Ron Francis yet? Don't know if they continued all the stuff, but worth a call.

Of course, it's relatively easy to make all that too, with commonly available parts.

Good luck.

Paul

thanks Paul
I have been searching for parts to put together locally, but no luck.
even the starter wire, I installed the mini and wanted a longer wire, they only have black in pre made lengths, can't get red.
so for the fuse and fuse holder I will need to order on line, the 4G connector I am getting from Delconick
thanks again

 

[xcntrk]

I just used the WH kit Paul referenced, then bought a new Motorcraft pigtail for the 3g/4g. It's about $9 bucks...

 

[DirtDonk]

...I installed the mini and wanted a longer wire, they only have black in pre made lengths, can't get red.

Yeah, been noticing that around here myself. Guess the need for some lengths and gauges just isn't that large anymore.
We could probably make you a specific length in 6ga red if you just can't get someone to do it. Don't want to make promises I can't deliver of course, so I'd have to check, but in a pinch it could probably be done.
That 6ga would have plenty of capacity for a mini-starter. However, if you want larger there are companies, such as Wrangler Power Products, and some I can't remember right now that make custom lengths. Including out of welding cable if you prefer more flexibility in a smaller package.

I keep rolls of Black and Red 8ga and 2ga standard cable, and 6ga, 2ga and 1/0ga welding cable for just such circumstances. Has come in very handy over the past couple of years;D

Good luck.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

I just used the WH kit Paul referenced, then bought a new Motorcraft pigtail for the 3g/4g. It's about $9 bucks...

thanks
I seen the connectors on rock auto, but I get reamed shipping to canada, so
instead of paying double the cost of the product for shipping, I would rather support people from this site…….
nice set up you have, what is the painless wiring, another fuse holder??

 

[skerrybronco]

Yeah, been noticing that around here myself. Guess the need for some lengths and gauges just isn't that large anymore.
We could probably make you a specific length in 6ga red if you just can't get someone to do it. Don't want to make promises I can't deliver of course, so I'd have to check, but in a pinch it could probably be done.
That 6ga would have plenty of capacity for a mini-starter. However, if you want larger there are companies, such as Wrangler Power Products, and some I can't remember right now that make custom lengths. Including out of welding cable if you prefer more flexibility in a smaller package.

I keep rolls of Black and Red 8ga and 2ga standard cable, and 6ga, 2ga and 1/0ga welding cable for just such circumstances. Has come in very handy over the past couple of years;D

Good luck.

Paul

thanks again Paul
I will check out a local store tomorrow, hopefully they have good stuff, and after going back to the great technical library, I may try making some cable.

http://web.archive.org/web/20131229172903/http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=59

Do you guys recommend 6G for the alt
and 4G for the starter or 6G for both

Kerry

 

[skerrybronco]

also the store I talked to on the phone say they carry 100 or 130 amp fuses
should I start with the 100

 

[DirtDonk]

Either or. Typically the larger the better for the starter though. So while 6ga is sufficient for the newer style of starter (they take fewer amps to turn over the motor) I still go with the larger 4ga in a case like this. Such as when you have the choice because you're making your own.

Ford uses either 6ga or 4ga for the alternator charge wire, depending on the length of the run. For the length we're talking about here (less than 3'), like I said that 6ga is way more than enough for the charge wire. Sometimes there's no reason to go larger if it's going to just make routing it around the engine compartment that much harder.

That vague enough for 'ya?
If you're buying one size for ease and cost, go with 4ga all the way around and you'll have enough capacity for whatever may come, and can even run your alternator wire half-way round the engine compartment without over-taxing it!
If you feel that the 4ga will be harder for you to work with, the 6ga will still fill the bill.

If you do end up buying a setup like ours, specify USPS instead of UPS. I think that let's us ship it for just a few bucks even over the border. Maybe anyway. I know someone always tries to throw a wrench in the works when we ship north, but if it lets us, the shipping would probably be less than 15 bucks.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

also the store I talked to on the phone say they carry 100 or 130 amp fuses
should I start with the 100

Neither. Go with a 160 or similar rating. Anything below (or even at) the normal rating of the alternator will possibly blow the fuse just under normal use. Even a standard rebuild or replacement aftermarket 4G can put out 140-150 amps. Seen it plenty of times on their test cards that come in the box with some brands. Even though you won't use that much power under most circumstances, you can see how it would blow a lowly 100 amp fuse pretty easily if it was ever put under load.
You're not protecting it from itself after all. Just from an overload or short-circuit. So a 150, 160 or even a 175 would be fine.

Paul

 

[xcntrk]

nice set up you have, what is the painless wiring, another fuse holder??

It's a Painless chassis harness which has it's own dedicated master fuse.

 

[skerrybronco]

Neither. Go with a 160 or similar rating. Anything below (or even at) the normal rating of the alternator will possibly blow the fuse just under normal use. Even a standard rebuild or replacement aftermarket 4G can put out 140-150 amps. Seen it plenty of times on their test cards that come in the box with some brands. Even though you won't use that much power under most circumstances, you can see how it would blow a lowly 100 amp fuse pretty easily if it was ever put under load.
You're not protecting it from itself after all. Just from an overload or short-circuit. So a 150, 160 or even a 175 would be fine.

Paul

thanks again Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

If you need any cables made check with your local marine supplier most of them make custom cables. Boats use lengths of battery cables unheard of in the automotive world.

 

[skerrybronco]

Good to know
Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

It's a Painless chassis harness which has it's own dedicated master fuse.

I prefer using the Maxi-Fuse holders now too. The first time I did a Painless harness (in an FJ40) I realized how clean and simple that way was, so I bought a bunch of them, along with a selection of different rated fuses, and use them in most installs now instead of the traditional fusible-link.

Not that fusible links aren't just fine in most cases (other than what Ron Francis says that is!), and the factory used them to good effect. And if you want your wiring to look more stock, a hidden fusible-link is the way to go.
However, in thinking ahead I wondered how much easier it would be simply replace a blown fuse rather than try to bypass a fubarred fusible-link on the side of the trail in the middle of nowhereland.

It's not as cheap when you get the nice ones with the covers like xcntrk is using, but it qualified as cheap-insurance in my book. And you can get Maxi-Fuses at most any auto parts store these days.
Painless typically uses 60 amp, but the fuses come in lots of flavors if you need, just like other regular blade-type fuses do.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

I prefer using the Maxi-Fuse holders now too. The first time I did a Painless harness (in an FJ40) I realized how clean and simple that way was, so I bought a bunch of them, along with a selection of different rated fuses, and use them in most installs now instead of the traditional fusible-link.

Not that fusible links aren't just fine in most cases (other than what Ron Francis says that is!), and the factory used them to good effect. And if you want your wiring to look more stock, a hidden fusible-link is the way to go.
However, in thinking ahead I wondered how much easier it would be simply replace a blown fuse rather than try to bypass a fubarred fusible-link on the side of the trail in the middle of nowhereland.

It's not as cheap when you get the nice ones with the covers like xcntrk is using, but it qualified as cheap-insurance in my book. And you can get Maxi-Fuses at most any auto parts store these days.
Painless typically uses 60 amp, but the fuses come in lots of flavors if you need, just like other regular blade-type fuses do.

Paul

Thanks again Paul

I ended up getting a bunch of stuff more audio than anything,
but I have read here some people have used it.
I will make my cables and insulate them with the tubes of shrink tube
the fuse holder is a bit spacey though….

 

[Steve83]

You can pick up the whole assembly at virtually any JY for a few bucks.

 

[skerrybronco]

You can pick up the whole assembly at virtually any JY for a few bucks.

Thanks for the input, I will phone around

 

[PaveBronco]

I pulled mine from a local Pick N pull pretty much most late model Fords should have what you need.

 

[DirtDonk]

Those are Mega-Fuse holders you're talking about. Yes, that's what this discussion was started on, but we were discussing the Maxi-Fuse just then, which is the smaller rated one that looks like a standard blade-type fuse on steroids.
Both have their places of course, but for protecting the main circuits in the cabin and the fuse panels, you don't usually need more than a 10ga wire and a 60 amp Maxi. And most EB's could probably get by on a 40 amp fuse for that matter.

Still, there are Maxi holders in the junkyard as well, but most that I've seen were part of the large "power centers" on modern cars and trucks with the maxi and regular fuses, as well as relays and such. Lots of good stuff at a junkyard!
Then again, if all you're looking for is a $15 Maxi holder and fuse to take the place of your original fusible link after if blows (or before it blows) because fixing it blows(!) you have to factor in your driving time, entrance fees and hassle into the price of a JY part. It can be fun though...

Paul