• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Body Bushing Question

lsukevinc

Full Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
203
Loc.
Holly Springs
The majority of my body mount bushings look shot like the one in the picture. I plan to order a set this week and begin the challenge to change then out. I am curious, since I have a body lift, anyone ever completely remove them mount the body lift directly between the body and the body mount? Not that I plan to do it, I am more curious. Hopefully the new bushings will help my door alignment problems.

20150418_115727_zpsfzzkrz4s.jpeg
 

Whoaa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
1,059
I am curious, since I have a body lift, anyone ever completely remove them mount the body lift directly between the body and the body mount? QUOTE]

^..........I'm trying to understand what this means.

Yes, there are bushings between the frame and the body at each mount location. And in your pic there are body lift spacers. Over the years I have seen a "body lift" made from all types of different things...some good, some not.

The door alingment issue won't be solved by installing new body bushings, but your on the right track. At one time the doors were probably perfectly aligned, then someone installed a body lift and didn't put the shims back.

In your pic, it is easy to see the bushing & block are NOT sitting square to the mounting surface.

To get nicely aligned doors you need to shim the body in different mounting locations, using different height shims until everything lines up nicely. Often times this takes great patients and some fit-n-try steps of what shims seems to help and which ones don't.
 

Crawdad

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
3,635
Whoa is right. When you install new bushings expect to throw everything out of whack. You should be lucky and not have to cut he bolts off like most of us are having to do. Buying new bushings will get you back to square and that's a good position to be in. Do one at a time and follow directions. The bushings only go so far before they bottom out. Once you bottom out stop! Good luck!
 
OP
OP
L

lsukevinc

Full Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
203
Loc.
Holly Springs
I am curious, since I have a body lift, anyone ever completely remove them mount the body lift directly between the body and the body mount? QUOTE]

^..........I'm trying to understand what this means.
What I intended to say was mount the body lift "puck" directly onto the frame mount without a rubber bushing between the body mount and the body lift "puck". Has any one ever done this, or is the bushing required below the body lift?
 

matts460

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
583
I get what your sayin but I doubt anybody has done that and the closest thing to it would be poly bushings. I would have to say think about what that rubber bushing is doing and what the frame does when driving off road of any kind. And how that would effect the body tub. I think solid mounting could be done but with a full roll cage that is tied to the frame front to back. That would be one rigid body structure! Would be great if you were road racing it. lol
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,919
I am curious, since I have a body lift, anyone ever completely remove them mount the body lift directly between the body and the body mount? QUOTE]

^..........I'm trying to understand what this means.
What I intended to say was mount the body lift "puck" directly onto the frame mount without a rubber bushing between the body mount and the body lift "puck". Has any one ever done this, or is the bushing required below the body lift?

Nah...
But consider WH 1" body lift. It uses a really thick poly bushing instead of a seperate spacer.
Since most of us have pretty smashed body bushings the WH 1" body lift bushings tend to be 1.5" over what we started with.
If 1.5" is enough for you it is a nice way to go. Body lift and bushings in one kit. Only about a hundred bucks.
 

suthernboy

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
422
Loc.
Greenville, NC
What I intended to say was mount the body lift "puck" directly onto the frame mount without a rubber bushing between the body mount and the body lift "puck". Has any one ever done this, or is the bushing required below the body lift?

If the puck is the hard plastic or phenolic type that would not be a good idea. There needs to be some cushioning (rubber or poly) for vibration isolation.
 

savage

Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,483
Loc.
Renton
DON'T JUST USE THE BODY LIFT. You think the bronco is a ruff ride now, eliminate the rubber bushings and you'll feel everything through the body lift.
 

suthernboy

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
422
Loc.
Greenville, NC
DON'T JUST USE THE BODY LIFT. You think the bronco is a ruff ride now, eliminate the rubber bushings and you'll feel everything through the body lift.

And not only YOU will feel it....all the dash components...gauge cluster, switches, radio, etc. and also all your lights will feel it too! None of those things are separately isolated against vibration.
 

Unknown

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
695
WH 1" Body Lift should look something like this when installed and it's a poly bushing which absorbs vibration.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 261

sxr800

New Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2013
Messages
28
Poly bushings are great but for the body mounts I'm going to use rubber. Not scientific at all but by touch poly is very dense and almost hard. I'm sure there is different grades but I think the rubber might have a better cushioning and vibration ( preventing ) affect.
No way would I ever go straight body to frame without rubber or poly.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,619
I'm sure rubber must have that property too, but I've never been able to tell the difference between rubber and poly from a driver's perspective. In my DD Bronco and almost-DD F350, changing to poly body mounts and other isolation bushings (springs, radius arms, trackbar, etc.) never resulted in any undue harshness.

It was probably there, but even my sometimes over-sensitive butt could not detect it.

Paul
 

Bronco Bobby

New Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
31
Loc.
Hemet Ca
Looking for bolt size and directions for a wild horses 1" body lift. Package had washers only no bolts or nuts and on their website someone's review talked about where to use a smaller washer. I think it was the front but not sure. Any help would be appreciated, as I what to hit the hardware store first thing in the morning. Thanks in advance
 

Bronco Bobby

New Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
31
Loc.
Hemet Ca
Never mind to the above question. I found the bolts and directions in a separate bag under some suspension parts in my delivery box.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,619
OP
OP
L

lsukevinc

Full Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
203
Loc.
Holly Springs
I swapped out my passenger side body mounts last night. It turns out they are the original ford mounts. The bronco had a restoration in 2007, but I guess the previous owner never changed them out.

Currently, the bronco has a 2" body lift. I have a 302 with a edelbrock intake and 600 cfm carb. Can I get by with only 1" of body lift? I really don't like the look of a body lift, but do not want to cut my hood either.
body%20mount_zps1jpbzqdc.jpeg
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,619
If it's a Performer manifold (and not one of the taller ones) you can get away with NO body lift if you want. You'd need a stock, or other very low profile air cleaner, but it's very workable in most cases.
But a 1" does make it just that much easier. And better for other future mods as well, including transmission swaps and such.

Not to mention making things like starter changes a tiny bit easier.

Paul
 
OP
OP
L

lsukevinc

Full Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
203
Loc.
Holly Springs
If it's a Performer manifold (and not one of the taller ones) you can get away with NO body lift if you want. You'd need a stock, or other very low profile air cleaner, but it's very workable in most cases.
But a 1" does make it just that much easier. And better for other future mods as well, including transmission swaps and such.

Not to mention making things like starter changes a tiny bit easier.

Paul

exactly what I was hoping for. thank you. I have an aftermarket large tank but I see the previous owner has a piece of wood in between the tank and the bed already.
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,300
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
.. Sorry I don't read well .. So I bypassed several post.. But I think if you set the body down on the Solid Frame mount you'd have more SQUEAKS. Than a stock Bronco.
.........
......
 
Top